Thanks for the quick reply, bro. Didn’t realise it was as easy as that. I’ll probably rewire “home” to the select button. I almost never use it.
Cool, just remember you’ll have to solder to the contact on the pcb, there isn’t a disconnect on the Home button.
Okay. Could you tell me the specific steps? I’m trying to improve my tech knowledge, so this is really helpful.
few questions hope someone can help me out…
- Does anyone know which font is used on the TE sticks for the “Arcade Fightstick Tournement Edition” text?
- I’m planning to swich my art on my TE S stick… Are there any other steps to follow other than the guide for the normal TE edition? (I noticed that the turbo panel comes a bit out of the stock art, I’m wondering if that is giving issues if you change it with a plexi + art…
thx in advance!!
Fireye GF.
Sorry for my lack of research here before posting this question.
For sticks, is there a preferred platform to start with when going with a dualmod?
If doing a custom, then there is no preference. Just a common ground PCB.
If buying a retail stick, the 360 TE and the variations (CC/TT/MvC/Rd2/S) are the more economical starting platforms. Simply because there are cheaper/easier options to add PS3 support (Cthulhu/Chimp/Dual Strike).
I have a TE stick, are there buttons out there with a stiffer spring in them? Or different travel? I tend to hold buttons down too long. I’m looking to customize, but I’m a noob at it.
Try Seimitsu buttons, they’re a very easy replacement. Which buttons is a different question altogether. Some people like PS-14-KNs because they’re transparent, and allow LED mods as well as artwork mods. PS-14-GNs allow artwork inside, and are flat, as opposed to the more convex surface of the KNs. PS-15 fit, too. They have neat colors, like the PS-14-G. But, PS-14-G have had some trouble fitting into FightSticks, so you may want to skip on those. The real details are in the specifics, such as button shape, tiny inklings of sensitivity, but generally, if you want a harder spring, and less sensitive (But 100% responsive, these are also authentic Japanese arcade parts) than the Sanwa buttons that come in the TE, get Seimitsu, any 30mm button works. Lizardlick.com is a good site to buy parts from. They ship fast if you’re in the US. I live one state away, so it can be in my mailbox in as little as two days 
Really, with the buttons you want, just get any 30mm Seimitsu button that you think looks good. There are so many combinations of how it can feel vs. specific tightness, but a Seimitsu button will be tighter than what you have. But you want to like what you look at. So, I’d say, just go on that instead of worrying about a very specific “feel.”
To install is not hard at all. Depending on the model you get, you can get snap in or screw in buttons. Either work with the TE. When you open up your panel, you’ll see two quick disconnect tabs on each button. Gently pull these off (You can move the vinyl cover and use pliers if they are being tough to remove), and then use a small flathead screwdriver to push the two tabs on the Sanwa OBSF-30 button. Push both tabs inward and then push the button out. Then, place your new button in. If you have a screw-in style button (Such as PS-14-KN or PS-14-GN), you will need to screw in the included mounting nut. If it is a snap in, such as PS-15 or PS-14-K, You only need to push the button on, and it snaps in. Then, place both of the tabs that were on the original button onto the two lugs of your replacement. Repeat for all of the buttons. Order does not matter when you replace the wires. As long as both color wires are the same on the button, you can have it either way. Both will work.
You’ll want to Edit your Post.
There is a mistake.
Laugh.
Nerrage, thanks for the informative reply! Found the right color buttons in ps-14-g and ps-15! What’s the difference between the two?
PS-14-G are flat.
PS-15 are convex.
PS-14-G are normal.
PS-15 are low profile.
PS-14-G use the PS-14G Microswitch (TKC MM9-4).
PS-15 use the PS-14D Microswitch (TKC MM9-3).
I can go into more.
But it does not matter for regular people.
I already said too much anyways for this level.
ps-15 it is then. Thanks
Two more questions.
A.)What are the mounting depth of iL/HAPP Sticks and buttons? (Also, whats the size of the hole I should use for the stick?I know JP are 24mm…)
B.)How far do iL buttons generally stick up?
Does the art+plexi from arthong go OVER the metal plate? Or does it replace it…
Guess it wouldn’t make much sense if it replaced it… but I guess I’m just asking for confirmation.
Custom Acrylic Panel and Art Print goes on Metal Plate.
Custom Replacement Acrylic Panel gets rid of the Metal Plate.
Hello. I have a problem with my MadCatz TE stick. When i playing sometimes suddenly 2 buttons LT RT (mk hk) stop working. Only reconnect helps me. So one know what to do? Sorry for my English. Thx.
A few people have reported the Triggers going out on the 360 stick, I don’t know of a way to fix it. If it is still under warranty I would suggest contacting Mad Catz for assistance.
Yes, it is known problem.
Happens a lot.
I’ve been wanting to mod my JLF with the cherry switches, but I’m having a little trouble tracking down a set of D44L-R1AA switches, but I can easily find D44C-R1AA switches. What I would like to know is what is the difference between the D44L-R1AA and the D44C-R1AA? And could the C be used instead?