Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Tech Talk
401

I am planning on modifying a Madcatz TE S top panel to allow for the mounting of a Myoungshin Fanta lever, and had a quick question about removing the original Japanese mounting plate from the panel.

I am assuming that the mounting plate is welded only at the spots circled in red in the image below. If I were to drill those spots out, would I be able to remove the mount without too much difficulty?

http://i.imgur.com/fvAUqAt.jpg

After removing the plate, I will widen the original hole for the joystick so as to fit the collar for the Fanta, and drill new holes to mount the Korean Lever. Iā€™ll also need to use some kind of spacers to mount the stick at the right height, but that should be simple enough.

Have any of you made this particular modification before? Is there anything important that I should note before beginning?

The help is much appreciated.

402

My stick (hrap vx sa kai) started acting weird last week. It just disconnects from the console occasionally, more and more often as the gaming session goes on, sometimes for just a sec, sometimes I have to replug it.

First I thought the pcb was dying, but now I suspect the white plastic ā€œwire frameā€ for the wires from the usb cable is getting loose in its socket on the pcb. The glue is super dry on it and I could easily pull it out of its socket.

What kind of glue should I use to fix the position of the plastic thing in its socket?

403

You would be better off just soldering on a new USB cable.

404

You are correct to assume the joystick mount bracket is spot welded into place on the TE top panel.
if you take out the 4 welds, the bracket will come off. Will drilling do the trick? I honestly donā€™t know, I never tried it.

405

Nice torch would do the trick. Art would die though.

406

Guys, need a final advice. After seeing all those awesome sticks in the thread, i decided to buy clear buttons, have a plexi cut in cnc etc. My aim is to have something like this:
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h373/mzhd93/a1/P1010138.jpg
Which clear button is better, seimitsu or sanwa? I read here and there that sanwa clears not that good. Is this correct?

407

Itā€™s personal preference but I like the Seimitsu clears more, especially because they are available in the screw-in variation(great if you swap artwork a lot etc)

408

I hate sanwa clears since Iā€™ve had a handful of the tabs break on me when I tried to take them out. If you are doing a one and done install then go for it, just donā€™t take the rims out until you are going to replace the entire button.

Seimitsu buttons are my preference. I like snap in clears due to the feel of the PS-14-D switch. If i use custom switches then Iā€™d go for KNs, screws are always easier than tabs.

409

Thanks guys! I placed my order, so excited for my first stick!
LS-58-01-C-MS
LS-56 Round Gate(I have been told this is actually an octogonal gate)
LS-56-01 Spring
LS-56-01 E-clip
PS-14-DN-K 3X
PS-14-KN 8X

All in clear. I will have a plexi cut in laser, and place a nice artwork. Rest of the case will be designed and built by me B) I also might throw some leds inside.

410

Remember although this mostly applies to more heavy welding than spot welds.

If the metal breaks before the weld you have a good weld.

If the weld breaks before the metal it was a bad weld.

Iā€™ve never seen that type of mod before though. Would be neat if you could pull it off though

411

True, with really well done good weld, the weld it self is the strongest part of that metal object.

412

Wood glue is stronger than wood and a good weld is stronger than the metal.

Might still be worth a shot though. Good chance itā€™s not the best of welds.

413

Whats the best type of paper to use for printing fightstick art

God a picture printed and it was more or less just standard priting paper, feel like the edges are a bit rough when cutting with an exacto knife. Thinking of reprinting, is there a certain type I should ask for or that is the best?

414

Is it possible to use a US Saturn Model 1 controller PCB in a custom stick? I have an old stick that had PS1/DC guts inside of it, but no longer works. Was thinking of having someone gut it, wire up a Saturn PCB and then I wont have to buy a new stick.

415

Hello

I have an old HRAP EX-SE that I modded years ago with a JLF-TM-8. I used a terminal strip to connect the wires that came from the PCB to some wires with quick disconnects for micro-switches on the JLF.

Now for my question, I wish to replace my JLF-TM-8 with a Hori Hayabusa. The problem is that the Hori Hayabusa uses a PCB + Harness to install.

I am wondering if I can just connect a harness to my terminal strip and then daisy chain each ground connection on the terminal strip to install it.

I believe the HRAP EX-SE is ā€œnon-common groundā€ setup, but I donā€™t know anything dealing with electrical wiring or know-how.

Thanks for any and all help!

416

Hello!

Iā€™m from Sweden and have been into fighting games casually since SF4 came back in the days. By casual I mean playing EVERY fighting game that caught my eye at the time so I have average experience of KoF13, Injustice, SFxT(a shame what they did with this title), Tekken Tag 2 and have been a way more dedicated with SSF4, SCV and UMvC3 player. 3 days ago I felt the urge to try GG Xrd so I bought it with my US account and damn! What a game, I love fighting games wich rewards you for being aggresive and punishes you for being passive. I was psyched to get a stick and get into this game, what I didnā€™t know was this ass situation with PS4 sticksā€¦

My first stick was one of those madcatz SF4 sticks wich I swapped the original parts with sanwa stuff(didnā€™t know anything back then, a friend just told me it would be better), had minor problems witch some kick button. From there I went to a Tournament Edition wich I loved, superb stick! After going to Japan for a while I really got the taste for the arcade feel wich ended up with me getting two SFXT VS editions and put them up on a table in my living room, also wonderful sticks.

Iā€™m not an experienced modders, I can work my way around switching sticks and buttons but this whole PCB thing is probably out of my reach. I really want a stick and the only two options seems to be preordering a MC TE2 wich doesnā€™t come around until April, or preordering the Hori Hayabusa V4 Kai for late February. Now I have no experience of the Hayabusa stick or the kuro buttons but from what Iā€™ve read on dustloop.com kuro buttons arenā€™t that favored compared to sanwa yet the Hayabusa stick is praised above the ones that Madcatz use(is it JLF or something?). Madcatz are usually easy to mod yet would the Hayabusa fit? and can you replace the Kuro buttons on the Hori stick with sanwa buttons? Also I got long arms and read someones post over at dustloop that the Hori stick is a bit to close to the buttons Anyone who can give me some deep insight into this issue? Thanks!

417

You should only need 1 ground wire from the joystick 5 pin harness, you can connect your directions as they are in your existing setup.

418

The Hayabusā€™s casing is larger than the JLF, but it should fit in the TE2 from what Iā€™ve read. Also, the Kuro buttons are interchangeable with Sanwa 30mm buttons (ans Seimitsu 30mm buttons, for that matter). I couldnā€™t tell you firsthand about the button/stick placement, I havenā€™t used one. I can say that I havenā€™t seen that complaint here before.

419

Is it because the PCB has all of the microswitches daisy chained already?

420

Thatā€™s correct.