Sorry for quoting myself… Still need this answered…
@ SOVAman :
LL sells them individually, so if you buy a quantity of 1, you only get one button. And LL is probably the best website to buy them.
Normally questions go unanswered because there are already Threads/guides dedicated to your specific question, and they happen to be pretty easy to find if you look just a bit closer. You don’t even have to search sometimes.
Pro tip - check the stickies
http://shoryuken.com/f177/wood-workers-thread-191757/
I think you can find your answer there. i know i’ve seen a similar question before on that thread…
Well I eather have or can borrow the tools so i just need to know how to get a pluge so it can go into the system, what every will make the fightstick work for the system, the buttons, wires, and the joystick. I plan on making 8 holes at the top of the system. 6 for each botton and 2 for start and select/back. I also plan on traiding to save some money. so what i need to know now is what parts make up a fight stick.
I beleave that its just one button, thats just a pic of the back and front of the bottons. Also most of the bottons will be the same at any site
You have some work ahead of you here for all that…
its a little more with a 360 since (please correct me if i am wrong) you need to pad hack a 360 controller to make it work along with installing a pcb unless you have a 360 pcb already from another stick.
look at the forums and find out the initial cost through lizardlick.com or some of the other arcade vendors that speak with the community…
after you get your materials all together there are threads all over this forum to show you how to wire them up and put everything together…but like rtdzign said before it could cost a lot more than you would be willing to spend on a school project.
buttons
pcb
360 controller
joystick
wire
barrier strip (makes things easier at times)
USB cord
thats about it… unless you feel like getting fancy.
well that sounds about right. One qustion is can I use I buy a wired 360 controller pad hack that and use the usb cord from it or would i have to just buy a wireless one open it up padhack it and just get the usb on line and go on from there. also the project is not due till 2012 so I should have the cash by then
Don’t see why you’d want a pcb AND a 360 controller, unless if you’re going to dual mod, in which case you’d need a switch, either DPDT, or Imp, but that’s the gist of the list. But, the purpose of 360 controller is to padhack, thus, you have the PCB for 360.
Also, yes, it would be more beneficial to use the existing USB cord that’s already soldered onto the pad. So you can scratch that, too.
The way i read his first post about it he wanted it to work on a ps2 and 360… shrug… looking at some of the dual mods out there i see that even with a hacked 360 pad they run the usb from the chimp/mc pcb.
To those that have done it, how do games like HDR and Marvel work if you use the data transfer kit for the 360. Those games won’t even work if I put my hard drive in another X-Box, so I’m kind of worried there would be problems if I moved them over.
Also, how do hard drive locked saves (such as Vanilla Fighter IV) fare under the same conditions?
Unrelated, but, you know how the cable on the TE has the end that’s removable? If memory serves, some original X-Box controlers had this as well. Would it be possible to just swap the ends out so I don’t have to make cables? Far as I know, both cables are USB and the X-Box 1 just has a different head.
is there a quick and painless way to change out the artwork in my SE fight stick? sry if this is a repeat but i didn’t want to sift through 1612 post to find the answer 
Seems as good a place to ask as any…
I’m designing a top panel and need to place symbols very precisely inside transparent Seimitsus. My question is:
What is the exact diameter of the inner plungers? Both 24mm and 30mm plunger sizes please.
Thx!
@CanadianDstryr no clue.
@drew, never touched or loked at an SE before, but I remember it’s stuck on due to adhesive, i say find some adhesive dissolving liquids. If it ain’t some super sticky industrial strength adhesive, i would have taken apart the stick and given the plastic shell a hot bath.
@ NRX, less than 24mm. You can cut ou whatever you want to place in there and trim whatever necessary.
I need resistors for the DS3, The Source doesn’t have resistors specifically in the range between 7.5-8.5k, I’m wondering if it is possible to solder 2 resistors that total in that range?
it would look something like this: [Terminal strip 3]---------(4.3k resistor)------------(3.2k resistor)----------[Terminal Strip 4]
http://shoryuken.com/f177/howto-add-custom-art-your-madcatz-standard-fightstick-178381/
Speaking of which, what size balltop do I buy for a Seimitsu LS-32-01 stick? 30, 35 or 45 mm?
Also, what are the dimensions for the SE template length X width?
35mm is the standard size balltop.
And according to the SE template psd, the size is a bit less than 12x8 inches.
Thanks pare!
Far as I know, in series, resistance is addative, so that should work just fine.
EDIT: Figured out the X-Box issue with moving games over. Apparently I just need to move the licences to my next console via their website. However, there’s no info on their site for harddrive locked saves, so I’m probably screwed. Anybody know if Super’s save is locked like Vanilla’s?
You could, sure, but frankly there’s not any need. Just use those 4.3k resistors by themselves and it’ll work fine.
You could fit a print out on glossy laminated 8 1/2 x 11 piece of paper. I did this. Heh.
oh? Because slagcoin’s diagram said to use 7.5-8.5k ohm resistors.what’s up with that then?