So even the blue Seimitsu Ball and the Blue OBSF Buttons don’t match?
Nope.
When a button randomly stops working, and then starts working again, is something wrong with the button itself or is something wrong with the wiring?
Don’t know.
You have to test it.
Move the Button to another set of wires.
If new position of Button is exhibit problem, then is Button.
If problem stays in original location, then it is wiring situation.
Yeah, My friend brought it for me from Japan last year, but there are similar ones in North America now. was hoping to pad hack it if its common ground…
If wiring is the situation, do I have to replace it and if I need to, were to I get it?
Edit: Yes this has happened to me before, I did replace switch buttons around when it started happening.
You cannot mod that stick with Sanwa parts. Not enough height for Sanwa Joystick. You need 1 3/4 inches height for a Sanwa stick. I recall that stick being 1 1/4 inches high. 30mm buttons do not fit in button holes, Perhaps 24mm buttons, but there is no room for the PCB. I used to have that POS.
I would suggest forgetting about the mod for that stick. The work involved, building a case would be easier.
Lizardlick.com or other online retailers usually carry both buttons and wiring components, i.e. wire that’s a usable gauge and quick disconnects in the proper sizes.
Cheapest route to a PS3 arcade stick?
Hey guys. I was reticent on joining this here forum as, to my understanding, this place can be rather brutal to the ignorant. I ask for a bit of lenience ahead of time.
I have run many searches and have lurked around. I haven’t found the answer that I am looking for, and I hope that a person can help address my concerns directly.
I am currently using the Intec PS3 Arcade Stick
I grew up playing in USA arcade cabinets. I could not, for the life of me, get used to the huge dead zone in the middle, nor could I adapt to the square gate. I opened it out and modded the gate to be round, but now I’m having troubles hitting the diagonals (surprise!). I could add some plastic card to the switches to make them activate sooner in the diags –
But I know that this stick is crap by vote of consensus. I picked up a Gamestop PS3 Pad (the one that lights) for CAD $20 hoping to strip out the PCB and use that, in conjunction to make my own stick by ordering parts from the Internet.
I intend to try and get used to the Japanese square gate for many reasons. I think, that perhaps the ‘crap-like’ quality of the stick I have has mostly impeded on that success.
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I want to save $$$. The TE stick is too frivolous a spend for me when I may end up buying a circular / octagon adapter for it,thus voiding any warranty.
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I’m quite good with electronics. It’s been a long time since HS, but I still remember much of it.
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I am a DIY-er. I see value and creativity in making my own things. (I build models as a hobby)
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I want a great stick that I won’t grow out of.
5) I don’t really know where to begin. I am faced with many options - too many.
I am now aware that I can probably use a generic USB game pad, or even a PSX controller to cheaply graft a PCB for use onto my would-be stick. There is an issue of adapting a non-USB (PSX/PS2) controller. I can get a PSX controller for free - however, I am also aware of the lag that is produced by using such a device - which is sometimes as small as 1 frame to downright horrible.
Which PCB should I use, especially bearing economy in mind? Should I buy another Intec arcade stick which costs only $20, strip the PCB from that and keep the buttons and stick as extras (maybe they can be used as start/select buttons!) in the coming stick?. Should I look to converting a PSX/PS2 controller into a PS3 stick with an adaptor? Or do I use a made-for-PS3 controller (official or otherwise) and go from there?
There are so many options out there! I’m really stumped!
They’re not brutal but they do tease a lot & they are very knowledgeable. Specially that person with the forum name that starts with a “J”.
From what I read, please check out Toodles’ Cthulhu PCBs. On the long run, it will save you because it can be updated.
If you’re going the custom DIY route, prepare not to be cheap, bcuz it will add up regardless. You will not spend less than $150 at the end of the day to get decent buttons/stick/pcb/case. You might want to consider starting off with an SE or Joytron and slowly upgrading it. Toodles pcb’s are the best to work with, followed by the paewang pcb (my experience at least).
You’ve already spent over $40 on cheap stuff, and end up spending even more trying to Voltron a stick out of random parts.
The Easiest solution (if you live in the US) is to buy a TE or SE on sale when they pop up from time to time… That or bite the bullet, save some cash and build a stick from scratch. The satisfaction of your hand made stick is worth it alone, and you’ll know you can upgrade/fix/mod it at anytime you want without worrying bout warranties.
Tread lightly going down this path either way - once you go down this road, you may end up addicted to building/modding sticks… in fact, sell the game and run away… That will save you the most money 
Twinkle, you called?
Laugh.
Landwand, you are having trouble with Diagonal on Circle because that Joystick not made to work with Circle.
There is a special diameter that exists for the Cardinal and Diagonals to be equal.
I don’t know what tools you have.
But people who make their own Arcade Sticks spend more than price of TE.
Warranty on the TE does not matter.
It really is nothing to worry.
Mad Catz even fix problem if should arise after you open the TE.
I super suggest you get a Cthulhu as PCB if you want PlayStation 3 Arcade Stick.
If you want to use a Converter, then use PlayStation PCB, do not get PlayStation 2.
Here is my highly recommended Converter.
http://www.etokki.com/iNPiN%20PS2%20to%20PS3%20Converter
Reason why not use PlayStation 2 Controller is because it is not cool.
First, it is not Digital, but Analog; I don’t mean the Analog Stick, but the inputs are Analog.
Second, it is not easy to solder to; the points are really tiny, and have to do other things to make work.
So, make a Case.
Get a Cthulhu PCB.
Wire up with Joystick and Buttons.
Do not go custom to save money.
Custom anything in life that is of quality is rarely cheaper.
Custom Furniture cost more than Ikea
Custom Motor Vehicles cost more than buying it off the lot.
Custom Built Houses cost more than buying in a prebuilt house neighborhood with 3 models.
Maybe the exception is PCs, but in truth you are not actually building much, just assembling standardized parts.
Cheapest route, find a Madcatz SE and buy Sanwa parts. Check out the trading outlet or ebay.
You might be lucky and find a case for you stick under $60.
I’m going to try to talk you out of #3. Because it seems to you value #1 more.
If you insist on building a custom here is the absolute minumum tools:
Drill $50-150
30mm and 24mm forstner bit for wood ~$20 from woodcraft.com
Hand Saw ~$20
Table G Clamps ~$25
Wood Plexi and other materials ~$25 Depends on wood.
If you buy MDF ore exotic wood and don’t want to get sick, now you need a respirator mask $20-30.
A proper wood working table that can be used to clamp things down on.
Glue and fasteners. $10-$20
Wood File for rounding edges $10
Sandpaper for finishing. $8 for various grits if you can buy them in individual sheets.
Paint or finish $10 depending on what you get.
Add $50 because there is always something that you forget. Always.
Im sure you will be unhappy with your first attempt, but it is too late, you still have a chance to get out of the rabbit hole.
But now you want rounded edges on your arcade stick.
Get a Router and a Router table $100-300 right there. Oh yeah you need a round over router bit. $20-$50. You say you want a chamfer router bit too? $20-$50. Oh yeah a straight bit for plunge routing. $20-40.
Also on second stick you now want straight cuts. Hello $200 table saw.
And now you want straight holes. $200 Drill press.
So right there with the basic tools you already spent more than an SE, and we have not even talked about a pcb and electronics.
I thought I had it easy when I bought 2 PS3 TE’s with some mad money i just got, and wouldn’t need to worry bout sticks anymore, but then my friend wanted to make a custom stick (after playing with his Intec). So I was very happy to oblige.
If you would have seen our work area (I think i’ll post a pic later) you’d be amazed that sticks (or anything) were actually built in that garage. We borrowed just about every tool we could to keep the costs down.
I now have 3 sticks and just picked up a DIY case to make my 4th, and I’m very VERY certain i’ll be building a few more before its all said and done…
as for your concern about Square Gates - Learn to like it. I got a JLW (stiffer Jap stick with balltop) with a Round gate and while I loved the JLW, I loathed the Round Gate because it make it very hard to hit diagonals.
Anyone ever used contact paper to cover a stick? I thought about using some on an old T5 stick but wasnt sure how durable it is. If anyone has used it before can you tell me if it is strong enough to cover button holes.
Thank you for the replies! I appreciate the words of those that came before.
To clarify, I was hoping to make my own stick from scratch. I don’t intend to purchase a case or kits. I intend on making them out of wood. I have a few power tools, but my friend has everything under the sun. The difficult part with having his help is that he is seldom available - but that’s besides the point. He has everything from planers to biscuit joiners to drill presses, lathes and sharpeners. I was thinking about making my first stick rather utilitarian; there’s no reason to have lights, artwork or all that bling (although the prospect is incredibly tempting!) just yet.
I was thinking that I need about eight buttons and a quality stick - and an old controller from which to rip a PCB from. It sounds like a pretty good deal when you compare it to the $110 + 13% sales tax that a TE stick runs for. (I have not seen the SE stick available in person)
This is my math:
~$60 Canadian dollars for a stick + buttons from Ebay (or any other source… I haven’t found any cheaper yet) $20 for a PCB from that lighting Gamestop controller of mine. Since I already own tools, wood and plastic of various types, clamps , tools, primers and paints I won’t factor that in.
So… $80 for parts. At the most, I’d save about $45 - which is not bad, mind you. But it may be another $20 for things of unforeseen expenses such as nuts, bolts, hole saws and all that fun jazz. So maybe this is not as going to be cheap as I hoped it would be.
I, myself, have a hand power-drill, saws, two Dremels, a scroll saw, and an orbital saw. However, I have free access to almost every tool imaginable (with an inconvenience factor).
Thanks, rtdzign; I had not thought of getting a SE stick and just modding it to suit me. Frankly, it looks small and cheap-ish. But the quality of the parts are pretty good, right? Definitely worth a thought - maybe two!
I’m also very glad to hear that voiding the TE stick’s warranty isn’t a huge deal. Huummm… this stick is looking a bit better to me already. The Cthulu PCBs seem to be out of reach for me at this time - they are awesome, but their price point destroys the point of this project - which is economy.
Further suggestions would be more than welcome!
Well since you access to a workshop go to slagcoin.com for a bunch of example builds.
Also make sure that the pad you get for PS3 isn’t a Madcatz rebranded Gamestop PS3 one. You may run into this problem.
http://shoryuken.com/f177/padhacked-ps3-controller-wont-register-left-direction-more-than-2-seconds-181894/
If you don’t mind wired and missing a home button you can get the $10 Komodo controller linked here. Just use home on your regular pad.
http://shoryuken.com/f177/cheap-ps3-controller-common-ground-pcb-247008/
You asked in the right place, which shows some smarts on your part. No brutality needed or warranted.
If you had asked in the ‘show off your new stick’ thread, yeah, maybe some brutality
If you’re in the situation where money is very tight, but you have lots of time to do the work on the case, then building the case may be in your best interests, but I think you may be underestimating how much work and time is involved in making a case, especially since history tells me you wont be happy with the first, like your second a bit better, and won’t really be happy until your fourth or so when you get the kinks worked out of your design. If you want MAKING sticks to be your hobby, then go right ahead. But if you want playing the games to be your hobby, and just want a stick to play on, I really have to stress that picking up an SE, maybe second hand, would be a better choice. Play for a while until the existing parts crap out or start to annoy you, and then upgrade the parts. I’ve seen SE sticks go for less than $40 US before. Doing some sale hunting for a week should be able to land you one for roughly the same, and you can postpone the parts upgrade for a while, maybe indefinitely.
Actuator problem
I already posted this in someone else’s thread, but it hasn’t been replied to yet, and I’m impatient; I don’t even know if this is the right thread to post it in. Yesterday I took apart my fighstick to move things around and accidentally smudged a little bit of grease/lubricant off the actuator. Now the left button on the microswitch is a lot less responsive and usually inputs moving to the right as a dash forward. What kind of lubricant would I need to re-apply exactly and how much should I apply?
Silicone-based lubricant, like the stuff they sell at LizardLick. Use a little. One tube 'ought to last you forever.