Yeah trail and error, you might want to use some game with a practice mode where you can see your inputs on screen
Most of the Chinese sellers of that board have a button guide further down in the description. Also, the L and R buttons are correctly labeled already, the mode button functions as home.
Edit @electrifuzz :
Whatâs that awesome textured wire sleeving everyone seems to be using nowadays?
Oh, I didnât mean that particular setup, just the type of sleeving, since I saw it used outside of that harness setup as well. Though I guess it indirectly answered that question as well. Thank you!
That stuff is simply called Braided Wire Sleeve, you want to use synthetic materials (like nylon or PET) and it is best under the brand name of Tech Flex. Stick to general purpose Tech Flex. The Heavy Duty stuff is for industrial use. Example the braid made from Kevlar is overkill.
You could also use the outer layer of Paracord or 550 cord (putting out the center threads) if there a pattern or color you canât find with Tech Flex. Light duty Paracord is fine as the heavy duty stuff will be a waste of money.
There are metal wire braided sleeves, avoid this stuff as its intended for hydraulic hoses and not electrical wiring.
Braided Wire Sleeves are used in thousands of applications, electrical, hydraulic, marine use ect. Scuba gear drivers use this to color code air hoses, automotive, audio and PC case enthisist been using braided wire slaves for years for everything from reinforcing wiring, wire and cable organisation, color coding and visual aesthetics.
For Arcade sticks, its mostly for organization and visual aesthetics.
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Thank you so much @PresidentCamacho, I finally have a working arcade stick on my PC/PS3!!
I was messing around in training on USF4 on my hrap kai and I noticed after a while my mp/mk buttons started acting up, they wouldnât register like a third of the time and if I tried to plink or hit two buttons at once they would straight up not register at all. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it immediately worked fine, just wondering if there might be a problem with the pcb or usb or something, only happened once so far but iâd rather it not happen again and iâm wondering if this is a problem anyone has experience with?
Stopped by Radio Shack and bought a new Soldering Iron and a tip cleaner. Are there any other supplies I should be looking at from them? Considering I plan to make some sticks or die trying, any heads up wold be appreciated.
Dremmel manual stated I use compressed air for cleaning it, can I use the cans of dust remover spray for it? Seems like there wouldnât be a problem but Iâd rather ask.
Momentary switches and dual pole-dual throw (DPDT) toggle switches are handy to have around.
I just finished making some custom fightstick art, and I just have a few general questions before I go off and get it printed:
I would like to probably change my artwork again in the future most likely, so would the screws/buttons be enough to keep the artwork in or do I need to apply adhesive? Also what kind of paper should I get it printed on? I was thinking maybe card stock or laminated but Iâm not sure which would be the best?
I asked this in the UD USB Decoder thread but thought I would ask it here.
Is there a list of currently supported ps3/360/usb supported devices that the decoder works with?
@undamned
I got one of these and have it set up. But for some reason my decoder only recognizes 360 controls. It does not recognize ps3 controls such as the toodles chtulu, inpin converter or ps360+ booted in ps3 mode. Any idea why and how I can fix this? I think I need to refresh the firmware. But the instructions for doing so are a bit confusing to me.
@Darksakul I think you mentioned earlier you had trouble updating the firmware. The instructions mention something about a boot loader application and a firmware file. Were do I get these from? Any help would be appreciated.
Also, what would be the best way to check how much latency is introduced when a convertor is made from one of these?
Not yet. Still need to put one together.
Iâve personally tested both MC Cthulhu and PS360+ in PS3 mode. No idea why itâs not working for you. Unless you bought yours from me aeons ago or you bought an old one used from someone else, itâs definitely not a result of old firmware. If you do want to try updating it just to cross that off your list of things to try, download one of the manuals (firmware update is same for all) and the firmware/program file here:
There is no simple answer. My converter does its job in about 1ms, but you have to factor in the entire chain:
Input controller -> UD-USB Decoder -> Encoder PCB (pad hack, whatever)
Iâve seen input controllers range from ~1ms to ~14ms. If your encoder PCB is not USB based (Playstation 2, for example), I think the encoding time is probably pretty fast (maybe even negligible).
-ud
Whatâs the general consensus on the best Xbox 360 PCB to padhack now?
Its been years since brawl pads have been long out of stock locally so my question Iâd locally if you needed a pad what would be your best bet going to walmart, target, GameStop, etc.
Rock candy pads. Havenât done one myself, but word here is that the triggers donât need inverted.
So vinyl dye on sanwa rims. Is there any sort of gloss coat or something I need to sand off beforehand? Anything else I should know besides numerous thin coats, and wash the plastic beforehand?
All I know is make sure itâs clean and dry and that itâs real Vinyl dye and not that Krylon or Rust-Oleum stuff etc thatâs not real and will wear off over time unless you clear/gloss coat etc
I am about to place order the parts of my first arcade stick. I have some final questions and make sure i donât miss anything. If i do miss anything or buy something wrong, i have to bear another 2-3 weeks of shipping time 
Also please consider this is a poor manâs build. I would like buying lots of different color parts but right know i just need a quality stick to play.
The parts i will order:
LS-58-01-C-MS 1x
OBSN-30 10x
LS-56 spring
e-clip for backup
Terminals
So, Anything missing?
Now the questions:
1-Should i buy bolts and screws?
2-Couldnât find octo gate for ls-58 in akishop. But there is this: LS-56 Round Gate Is this an octo gate?
3-I will sacrifice a cheapo controller and use itâs pcb. I am not sure how many buttons i should buy. Other than standart 10 buttons it has âTurboâ, âAutoâ, âClearâ buttons. What do they do and should wire these buttons to new stick?
I would appreciate any other suggestions too.
Edit: Is this pcb any good?
One final question, I know that Neutrik D-type chassis fit in a 24mm hole, but whatâs the size for the screws?
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If youâre building the case yourself, youâll need them at some point.
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Yes, thatâs the octo gate for the 56/58.
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I would recommend 11 buttons in case you want to use it with a console later. 8 action buttons, start, select, and home/guide. I would also recommend that you use 24mm buttons for the last 3 (start, select, home) to save space. Donât worry about hooking up turbo/auto/slow/etc unless you want them- nobody uses that stuff anyways.
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That pcb should work fine, though I do recall a few users having trouble with usf4 on steam with it (he might have been using a Mac,i donât remember for sure). PC compatibility often seems to be a crapshoot.