Using one padhack and one legit full Classic Controller gets me usable gameplay on both in FBA, but the FBA menu is still unsable on either device (can move the selection, but can’t confirm/cancel anything)
Using just the padhack on its own (even just one of them), nothing works gameplay-wise, but I can bring up the FBA menu, can move the cursor, but can’t confirm/cancel anything.
Haha, no worries.
My situation is kind of a very specific/niche issue.
On that topic, what’s the best way to test all the functionality of a Wii Classic Controller?
Something that’ll let me test the 4 directions, 6 digital buttons, 2 analog buttons + clicker (preferably with indications on the two, separately), 3 auxiliary buttons, and both analog sticks (mainly whether or not they’re centered).
Is there a game that covers all that functionality? My brother recommended Smash Bros Wii-U.
Another little update on testing, this time on the Wii-U with Smash Bros Wii-U:
All the digital inputs work fine
The cursor isn’t moving all over, so I’m taking that to mean that my Left-analog is neutralized
The character wasn’t Smashing in-game, so I’m taking that to mean that my Right-analog is neutralized
The analog triggers appeared to be working fine when compared to the behavior of a standard Classic Controller
At this point I’m totally out of ideas. I might just leave them as-is, and call it done and leave it only for SNES-games on the SNES Classic, or Wii/Wii-U games.
Hey Brooks will be releasing the Brooks wireless pcb soon and I plan to dual mod this particular stick in this video, Qanba Crystal. https://youtu.be/iCApeTpF-yw I figured out most of the wiring part. However, how can I tap into the “dome switches” on the Crystal’s pcb? Time stamp; 17:00 . Looks like I could solder wires to the ( T )test points for the dome switches right? I see some test points for the Touch pad in which you made a diagram for BUT how can I wire the Brooks Wireless pcb touch pad functionality to the Crystal’s touch pad which uses a 7pin ribbon cable? Also, I would have to wire “ground” and “power” from the Brooks wireless to the Crystal’s PCB right? If so so do I route wire to the Crystal’s pcb “USB” “ground” and “power”?? https://www.focusattack.com/brook-ps3-ps4-switch-wireless-fight-board/
So I need a bit of help figuring out these two ground wires on my Qanba Crystal.
VCC|D-|D+|GNDS|GND or
VCC|D-|D+|GND|SGND
So would it be GNDS or SGND? Does it stand for GROUND SIGNAL or SIGNAL GROUND? Or SOUND instead of SIGNAL. This stick doesn’t have SOUND HOWEVER it has a cut-out to add a jack or toggle switch and a
SGND is shield ground, the metal shielding for your USB cable gets twisted/connected to a wire and soldered to that spot, its connected to to GND on the board.
This is actually very common in most sticks, you want the shielding to be grounded so it can ground out any interference.
@darksakul, right so it’ll be the GND wire that SGND is connected to? I posted a picture of the Qanba Crystal pcb where said USB cable/wires connects. You can see the labels on the right hand side.
Addendum: oh it’s connected to GND, right? If that’s the case than I can splice both wires when I route them to corresponding points on the Brooks Wireless Board.
It actually dawned on me that my testing might have been flawed.
If I recall correctly, Nintendo consoles tend to re-center/re-calibrate analog sticks on-plug-in. That is, whatever the position the analog stick is in when you plug it into the console, that position is considered as center/(0,0), and everything else is relative to that.
This means that even if my analog sticks are NOT neutralized correctly, I would never be able to tell, because on-plugin, the console would’ve considered it to be “centered”, and as long as I never moved the stick (which I can’t, since it’s not there anymore), I’d never get a response from them.
Gotta check when I get home to see if I still have those analog sticks; maybe I’ll test by resoldering them in and seeing if I’m still having issues with FBA on the SNES Classic.
@darksakul, I have two Qanba Crystals so I just swapped the pcb but I’d like to have a working one as a back up. Is there anyone here that could repair the turbo function as well as (possible) 2 shorted LED bulbs on the pcb? I one LED is for TURBO and the other one is for one of the LED function mode indicator
Im in the process of building a barcade for my daughter and plan on using a retro pie setup. My question is about a “usb” pcb that connects to a jama harness. In the product description it says it works with the raspberry pie, I personally wanted to see if any members here has experience using this product? Can this product register both players through the raspberry pie via one usb cable into the raspberry pie?
Jamma Interface to to USB PC Joystick with audio amplifier PCB for MAME or Hyperspin
Gamepad emulation, works with Raspberry PI
Connect your jamma harness, buttons and switches to your PC
Requires USB A to A cable.
Sound Output through RCA Mini plug eliminated the need to wire in amplifier and speakers
Volume Control
Before purchasing this my main concern is; does this really work on the rasberry pie & can it support 2 players at the same time through one usb from pcb into one usb port in the raspberry pie?
This has a built in amplifier for cabnet speakers and a pot to adjust volume. (Anyone who has used this), does it experience high static noise during silent opperation?
That sums up everything i need to know so if anyone can shed some insight to this product id appriciate it very much! This setup will allow me to easily switch my jama harness to other products like pandoras box or any jama game setups! Thanks for everyones time.