Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Yep, I forgot he was new. To clearify I ment that the it isn’t difficult to rj45 the mc cthuhlu, just realy frustrating.

Thanks for the encouragement! I got a new Pro Cable from Jasen’s Customs, and that seems to have been the problem! Just played a bunch with the new cable and everything seems to be in good working order :smiley:

(maaaan he’s in Japan now – deployed perhaps? – and shipping takes forevah to the US)

1 Like

Is there any way to make a IL eurostick feel like the IL compact joystick or would I be better of like for a new old stock compact joystick?

Far as I know, No.
For example the Shaft in the Eurostick is shorter than the Compact.

What about the Compact are you trying to replicate? The shaft length has to do with the Compact actuator being able to be flipped for 4 way or 8 way use.

Ohh, hey you’re on here now, that’s pretty cool. Are you saying there’s more difference then just the switches?

I’ve been here I just lurk. The Compact actuator is designed to be flipped so it can act as an 8 way or 4 way. The Compact actuator is round vs the Eurostick square actuator, and the spacing and location of the switches is different due to the point of actuation from the lever as well.

Levered switches on a Eurostick, like on the Compact, would mean most likely a custom switch plate and new actuator.

1 Like

So I guess I’m looking at either trying the magnetic joystick or buying used.

Just curious why do you want levered switches in there? It can certainly be done, I’m just curious.

Have a few questions.

  1. Should you remove the dark blue gate on the LS-32, if you want a square gate? I’m wondering, because the light blue gate undernearth is already a square gate, and the dark blue one is “open” to one of its sides so I wonder whether this influences the feel of the stick to that side.

  1. Is it worth trying out different springs, a Kowal actuator or an octogonal gate on the JLF? Does the octo gate suit non-fighting games better? I have many sticks with JLF’s, so wouldn’t mind having different setups.

  2. Does Sanwa still make OBSN-30RG buttons or have they been discontinued? Are there any European webshops selling OBSN-30RG or OBSF-30RG buttons? I found them on akishop.jp, but would rather avoid paying the import tax.

  3. How do Seimitsu PS-14-G buttons compare with PS-14-GN buttons? Exactly the same aside from the way you mount them? I read some old threads on SRK, but found conflicting info.

Thanks SRK :wink:

The open gate has higher sides except where it meets the 2 way gate, that does effect the feel I like mine better with it on but sometimes they do get installed without it like in the Sega hss-0130 so feel free to try it and see if you like it better without the gate.

1 Like

The Subgate (the dark blue plastic) on it’s current 4 way selection does not get away with anything.
The other two selections would, one would restrict your access to corners, which is necessary in some old arcade games like Donkey Kong or Pac Man. The 3rd is a 2 way, used in a rare few old Arcade titles. You can also remove the sub gate completely (make sure you put back the two retainign screws)

Springs are relatively cheap, so why not. Thing about arcade parts is you don’t know how something is like till you try it for yourself. Like I tested out a dozen of so mods, optional parts, aftermarket parts and configurations till I was certain that I hated the Sanwa JLF. Nothing to me make a JLF not feel like a JLF, but that is me. Your own experiences and preferences will not reflect mine.

I want to say no, but there enough still out on the market if you want some new, you can still find them.
Paradise Arcade sells Sanwa OBSF-30RG and Sanwa OBSN-30RG buttons.

Your Seimitsu PS-14-G buttons use the same size switch as the Sanwa OBSF 30mm.
The Seimitsu switches are a bit stiffer, I find that the Sanwa OBSF buttons take too light of a touch.
PS-14-GN have a physically larger switch and take a put more force to push. Something you want to factor in. How do your own touch handle with push buttons, you wish they require less or more force.

Best advice for arcade parts out there, especially if you don’t have to pay a dime to try it out.

Does this grip have a proper name?

Sorry if it’s hard to tell but shaft goes between middle finger and pinky.

I ain’t saying I use the no homo grip, lol. I actually use my thumb btw.

Hey there! I picked up one of the beautiful old Namco PS1 sticks (the gray one with the yellow top and buttons, ca 1996) and the joystick feels, for lack of a better term, crunchy.

Does it maybe need a new spring? Or does it need lubricant?

If I were to replace the spring in an old Namco Arcade Stick, what kind of spring would it take?

Thanks a bunch for any guidance, y’alls are the best :smiley:

Dismantle the joystick and thoroughly clean it with iso alcohol (including the microswitches), then apply a fresh layer of lubricant to the pivot - silicone is best. Reassemble and test again.

1 Like

I’ve been in the market to get my wife an arcade stick for a while now, and since she uses a southpaw layout (reversed buttons and stick position), it’s been really hard to find something that meets her needs and will allow her to play instead of using a Dual Shock 4 pad. She’s also looking for a stick model that has the L3/R3 and the Options and all that on top of the panel, not in the front like on a Panzer.

Got any suggestions?

South paw with L3 and R3, that a tough one.
Modded TE with a butterjo cable door replacment