Total newbie here when it comes to modding my stick, but I was wondering if there was a way to prevent the shaft to not rotate? I was curious because I think my fingers could grip the ball a little better if it’s not spinning while I’m trying to do fast movements. If not that’s alright, it doesn’t bother much a crazy amount.
The other day I dropped my stick and now my PC doesn’t recognize the right direction. I’m assuming it shorted? I swapped the microswitches with my old stick, and then that one didn’t recognize the left direction.
What are the chances both of them are bad and it’s not my actual PCB that shorted? I wish I could test out the old stick, but it’s a PS3 SF4 TE1 and PCs don’t recognize it.
New microswitch board is only $10, but jw before I order one.
The only way I can think of doing this would be to cut the signal line to that switch in such a way you can ground it to test it then re-splice it. I’d honestly just get a new switch board
Nah, the shaft is held in place by a spring and retainer, but in such a way that it can spin freely.
It never “spins freely” man. It just turns with a constant resistance (assuming you’re not tilting it and leaving it at neutral ) but as soon as you release your hand it stops turning immediately. I don’t call that spinning freely. A bike wheel spins freely when putting the bike upside down for revision, or simply when lifting said wheel above the ground enough so it doesn’t touch it then giving it a push… but take a JLF shaft , it’s spring loaded so the axial loading will brake any attempt to make it free spin. The more you add preload (with aftermarket harder springs) the more resistance you’ll feel while turning the shaft on its own axis. Btw, if you pull up the JLF shaft vertically, it adds even more axial load if you try to turn it on its own axis .
There no real way to keep a stick from rotating.
Some flight style joysticks dont rotate but they have a specially shape actuator for this task
Their shafts are designed for a flight handle grip and not a ball top so you cant just transfer parts over.
I’m having a crisis of spring tension. I’ve been using a hori hayabusa optical with n LS-32/40 spring and it’s worked perfect for almost 3 years, but I’ve started messing around with 3rd strike and decided to try the optical stock hayabusa spring which is heavier than the LS-32/40 spring. The stock spring feels snappier but not as smooth as the LS-32/40 spring because of the increased tension. I’d like some advice on going to a heavier spring from a lighter one from players who have done it, what are the benefits besides the faster neutral. Thanks.
edit: Any spring recommendations that would replicate the hori mechanical hayabusa tension? I just tried the mechanical hayabusa spring in the optical and without the switches it feels too loose, the tension feels good with the mechanical switches.
Edit 2: I tried the stock spring for a while and don’t like it it’s too stiff and wears my fingers out it feels nothing like the mechanical hayabusa. The LS-32/40 spring feels like the hayabusa without the switches, I definitely prefer the LS-32/40 spring.
Is this a good case to an Eurojoystick? Why do you us choose I.L Eurojoystick or I.L. Magnetic?
PD: I remember when i was a chil that telemach use I.L. Telemach 2000 and their Joystick are heavy springs
Hey guys ive got a question related to superguns.
If you were to ground pin9 in a db15 wired stick, could it do harm to whatever consolized cps it would get connected to?
Reason i ask this is because blissbox dev ulao is looking into supporting db15 wired sticks and requiring the stick to have said pin grounded would allow auto detection.
My dumb question here is what i should look for Led’s for pthe crown SDB-202c buttons i see holes for leds but honestly i don’t know what i should buy since the Paradise Kaimana J2 RGB LED probably won’t fit the big base under the button. Any input would be great.
Looking at the standard 15 pin used in most Superguns, Pin 9 is unused
Hope that helps.
The Crown/Samducksa SDB-202 buttons uses Cherry MX switches, and most Cherry keyboard switches has space for a 3mm LED. The Paradise Kaimana J2 RGB LED will not fit as it was never intended for this button.
Trying to mount a LS-62 into a Qanba Carbon shell.
Already tried the SS plate, the Kowal Universal Mount, and the VF Plate with little to no success.
What plate would you use to mount an LS-62 (and I guess a LS-58) into the Qanba Carbon?
I’m thinking I’ll try this once it becomes available: https://focusattack.com/seimitsu-ls-58-se-flat-mounting-plate-p-40/
It mentions the ‘Qanba™ Q4RAF’ which I’m guessing will be similar to the Carbon.
I recommend this, as it would mount the same as a Sanwa Plate
or this
Hmmm…thanks. That might actually work. The main issue with the KOWAL one was that I couldn’t mount it horizontally and the hole on the top of the plate left the epoxy exposed to dust or whatever.
Hello srk bros. So, I got a seimitsu stick today. I’m trying it out. I have a sanwa, but I thought it was to loose for me. My question is can i just use the same wiring harness from the sanwa i already have?
Update: I used the same harness, everything works. Cheers 
Which arcade sticks have the universal mount for the S plate (LS-32)? ty
What you are trying to mount too.
Also look into the Universal mount plate on Parades Arcade
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Ah, I think this is what you’re referring to, nice! Unfortunately it’s out of stock but this looks like the winner. Been out of the arcade stick game for a bit, this is a cool plate - https://paradisearcadeshop.com/home/controls/accessories-parts/mounting-plates/paradise-arcade/1278_universal-s-arcade-joystick-adapter-plate?search_query=Universal+mount+plat&results=278
Where can I find a replacement USB cable for the Qanba Drone? I’ve found these:
https://arcadeshock.com/products/qanba-replacement-usb-cable-for-obsidian-q3?_pos=7&_sid=b4b6f562a&_ss=r
But I’m not sure if they’re compatible with the Drone.