Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

looks like Jasen’s has the southpaw panel for the TE2. Now I gotta find a TE2 …

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Dont pay too much for it, alot of scalpers on eBay overcharging.
I say 150 to 200 is a fair price. Although I am sure if you look harder you can find cheaper than $150

I have one I’m watching that’s at 150, I might check my FB group for the area the seller lives in and see if I can find him/her and ask if they wouldn’t mind a local pickup if they can skip shipping.

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I’m sure you could get an afs case made that way, it might be custom order though.

It’s not always that easy (i am not sure they do their metal work in house or do they outsource their work) sometimes custom metal panel layouts come with a R&D cost of designing and planning the new panel. I split with people before for a custom panel or metal stick case just because of the Added R&D costs

You know what, I think I’m fine with saying I use the no homo grip now.

anyone got template for the venom multiformat stick? preferably psd but pdf is fine.

  1. Can metal primer weaken epoxy?

  2. Is JB Weld interchangeable with any steel-strength epoxy?

  3. Will a JB Weld patch support a control panel array? (like 4-5 16mm buttons?

Instead of going with an unknown, why not use automobile epoxy?

Using this stuff, I tried to patch without using a backing metal and it cracked but I’d also experimented with sanding it flush on both sides like an idiot.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07VYSZYXH?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I’m gonna need to drill button holes in afterward so I need something that can stand up to pressure without dropping out (planning to remodel some hori sticks but drop the plastic function button plates)

@Double_Draggin

Sorry it took me a while, but I had to do some research first.

I think this is the JB weld product you want

It can be used to repair automotive work, so I think it can handle an arcade panel without much issue.

The product I have seems similar, thank you - I’m actually contemplating using plastic for this patch since it’ll be housing pushbuttons and I don’t have metalworking tools

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I’m trying to make the leap into padhacking. My goal is to use the PCB from the MK-1627 6-button Genesis arcade stick, and wire up some standard Japanese parts to it. I’m hoping someone can fill me on some details I’ve never picked up.

Here’s the board, for reference. Everything’s pretty clearly labeled. The stuff in the middle is the turbo switches, as you can see on the stick here. But I’m pretty clueless about this stuff, as I’ve only ever worked with screw terminal PCBs like the PS360+, which are more or less idiot-proofed for people like me. So I don’t know how to determine exactly where I should be soldering to - is it going to be those black bits just under where the buttons sit, like this? If so, do I need to scrape something off first? Is it going to be the little copper(?) circles those traces lead to, like this? For that last one, I followed the traces and circled the copper that appears to be on that same line. How do I figure out where my ground wire/wires should be soldered to, and whether I can daisy chain all the grounds together? Also, do I need to worry about whatever that white tape-looking stuff is around the directions? It doesn’t seem like I could get an X-Acto knife under it to remove it or anything.

I feel like knowing how to use a multimeter would help. But I don’t know what I would set the dial to (assuming I used a cheap one like this), or which of the three plugs on the unit the two prongs should be going into. Or what I should see on the screen if the points I’m touching are actually correct ground and signal points.

I know this is a lot. I appreciate anyone who even reads all this, let alone answers any of it. Thanks.

Set the multimeter to diode test, and look for continuity. You want all your buttons to have a shared common.

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That helps a lot, thank you.

What’s the difference between monitors used for FPS games and fighting games? Don’t FPS players want lagless monitors too? If so then why aren’t those monitors also recommended for fighting games? If they are, what are some good recent/new ones?

Are there any ultrawides that are good for fighting games? Obviously fighting games don’t support 21:9, but I don’t mind the black bars. I’d just like to have a monitor that fits all.

Motion blur is a pain on FPS as you lose details, it is not critical in Fighting games.
Both need low lag, low latency, but fighting games are usually locked into 60 or sometimes 30 hz while alot of PC FPS games have frame rates in the 140 hz or higher range (even if the display does not support this). Games that lock at 30 fps is going to have motion blur, even some 60fps games have this issue.

A Monitor that just does low latency are no longer that hard to find or expensive. You can get a low lag 1080p Ben Q monitor now for under $100 on amazon. But that entry level Ben Q is only supports 60hz, and you want to do better for non-fighter competitive games like FPS. For PC gaming you want a 144hz or higher refresh on your display. Not making out distant objects because of motion blur can get you killed in games like CS GO, Overwatch or even PUBG (which happens that PUBG supports 144hz refresh on PC).

Now if you are a console player, none of this matters at the moment, as none of the consoles on the market do more than 60hz, hell consoles still are struggling to keep a smooth 60 hz at 1080, so forget 4k. I don’t think the PS5 and what ever the Next Xbox is called can deliver smooth 60hz at 1080.

I am not sure at the moment of any particular models I would suggest. There are a few out there, I just can’t recall what out there and if they are available at the moment.

I feel for the price the sweet spot is a 16:9 1440p monitor with a 144 refresh.
And you want it to support VRR (variable refresh rate), usually FreeSync or GSync to avoid screen tearing. For the Price a FreeSync monitor that’s Gsync compatible.

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I’m looking for a new fightstick pro cable but it seems Jensen’s custom creations is no longer available. Any suggestions to other cables on the market or at least compatible with the 5 pin connector. (Gx12-5 I believe)

best bet these days is to make your own. the pinout for the connector that madcatz uses is documented here Know How: The Mad Catz Pro Cable its different from razer’s. i think jasen has a video for the razer version

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anyone have a wiring diagram for a diy socd cleaner? an old thread from 2011 had them but the image links are dead