So my joystick seems to be doing this snap-back thing now that’s getting pretty annoying. Its a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK Joystick. Basically what happens is if I let go of it while its being held to the left, it will snap back and hit right before coming to a rest. It didn’t do this when I first got it.
Is there anything I can do to fix this, or should I just buy a new joystick?
recently got a pack of qd’s http://www.etokki.com/image/cache/110%20QD-500x500.jpg, how do i properly crimp these types?
I’ve never personally bought these but you need the right crimper for them.
http://shoryuken.com/f177/-akihabarashop-jp-now-open--108982/index28.html
HOZAN Products > P-706 CRIMPING TOOL
Get a new spring. I know it sounds like it’ll only make it worse, but, on the contrary, a tighter spring makes it snap back into and stay in neutral better, because even though it’s popping back with more force, the spring tightness is higher, and able to stop it before it hits anything else. JLF springs are pretty weak. You can replace it with whatever spring you like, really, so you can get a tightness you like best. Heck, try a few different springs so you don’t just pay a bunch of shipping for one. Just not a Happ spring. They have the problem because the springs are so tight, they rebound more than what the spring can stop. That, and they’re just a pain to play on.
Or a good fine pair of needle nose pliers can do the trick. Strip a little bit of insulation off of the end of the wire, shove it so the bigger tabs are over insulation and the little tabs are over exposed wire, squish down one of the small tabs, then the other, smoosh tight, then repeat for the bigger tabs.
Use an Open Barrel Crimper like the Hozan P-706 that Kyle linked.
Use use pliers like Toodles say.
I use a Crimper.
rtdzign didn’t reply to you.
sorry jdm714. my eyes crosses when i read on the computer screen.
thanks jdm714
/excuses
Thanks for the reply, jdm714! My parts just came in today and even now I’m a little amazed at how easy it was to just swap out and drop in. Although what really amazes me is just how drastic the feel seems to be between the stock madcatz part and the Sanwa! I don’t think I had any idea it would feel so much better, even with the square gate(although after experimenting I think my preference is for the octo-gate like I had thought it would).
The unexpected level of difference(I mean, I expected better, but not this much) has made me reconsider replacing the stock push buttons as well. All I need to do is decide on a color scheme, which is my only reason for not having ordered them by now already(noticed cyan seems to be a very popular color for some reason, and people have weird pattern layouts criss-crossing their button colors) 
I do have one more question though: Will the Seimitsu 35mm ball tops (specifically the bubble tops) screw in fine on top of the Sanwa JLF? My instinct would be to think so as I can’t imagine a diferent way they would connect to each other, but it seems prudent to ask before I make a mistake on a bad assumption
Yes, Sanwa feels cooler than stock Mad Catz.
Now you know the difference.
Laugh.
Just you wait on the Buttons!
All Hori, Sanwa, Seimitsu, Mad Catz Ball Tops interchange between each.
what are the buttons i use for semitsu inserts?
Seimitsu PS-14-K or PS-14-KNs.
Can also use for Seimitsu PS-14-GN(???).
i recommend PS-14-GN’s because its not the transparent bodies. I only recommend it if you do LED light up buttons.
Reasons are purely aesthetics…
question about the guide button for an xbox 360 only case.
On a custom case i was thinking of only drilling two 24mm holes on the side for start and back (im being cheap because i only have 2 24mm buttons left haha). is there a way to wire up the two buttons so i can use the guide feature also? i was going to use a wireless controller pad haked for the xbox pcb. Is this possible? and if so how would i wire the set up to be able to use the guide button.
11 ROLLS 1.4 AMP STRANDED EQUIPMENT WIRE 10 mtr ROLLS on eBay (end time 31-Aug-10 22:04:11 BST)
Is this wire suitable for Stick mods?
I’m not too hip on the metric measurements for wires, but according to this:
AWG to Metric Conversion Chart
the closest equivalent is 24 gauge stranded, which is perfect for most work. That size is the most common I use and should work fine for most everything.
(If you were only doing dual mods like adding a Chimp to an existing TE stick, then smaller may be easier to work with, but if you’re dealing with wiring up sticks and buttons and QD’s and screw terminals, that size is perfect. You can still use it for the Chimp+TE mod, but I like finer wire for board-to-board work.
