Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Yo, Is there any way to make the HORI FS3 work with a 64bit version of windows7?

My ps3 te sagat scar has the same white issues

1 Like

Alright. Thanks a lot for the reply.

The cable door seems to be made out of a more flexible plastic, so Iā€™d expect it to have different properties to the more rigid plastic of the surrounding shell

Yeah I can see the larger panels having more brominated flame retardants (which causes yellowing). Lower product pieces that require more rigorous probably have less of the BFLs in the mix.

Kinda not the most aesthetically pleasingā€¦but at least Iā€™ve got closure. Time to move on to more important shit today (than staring at plastic)ā€¦

How do I fit levered switches to a Hayabusa?

I have some plans for stick builds. The ones largely intended for fighting games will use Hayabusas stock, but I keep thinking about people who just mod their sticks to improve their performance rather than go to a different brand - thereā€™s no ā€œmagicā€ difference between Sanwa and Seimitsu. So for shooters, I was thinking about keeping Hayabusa as a base, getting one of the tough oversized actuators and maybe fitting in levered switches. I guess this might involve having to use a modded Sanwa gate too.

Need some help, last night my Brooks UFB was acting normal and now my 1-4 punch and kick buttons wonā€™t work unless I hit a direction. I havenā€™t had any other issues in a while, nor have I messed with the wiring inside of the stick. If I try using the ps360+ pcb in my stick the opposite happens. I tried looking inside of my case to see if anything was grounding out inside of the case, if any wires were out of place, and I can not find anything wrong.

People go with Seimitsu over Sanwa for Shmups is because the Sanwa JLF and Hayabusa has a long throw, while most of Seimitsu offerings have a short throw.

Modders who try to ā€œimproveā€ the performance of their JLF is just fooling themselves.
There no secret sauce to play better, a Modded JLF will still feel and play like a JLF and will not feel like a different stick.
As for fitting levered switches in a Hayabusa? Get ready for soldering/desoldering and some dremel work.

Does the Brook PS4 audio board support true analog? For example, could I fit it with an aimtrak spinner for something like Tempest 4000, or does it just handle those inputs as digital?

Even if it did, a Spinner is different than an Analog thumb Stick.

And MOST actual arcade spinners are not Analog, they use optical encoders (especially the free spinning ones).

Sample of a Optical Encoder Wheel, used in many arcade Spinners, Steering Wheels, Ball type Mouse, Nintendo brand N64 thumb stick arenā€™t analog, they are digital. They use a rotary Encoder Wheel (like the above) and optical sensors.

And many position based Spinners use Digital Rotary Encoders.
Only those turn knobs that use potentiometers are actually Analog.

The aimtrak spinner uses a Rotary Encoder, except for the Opti-PAC which uses a optical encoder.

1 Like

Is it just me or does the new PS4 Brook audio hella snug on USB cables? I feel like Iā€™m going to break something pulling it out and Iā€™ve tried a couple different USB cables.

This gets WELL out of my modding comfort zone, but this seems to suggest I could use an Aurdunio and a DVD motor to make a spinner controller? https://youtu.be/xjXBE8Tt4kI

In theory could an Aurdunio be used to mediate data between the Aimtrack and the Brook board? I could use DPDT switches to flip between the standard USB encoder the spintrak comes with and the Brookā€¦

EDIT: Since thereā€™s a limited number of games Iā€™ll want to use this on PS4 for (Llamasoft stuff mostly) it might make more sense to just roll a PC spinner then eventually get a Brook Sniper or XIMā€¦ this is a veeeery long term project on my budget, lol

I tried to install sanwa octagonal gt-y on a cheap stick I mess around with but I think it didnā€™t clip in properly and would like to re-set it, the tabs wonā€™t budge at all though itā€™s clipped in tight, is there some trick to remove it?

You might have to break off the tabs then drill the gate and use screws. What model stick is it? A lot of cheap microswitched levers use the same principle as the Hori knockoff from last gen, so this might be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNOE95P4lYY

Itā€™s a madcatz sfv alpha, it works but it makes a weird knocking noise on some corners and some corners respond slightly differently than others. I think itā€™s not exactly compatible with the stock joystick, I watched some guys video and didnā€™t notice he had already swapped for a sanwa joystick before changing the gate, so that might explain it, maybe Iā€™ll upgrade the joystick one day and fix it that way.

The octo gate might not be centered

1 Like

So I recently got a hori mini stick and wanted to add it to a stick with a ps360+ but I encountered a problem I canā€™t explain.
Both pcbs are working fine separately, but when I piggyback the hori pcb to the ps360+ strip terminals, the hori works without any problems but the ps360+ doesnā€™t.
It is detected by windows, the forced 360 mode works too, but after that it doesnā€™t register any inputs. Iā€™ve checked my wiring multiple times and everything looks like it should, I even tried with another PS360+ pcb and got the same results.
So does anyone have an idea of what happens here?

Can you post any photos of your Work?
We could catch something you might have missed.

Remember all boards needed to be connected to Power and Ground.
Also some boards donā€™t play nice with each other, some boards despite being Common ground some are Low Logic and some are High Logic.

This can be fixed with some transistors and Diodes, but depending on what systems you want to use your stick for, you might be better off going with a single board.

I could take photos later while redoing it as Iā€™ve taken everything out to test more easely.
I tried to connect only ground and vcc between both pcbs, then connect every button one by one from the hori to the ps360. Results were very strange, most buttons would appear held down on the ps360, one would make the inputs go nuts (some connected buttons are no longer registered as held down while some not connected become).
As for why I tried to get this pcb in the stick, I wanted to have ps4 support for tourneys on the stick I use at home to play on pc (donā€™t have a ps4), it has silent JLF and gamerfinger buttons so itā€™s a bit different than my other sticks. But I guess Iā€™ll put the hori pcb in the other old TE I have to keep things simple.

A Brook would pair nicely with that board or act as a drop-in replacement if you werenā€™t entirely fussed with legacy support (and if money is no issue, Brook super converters for PS2 and Dreamcast with native Xbox support make it harder and harder for me to justify the Cthulhu dual mod Iā€™m planning). You could offset a lot of the cost by selling the PCBs you currently have?