thanks PatakaReada and AOS-,
very helpful
If you don’t want to use a 4.3k by itself, that’s fine. Use a pair in series like you asked about. The explanation why a 4.3k by itself would work is long and tedious. It just will.
Couldn’t find this in a faq.
What is the best way to hookup my PS3 to my computer monitor so it has the least amount of lag as possible. My monitor has only a dvi and VGA port. So I can’t connect the HDMI directly. I will obviously need a hdmi to dvi or vga converter of some kind. So is either better (VGA or DVI) in terms of lag? And will this converter cause serious lag?
there is no way to know
there are thousands of converters in the world and they don’t all have the same qualities in term of picture quality, bandwidth thoughtput etc, as people usually don’t give a flying shit about that there is very little chance you get any precise data about that.
It is amusing the PS3 have only HDMI port, i know it is about HDCP protection (which btw is a total failure )
i would go all about what type of screen you have is a digital panel (LCD) or a analogic screen (cathodic)
you see cathodic have a refresh rate for a reason, since it is analogic information is not transfered as a bulk, it is transfered as a stream, on a cathodic screen refreshed a 60 Hz it takes 16.66 ms between the top left corner and botom right corner pixel are actuated.
So lets say your adapter is HDMI -> DVI and your screen is a CRT, it takes a few time to transfer data to get from your PS3 VRAM to the adapter (HDMI bandwidth is very high) then it takes some time to the adapter to convert digital HDMI into DVI (that delay no way to know but probably negligeable) then in your monitor the screen has to read the signal from the digital data bulk and develop it into a complex wave lasting 16.66ms, there is a fair chance you ll have between 0.5 and 1.5 frames of display delay.
but if you have a LCD the only delay you get is what is happening in the converter and i am pretty sure that doesn’t last very long (probably way less that half a frame)
the problem is the other way round with a HDMI -> VGA -> Digital screen.
Your have a fast output from the console, frame data reaches the converter pretty fast (HDMI bandwidth) but then it has to be developped into a complex wave lasting 16.66 ms, on the receiving end the monitor gets that stream and turn it back into a digital bulk that is suitable for it to display, and it cannot displaying anything before it has received and converted all the complex 16.66ms wave. so again you get random delay from the converter (probably close to nothing) but at least frame delay from the VGA to digital process
in a nustshell we can anticipate that :
BEST
HDMI -> HDMI TV
VERY VERY GOOD
HDMI -> DVI converter -> LCD screen
HDMI -> VGA converter -> CRT screen
VERY GOOD
HDMI -> VGA converter -> LCD screen
HDMI -> DVI converter -> CRT screen
NOT SO GOOD
any of the above variation with a low quality component ( converter, monitor’s converter, monitor’s processing (not in CRTs), Monitor scaling (not is CRTs))
But i think you really are on a fool’s errand if you cared about input/display lag you would certainly wan’t to avoid PS3, and try playing on a PC with a decent 120Hz/180HZ gaming screen a powerfull GPU capable of 180FPS in 1080p@180Hz FPS throughtput and Ps/2-full speed USB quality controllers. It is not like if a PS3/ XBOX 360 can come even remotely close to that kind of perfs.
OK.
So yeah, get yourself an HDMI -> DVI cable and plug it in via DVI. There is no loss in quality because there is no transcoding going on. HDMI essentially carries a DVI signal with audio. You will need to use another cable to get the audio out, like optical or the RCA outs from the PSX port.
Lag-wise there is generally not much if any difference between HDMI and VGA on a computer monitor, but this depends on the model.
in that case, 4.7k’s should work just fine shouldn’t they?
any spring strecthing tutorials. i know thats hella noob just trying not to jack it up
Unsure if this is unsafe in any way; directional inputs from the joystick and buttons will be sent to both a wireless Dual Shock 3 PCB, and a Wired Gamecube PCB… is that a bad thing? I heard something about grounds touching the others is bad or something… or was that the “dont have both pcbs connected to both consoles at the same time” thing?
PS3 DS3 is not common ground. You need Project Leo board to make it common ground. But that’s moreover for PS3/360 wireless dual mods. But it makes DS3 common ground.
eh? So what did I do wrong in that diagram and what should it look like?
Means you have to use Hex Inverter and Analog Switch to make the PCB be Common Ground.
Or what other ways like Transistor and Resistor, or even Optocoupler.
Because you are Dual Mod, both PCB has to be Common Ground.
The Dual Shock 3 is not Common Ground.
Use AXISdapter to make it so.
http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-axisdapter-thread-sixaxis-ds3-hacking-made-easy-only-pack-avail-170294/
Or the Leo Board from Gummowned like Nerrage said.
http://shoryuken.com/f177/project-leo-sixaxis-wireless-360-dual-mod-194525/
Damn… more ordering? Thanks for the answers, I’ll take out the Gamecube pcb off if it requires more stuff to be pruchased… it was mainly included so that he could play TvC with it. I guess I can just swap the pcb on my old stick with a 1st party ps1 pcb insteada the generic one im using.
so I can use 4.7K resistors instead of 7.5Ks?
err, I want to try modding an old ps1 asciiware stick. as in this one http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/511egvM8r1L.SL160.jpg. how hard would it be just to replace the stick and buttons? also who sells cases around here? also I want buttons that are like the originals, as in no rings around them so they fit.
Has anyone worked with a Hori classic controller pro before? Model number is E156176 I believe
I’m not sure if this is in the right place, but do Sanwa and Seimitsu use the same shades of colors for their merchandise?
Do not.
okay so my round 1 TE stick is acting up. When i’m trying to text a message or i’m on the xbox dashboard the stick keeps goin to the left and i’m not even touching it. I even swapped the stick with another one…and it’s still doing the same thing…please help…
Check the stick connection, see if the wiring from the stick to the PCB is not f’ed up. If everything is dandy, then you might just need a new PCB for your stick.
Really appreciate if someone would answer my question…
how hard would it be to mod an old asciiware with some sanwas? I’ve never done this before!
Also, flat topped, ringless buttons. tried googling them, got nothing.
Is that the one for the Wii?