Not gonna be in conventions this year. Maybe next. My Martial arts Buddy (Sephiroth in the skit) and I are planning a good light saber fight some day. We did a light saber “Dynasty Warriors” vs “Star Wars: Obi Wan” skit at San Diego Comic Con a few years back (I’m the dude in the Red outfit):
[media=youtube]Vp8btG12hH8[/media]
If I look fat in the red outfit, it’s cuz there’s tons of layers to the costume. Looks like some ppl thought I was a fat n short Sun Ce. Lol, oh well. But next time we want to do strictly Star Wars characters. =)
:rock:
Turned out great! The purple ball top fits very well. Damn… I want to order more seimitsu stuff!
Thanks! I still have the huge styrofoam sword. That was pretty fun to wield around, lol.
The only qualm I had is with my art work, which is probably more kinko’s than anything. There’s all of a sudden a lot of yellow by sakuras fireball, which kind of has me =.
I checked the pdf’s i sent on 3 monitors and couldnt find these variances in white-yellow on them.
Oh well.
Waiting on some parts from infamous and gamingnow to finish it up, but im happy so far,
arthong definitely a++++
Hey Art, do you have any tips for printing at Kinko’s? I remember you saying something about Kinko’s printing either too dark or too light, or something of the sort. I’m going to send my artwork over to them tomorrow.
Hmmm, sorry i didn’t catch the color variance at kinkos buddy. There are oddities with kinkos at times where say it shows up blue on screen, but comes out purple. When I have a stack of artwork to print, unfortunately I sometimes don’t catch all of that. I can notice if the background turns into a completely different color, or something that really catches my eye. But my bad I didn’t catch yours.
Unfortunately kinkos can be limited from time to time. But I still prefer them to be my primary printer mainly because I’m cool with a few ppl there and they won’t ever get on my case about copyright issues like other places might.
Yeah, in my experience they tend to come out a bit darker. Most cases I apply some extra brightness to the art I submit which helps counter that to some point. but if it turns out bad, you can always ask them to print again until it comes out good. They will help you reprint until it turns out right, or come damn close to it. Of course, this is hoping the kinkos ppl at your area aren’t dicks. My experience with most Kinkos has been great 90% of the time. The 10% had a chick who didn’t give a damn and was annoyed that I wanted some reprinted, and another had a manager who actually questioned me on the copyrights. But it was submitted online and it was already printed, so too bad for him. I just don’t go to those kinkos again and find one that works.
And as noted above, there could be some color variances to make note. It’s just strange that way =P.
Oh, and also give your artwork a bit more of a bleed on the edges. Meaning if you’ve aligned it exactly to the TE template, make sure there’s a little extra picture to the edges. Printers can give a slight variance and shrink the overall image just a tiny tiny bit. But if you have it exactly to the size and shape of the TE template (which also isn’t exact by itself), the two variances will make notable size differences when cutting it out.
This is why I get headaches when people submit art that’s only available with the TE outlines and such. It’s not their fault that’s the only image they can find… but I end up needing to explain that it won’t be an exact cut, and I have to work extra hard to position the laser’s start point so the cut limits the extra edges and evens it out. Ok… I’m just rambling now, lol.
No problem man, the plexi is definitely the core of this purchase and worth it. I can always change the artwork and once the plexi went on a lot of the yellow kind of blended in to the white. It’s so nice to not have my wrists resting only on that bezel now
in pics the plexi def shows up better on a darker background, but i took some better ones than earlier
Hey, I was just wondering. if you were unable to get the SE working, would you consider making a print and lamilable + cut service available? Your cutter totally rocks and I’d like to get some really clean artwork for my fiancee’s SE. Of course, I’d gladly be willing to pay an upcharge for the time and excellent service.
PS. reason im asking is, I tried to do one for her with xacto blade and nearly cut off my finge while messing up the thing really bad.
I remember back in my graphics art class a kid cut his finger down to the bone with one :looney:
I placed my order just yesterday, excited to make my TE look nicer.
Also I have a question, how difficult is it to put snap-ins through them? I’m so scared about applying too much force and I don’t even have anything yet :lol:
Snap ins dont actually snap all the way, but they do fit snug. Also, i’d recommend using extreme caution taking them in and out. don’t just force em out like one might do on other panels.
an awesome trick i feel is worth mentioning is to wrap a layer of teflon tape around your snap in buttons. it’ll protect the plastic it snaps into and makes them fit nice and snug and perfect. i haven’t recieved the plexi yet but it did wonders for my hrap3. teflon tape is super cheap and is totally worth it.
that is nice. did you get a custom plexi? i tried taking out the bezel and realized there is a gap from the indent made for the bezel but your plexi seem a bit bigger and fitted into the groove than the normal size TE front template
I was able to fit my snap in buttons all the way till the side tabs popped back out, even the 24mm ones. I found the best way is to apply even pressure across the whole button as you are putting it in, doesn’t put as much point pressure on the plexi, thus less chance of cracking it imo (Art correct me if I am wrong)
Edit: I also took the original black art off of my EX, so that probably helped.
I have that gap, but it’s better than that bezel to me. I hate that cheap plastic thing. That and the cord compartment door. Both can be tossed in the trash.
Hey, I was wondering if it’s possible to order a plexiglass without the hole where the turbo switches are. I have the HRAP1 version 1.
Also, I have the Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons. Can I use the Artwork Print and Cut (regular service) or do I have to use the one with the Seimitsu Sized Cutouts? I’m a newb in terms of button sizes.
