What causes a spring to get stiff? I installed a JLF and LS-32 spring in my hayabusa and played with both for about 30 minutes, then installed my hayabusa stock spring again and played for 30 minutes. The hayabusa spring felt stiff and sluggish compared to the jlf and ls-32. Thanks.
*edit: added that hayabusa spring feels very sluggish/stiff compared to the jlf, even stiffer than the ls-32.
you have to get a stiffer spring than you need, as all springs have to be broken in.
Yo, are these controllers any good?
Like, quality and how much do they last
The line most people will tell you is if you really want to know,
then take one for the team, buy one and report your results.
Never mind, I saw that B15 did a gold stick in a video. Maybe one day I’ll get one done with House of Kolor paint
I can find the original SOCD Cleaner guide image for 2 7400 NAND Gates.
Any clue on that?
Thanks
Currently building my own stick, and using cable braiding to keep it neat, but after seeing this I’m wondering what the black stuff is around the white braiding? If someone could show me an ebay or store listing so I know what I’m looking for
Picture for reference
Pretty sure it’s heat shrink.
Thanks I was 50/50… But heat shrink in what imused to is the ones with a piece of copper in to connect 2 broken wires
Does the HRAP 3 PCB have solder points on the back? I’m looking to fit it with a dual mod ufb/Jasen Cthulhu, and I’d like to maintain the stock appearance with full function, probably repurposing the turbo selector as a stick select.
I’ve read through the FAQ, went though the Dual Modding 101 thread and used Google to search the forum, alas, no suitable solution has presented itself.
I’ve currently been playing all fighting games on PC using the Mad Cats SSFIV TES fightstick. Now I have some friends playing on either PS4 or X1, and I’d like to join them using my fightstick. I’m pretty handy when it comes to modding electronic devices and am looking for a solution which would make my current fightstick work on as many devices as possible. Otherwise, I’d be happy with PC/PS4.
Lots of information on this seems to be outdated. I’ve found the Brooks convertors to be a bit unclear as there are several versions and this particular fightstick wasn’t on their compatibility list. Also, I’d imagine I could mod the fightstick to include a custom PCB or whatnot in order to work on other devices.
Any tips, links, tutorials, devices or otherwise helpful information would be greatly appreciated.
Brook Universal Fighting Board. You can either wire the buttons directly or use the PCB on the terminal strip to get a more intergrated feel. Xbox 360 is the easiest to mod because it uses a sub-pcb for he control panel and you don’t have to solder. I can dig out my notes on wiring if you have any specific questions.
Thanks, so if I were to order this Brook Universal Fighting Board from Akishop.jp I could convert my Xbox 360 Mad Catz SSFIV TE fightstick to an universally working fightstick that works on Xbox360/Xbox One/PS3/PS4 and PC?
Looks like I need to add some headers to it and start wiring it up, doesn’t look too bad. If you happen to know where I can find resources as to how to wire this thing up I’d be more than grateful.
Iirc Arcade Shock sell presoldered headers and button harnesses - I’d give them a try first. It’s pretty self explanatory for the most part - you wire in the joystick harness and the button connections from the terminal strip to the screw terminals on the Brook. Some people like to use turbo as the touchpad but I used it as share. To maintain the lockswitch connect the KGROUND from the turbo panel to the KGROUND on the terminal strip for the buttons. More advanced stuff is mostly player LEDs, you can skip that. You’ll need to work out how you’re going to fit your USB cable in since there’s not a large enough hole to feed the USB cable through. I drilled a Neutrik in the cable compartment but there are other ways around it.
I’m not concerned about drilling a clean hole or soldering. I could make my own harness if needed, but that would require getting the correct connectors. Can’t I re-use the original, or mod it so that it would work? And would installing the Brooks UFB mean that I will have to use a new USB cable? I’ve seen some connector ports that you can add, but I find it strange I couldn’t just wire up the one already in there.
Guess I’ll have to open up the fightstick so see what it looks inside and what I’d need. Thanks for getting me this far!
If you buy the Brook with presoldered headers and you’re able to make JST crimps yourself you can cut the USB cable off the PCB and fit a JST header on it. If there are two black grounds tie them together, one is the cable shield
Thanks mate, you’ve been really helpful. I’ve got what I need for now.
I might hop back in for a quick question once I get working on this 
Anytime! I’m moving to Hori sticks, but the UFB is a really easy install in the TE and the compatability is some magic shit
So Ive been gaming on a full Sanwa stick for a couple of years now and they have always felt a bit light.
I have looked into getting the seimitsu clears due to stick aesthetic choice.
I have done reading on Sanwa vs Seimitsu… but is there a real noticeable difference? When engrossed in the game will I notice the difference like using a different stick or gate, or are the differences so minor despite what people say?
Also another Q…
So I bought a custom case from allfightsticks, and I wanted to get some green button bolts to replace the black ones. The ones being used are 6-32 button bolts which is the equivilent to a M3.5 .6
I honestly cant seem to find a European supplier of these, I just cant find them coloured.
