So, my wife surprised the hell out of me and let me know we can get this virtual on cab I’ve been dying for. I asked a few questions about the condition and the reply I got back was (if I can read this broken text right) is that one of the controls acts weird sometimes and may need replacement, but when clean usually runs fine (paraphrasing him).
Any idea on what the potential issue could be? And if so, how easy would a fix be on something like that?
So I went to play street fighter yesterday and the “down” input wasn’t registering on my TE stick. All the directions and buttons work except, "down, “down forward” and “down back”. I’ve had the stick for 5 years now so I’m wondering if it’s just time to get a new one? Or is there something that can be easily replaced?
Jlf pcb assembly- very simple fix, $12 part. Given how long you’ve had the stick,I would also suggest getting 8 sw-68 button microswitches to have on hand for when those wear out.
Q. Is it allowed to import a stick from Japan which isn’t released in your country yet?
A. Usually yes, but it depends on your country. US and Canada this is a non-issue.
Q. Because my stick is stuck in customs for 2 days now
A. Customs is known for taking there time, specially if there alot to process or that particular customs facility has a back log of work.
They also known to take several precautions and measures, especially if they do not know what they are looking at. Also depends on your country.
You have to have a switch separating ether the signal lines or the ground.
It be easier to have a switch on the ground line going to just those 2 buttons.
Oh ok. It’s in German customs atm. I hope this will be a non-issue as well. I can import Japanese games (they have lesser value I know), which didn’t get a release date here and I hope it will be the same for the stick.
If I wanted to retain the function of the turbo panel without the stock 360 PCB on a madcatz v.s. stick.
Would I just simply make sure that vcc is reaching the top panel. Essentially I just want the home button to still work as I’ll be taking out the stock 360 PCB and installing a hori fc4
What would be the best choice for a PCB to use on WII U?
I would like full functionality in all Wii U games, Wii U VC, Wii games, Wii VC, and WiiWare.
[list]
[] MC TTT2 PCB (I searched SRK, people are reporting that the (L) & ® buttons don’t work when playing TvC, I doubt this’ll be patched out right?)
[] MC TvC PCB
[] Hori Wii Fighting Stick PCB
[] @Toodles MC Cthulhu
[] @Toodles PiiWee
[] PS360+
[*] Wii Classic Controller PCB (Pad Hack?)[/list]
so my button died on my only 3 month old hori fighting edge, i opened it up to switch it out and when i tried to screw the screws back in the bottom 3 screws are completely loose and just fall to the bottom. how do i fix this? i can hear some things rattling around at the bottom, but dont know how to get to it.
For the Xbox 360 Mad Catz Stick.
Without the Main PCB, the turbo/guide PCB is sort of useless in a Xbox 360 madcatz stick. It does not matter if were talking the SE, Brawl, KE, TE (round 1 & 2), TE-S, Pro or the V.S.
You can still solder to the Home/Guide and Turbo buttons but you not retain any Turbo support.
Only if the PCB you are adding/replacing the main PCB with has Turbo, would Turbo even work (assuming you wire turbo back in)
Attaching VCC only works with the PS3 versions of those sticks, as the guide area PCB is it, there no 2nd larger PCB for the PS3 versions.
1 Red | + 3.3V
2 Yellow | SCL. I²C Serial Clock. (400 kHz)
3 Red | Connected to 3.3V inside attachment connector
4 | - Not connected.
5 Green | SDA. I²C Serial Data
6 White | Ground
I would assume so IF the imp is basically just functioning as a dpdt switch, I can’t say for certain though. Maybe someone else here can offer some insight?