The Standalone PS3/PS4 does (check the user doc), but the UFB does not.
UFB uses the standard SOCD Neutral filtering.
Yes. It does not matter what mode the joystick is set to, DP, LS or RS the SOCD cleaner is still works.
LS supposedly lags more than DP as there some board level conversion of the On/Off signals to LS output. This is especially so on the PS3 and Xbox 360.
But some PC games only accepts LS.
You’re a boss. Thank you for replying.
The Brook UFB says it “behaves differently” while in LS or RS Mode. I’ll reach out to them for clarity.
IMO it’s strange that the UFB doesn’t allow you to disable the SOCD cleaner while their less expensive offering does.
Keep in mind the less expensive offering is a newer design.
And you cant completely disable SOCD, you choose between natural filtering or directional priority. If you want zero SOCD you need to pad hack.
I’ve been playing with the Seimitsu LS-40 occasionally and really like the short engage/throw. My favorite lever is the Hori Hayabusa Optical, is there any way to make my optical Hayabusa feel like an LS-40? I’d like for the optical to have the LS-40’s short engage and throw. Thank you.
I don´t want to bump the old HORI RAP thread just to ask this.
Which joystick can i mount on a Hori RAP 4 Kai with proper height? i´d like to mount a Different Joystick (non Hori Hayabusa neither Sanwa JLF)… Any recommendation? Can i mount the LS3201 without having to swap to the flat plate?
Thanks!
I would recommend the S-plate.
You might have to use only 2 screws instead of 4 but it still holds.
Has anyone mounted a fanta myoungshin in a HRAP3?
Besides opening it up to 35mm which is not an issue.
Just curious if it will mount up using the 2019 plate or if a universal flat plate is needed
you will need a Kowal plate, and then a Fanta low-profile collar from Arcade Stick Indonesia. Both of these are available at Focus Attack.
I’m opening up the hole to 35mm so low profile collar not needed . also seems the 2019 edition comes with Japanese mounting plate so I should be good. I’ll scoop up a kowal just in case
Anyone know where I can get a slightly higher tension spring for my LS-40-01?
I’ve got a PAS 1.5lb spring in the JLF of my Sanwa stick. LS-40-01 feels a little loose now in comparison.
I aready know the LS-40 spring is shared with the LS-32, and my searches of Arcadeshock, Focus Attack and PAS and came up with nothing. Help?
P.S. no, I don’t want an LS-56
You could always stretch the spring a little bit.
Thanks, but unfortunately that’s a temp fix. Eventually it will revert back to its original tension spec.
I think the JLW Spring is stiffer and should fit, problem is finding a JLW spring.
You can also hit the hardware store for assorted springs
Thinking about buying an LS-33 Kai and mounting it in a Fighting Stick EX2 body for a portable shmup stick. Assume I’ll need to make some new mounting holes in the body? Anyone know the recommended install height?
With Seimitsu, make the flat mount plate flush with the under side of the panel.
Ordered the LS-33 Kai. Think I’m gonna stain the case dark blue, wrap with black carbon on the metal and maybe go for a kind of hyperstick look. I’m going for the following in my collection
Daily fightstick - Fighting Edge PS4 with EZ-MOD, red 30RGs and yellow Semitsu start button (Complete)
All rounders: Two Ultra Uilias with the Brook UFB/Retro dual mod, one with Hayabusa/30RGs, one with JLW and 30RGs (Sanwa shmup stick)
*Portables: my modded Fighting Stick N3-SA (V3 variant) - JLF with 30RGs and Brook, modded EX2 with LS-33 and probably my yellow keikou set.
I can’t play shmups with JLF throw for shit lol, so that’s very much a “dream” setup for me.
hey guys im having trouble finding a wiring diagram for the sfiv 360 fightpad, I searched the padhack thread but of course photobucket happened and most of the pics dont work anymore. Anyone have a diagram in the annals of their photo library?
Silent JLF in my Mad Catz TE2+ shit the bed the other day and instead of fixing it, I’m thinking of trying out a Seimitsu LS-32 or LS-38. Does anyone know if I can just drop one of these puppies in without buying a new plate? Also, what should I expect from these / opinions on which is better?
Thanks.
Which part “shit the bed” exactly? One of the switches?
You will need a new plate regardless if you switch from a JLF to any Seimitsu stick.
Yeah, one of the switches (left directional in its current configuration) doesn’t always register and when it does, it’ll often get stuck.
I’ve never used a Seimitsu stick before but I love their buttons; is it the S plate that fits into the TE2+? I suppose I could just get both, save the headache, and have an extra plate for a future project.