is there any way to do that before I buy a new joystick? It’s in so tight there’s not much i can do with it.
You said it your self
it’s not exactly compatible with the stock joystick
The JLF Octo gate is meant to be used with a JLF, not a Mad Catz made joystick that in their madcatz sfv alpha.
The tolerances aren’t going to be the same and it can be off center.
With Cheaper parts (like Mad Catz own made parts) you aren’t going to get consistent tolerances and quality.
Each one going to be off a little.
yeah, I ordered a JLF, the stock is a ripoff JLF, still playable but just a little off.
Grabbed this thing to use as a DPDT switch in my future dual-modded ultra ulia - I’m not literate when it comes to reading technical stuff, but this can turn either way with the key in (and it only turns out of neutral with the key in), so effectively it has three positions. Does that mean that the NO is connected to the COM without the key in, and COM is connected to NC by turning the key either way? Sorta confused. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19mm-Three-Tranches-key-Rotary-Control-DPDT-Latching-Pushbutton-Switch/121902401442?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I’m trying to convert my Qanba Dragon into a hitbox. Does anyone know how to do this? I’m completely lost.
It usually means replacing or moddifying the top panel for the additional button holes that would be needed.
Wiring the directions to 4 buttons instead of 4 joystick switches, and sometimes some kind of SOCD filtering so people can’t call you a cheat.
Hope you know a good metal shop, dude. The metal top panel seems quite beefy.
Check this vid out. Start at around 15:30.
If it were me, I’d just buy (or mod) another stick that’s more easily converted.
Yeah I ended up talking to a guy that could recreate the plate and he said it’d be really hard but he said he could mod my qanba obsidian instead.
He saus I’ll need a brook board to avoid soldering so I ordered a Universal Fighting Board. Can you give me tips on how to install it? I’ve never changed a a PCB. What do I need to do it?
There’s an EZ mod kit for the Obsidian now: https://arcadeshock.com/products/ez-mod-for-qanba-obsidian-w-brook-universal-fighting-board-kit-w-soldered-headers-pre-order
You’d want to check how to set up the hitbox mode on the Brook (there’s a header for it with jumpers, I don’t hitbox so I don’t know how) and make a ground daisy chain for the directional buttons, wiring them individually and directly to the Brook.
Not sure what you mean by “there’s a header for it with jumpers”. I don’t think I did anything special with my UFB hitbox.
Just follow the wiring diagram from Brook and you’ll be fine. Replace the stick with the four direction buttons, daisy chain the ground (black) with each of the coloured wires going to the joystick doing to the corresponding button.
All the top buttons are solder-less and can screw in to the UFB terminals, the lower ones need soldering but you don’t need those for the UFB to work as a hitbox.
IIRC, you can fuck with some SOCD cleaner settings by jumpering the J2 connector or not?
Is that if you use a separate SOCD?
The UFB has it built in (left + right = neutral, down+up = up).
Just looked up the jumper 2 information. It looks like you can pick the way the SOCD works… who knew
As default the SOCD will work fine, but if you want to change it bridge that J2
Open J2_4、J2_5: Current SOCD output.
Short J2_4、J2_5: New SOCD output, second command covers first command. ie: (← + → = →),(→ + ← = ←)
My Sanwa Jlf made more noise that normally, If will be fixed with some G-40M-100 lube that i bought in akishop or it´s not the problem?
I say clean the joystick, remove all the old lube and relube the joystick. Inspecting for any tear or damage along the way.
OK in the videos that see they only lube the white part for the two faces but not lube the shaft
OK, that i do
You don’t need that much lube at all, Just a pea sized amount. Just lube the piviot and nothing else.
No other parts really need lube, if anything too much lube can attract dust and can gunk up the joystick.
Is the JLF engage that much different from the hayabusa? Does the silent JLF have durability issues? Thanks.
What’s the consensus on the new LS-32 with the omron microswitches? Does it feel the same?