Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

So basically I should take an ethernet cable and splice it into a usb-B cable; and when you talk about the 4 usb lines corresponding to the console port, are saying to make sure that when I splice the wires together, make sure that the 4 lines from the USB-B go into the same slots on the in the ethernet passthrough that the cord going to the console are wired to?

I.E. make sure that if on the (going to the console) cord is wired to the first 4 slots on the RJ45 port, make sure I splice the correct wires to those same slots?

Yeah. Youā€™re running the G, V, D+ and D- lines through a series of male and female connectors to the console. So long as they form the same electrical circuit as a standard USB cable, youā€™re golden. You could even crimp them for JST and use the header on the Brook if youā€™ve got a presoldered board.

Alright dope. Thanks a ton!

IL is the go to for regularly available American parts, right? I recently bought a Pelican real arcade stick and Iā€™m going to guess that the stock parts are terrible so just looking for the best replacement parts.

Yes IL is the brand to go with, not Suzo-Happ.

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Cool, thanks.

By any chance does someone have a PCB Diagram for the SFIV PS3 PCB?

Then I suggest donā€™t put opinions up as facts.
That is just as bad as putting up false information.

Also when did you say you were using such as your are disabled. I donā€™t remember that being established in the conversation.

ā€œErgonomicā€ is design language/marketing speak for curved/split keyboards, dude. I was just trying to find a word a new user would understandā€¦ clarifying stuff like this takes a second, maybe I could have used a different word, but was it really worth this, lol? Ideally weā€™d have Sega 2p retail sticks.

It doesnā€™t matter if Iā€™m disabled, you never know who is or whoā€™s going to get crippling hand injuries from playing too many video games in 10 years time and need an accessibility controllerā€¦ which is why itā€™s particularly ill thought to post language like that on a board of people at elevated risk of hand injury. Think about this stuff now so if you get fucked up in the future you can build a custom stick and adjust.

Sounds to me you are using your disability to win an argument you already lost.
I doubt you are actually disabled when you try to weaponize something as ā€œI am disabledā€ to win an internet argument.

Just quit, you been called out on your BS by several people

Why are you stirring shit that was already settling down back up by accusing me of lying about my disability? My only ā€œargumentā€ is that your pal was behaving like a dipshit over a casual choice of words, I literally told the guy to buy a Venom if he had no problems with the layout. The disability stuff only came up because a mod got involved and he seemed a lot calmer than you two.

Youā€™e more upset over the word ā€œergonomicā€ than I am over a slur, Is ergonomic a slur to you? I remember you freaking out a dude used oversized quick disconnects on a split box that time.

My TE2+ just started giving me problems the stick turns on then turns off Iā€™m thinking itā€™s the cord cuz when I mess with the cord it turns on is there any where to buy another cord or am I just better off just buying new stick any feedback would be great

I am thinking about building a cheap hitbox for pc. Has anyone built a hitbox using Arduino Leonardo/Uno with a SOCD cleaner? does it have any input lag?

Iā€™ve not used an Arduino to build a hitbox butā€¦

If youā€™re making a cheap hitbox for PC i would recommend the ā€œzero delay usb encoderā€ , they can be found on Ebay for a few Ā£, in the UK anyway.

Mine came with the board and all wires needed to connect to to sanwa buttons. There is a SOCD cleaner on it but its not the best, i think left always overrides right.

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Biggz is definitely right. A zero delay encoder would be a great cheap options. If youā€™re willing to shell out a few extra dollars, you could get it MC Cthulhu when they restock to make a budget multi-console hitbox that can work on PC.

I have a Saturn to PS3/PS4 adapter made by Gummo who used the FGW made by Toodles in tandem with a PDP MKX fightpad. Anyway the L1 button stopped working awhile back and while my FGW does have the button remapping feature, I cannot reenable button 7 (L1) in my attempts. Iā€™ve checked and tried remapping the adapter on a PS4 and a PC.

Iā€™m thinking the MKXā€™s L1 just died out? I donā€™t have a multimeter to check and I donā€™t have the Know-how to disassemble it. Iā€™ve talked to Gummo in the past about this but he is very busy I figure nowadays.

Is there a paint marker that somebody can recommend me that is good for touching up black metal cases like the etokki omni? Im sure there are a ton to choose from. Just wanted to know if there was one that was popular among stick users

Dont get those cheap hobby shop pens, get some automotive grade touch up paint.

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Does anyone know where I can purchase the female panel mount found in Jansenā€™s procable kit? it looks something like the attached pic(3rd plate) but the largest hole is only 1/2" diameter. The GX 16 5 pin connector is 5/8".
panel

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Best i can do is one of these and a Drill

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