Nope, only one of four is Ground.
Only one of four is Signal.
You have to use multimeter to find out.
Or just look at the diagram.
I could only find a diagram for the common ground standard one. Does it work in the exact same pinout for the SF fightpad?
http://shoryuken.com/f177/soldering-madcatz-sfiv-fightpad-179270/
Thought you already knew.
Was wondering why you ask question.
Basically on the common ground pad they have on Akihabara, the solder points look different to the SF pad. So I wasn’t sure where exactly I had to solder.
found a picture on the thread. Thank you.
Hey guys! I’m actually looking to possible get a stick. After reading the beginning of this thread seems like the MadCat SE is good, but usually have to replace the stick and buttons. I was alittle confused about the TE and the HARP’s. The TE second edition looks pretty cool. Are the sticks in them usually pretty accurate? Thanks
TE and HRAP have Sanwa JLF Joystick.
People replace the Joystick in Mad Catz SE with Sanwa JLF.
Thanks! Say something would happen to it, safe to say I’d need to get another JLF or is there other joy sticks that work?
Sanwa JLF, Seimitsu LS-32-01, LS-40-01, LS-55-01, LS-56-01.
Seimitsu LS-32-01 using the default SS Mounting Plate.
Seimitsu LS-40-01 swapping out default RE Mounting Plate for SS Mounting Plate.
Seimitsu LS-55-01 using the default MS Mounting Plate.
Seimitsu LS-56-01 swapping out default VF Mounting Plate for MS Mounting Plate.
Indeed, the SE is more of a “economy” stick, so that people who aren’t serious about spending money can still get a deal on a stick, but it takes a huge hit in quality. However, you can replace all of the parts easily with high quality Sanwa and Seimitsu parts. It costs about $50 to replace all of the stock parts with Sanwa or seimitsu parts, slightly higher if you want specialties, such as octogates, specialty buttons, artwork, etc.
HRAP3 has a Sanwa stick, but Hori buttons, which affects quality some. Easily replaceable, since non-licensed HRAP sticks have Quick disconnects, but licensed (such as a HRAP BlazBlue edition) versions have their buttons soldered to a PCB, which makes for harder replacement. Plain HRAP3 can be switched quickly with quick disconnects. Don’t get their Fighting Stick line, it’s much harder to mod if you want to up the quality, which it doesn’t have as much to begin with.
TE has all Sanwa parts, everything is easy to replace and mod, but the initial quality is great from the get-go. You can usually find sales for them at $100, especially for the R2. Our own MarkMan advertises when there are deals for the $100 shipped Round 2 TE. However, you just missed a special that ended on the 10th and the next chance for one will be next month, as MarkMan says :sad:.
The best, most responsive stick is the TE, or the Hori HRAP3 VLX edition. The VLX is the most expensive, but the perk of it, besides all sanwa parts, and a HUGE amount of stick space, with a lot of weight to it, is that you can change the parts without voiding your stick’s warranty, the PCB is encased separately from the buttons.
Also, just in case you didn’t know, Sanwa is authentic Japanese arcade quality parts. So is Seimitsu, but if you want Seimitsu parts, you’re going to have to do a mod job.
Wow thanks for the info. I think I’ll be going for the TE then.
Stop following me around Nerrage!
And what Seimitsu modify?
I don’t know of any modification to use Seimitsu in VLX.
I just meant “mod” in the lightest sense of the term. Of course it’d fit. It has universal mounting brackets (though they don’t look like the “typical” brackets). And you answered while I was typing!
You are just using my answers to answer back to me my question to you.
Laugh.
So what is the mod still?
Now you’re confusing me with my words that I’ve answered you with the answers that you asked me to memorize to be possibly randomly quizzed.
And I think we’re not helping anybody at all. Heh.
Thanks Nerrage didn’t see your post the first time. Ya I did see the post Mark made today, sad I wasn’t on here sooner in the month to see it.
Hay I was thinking about doing my high school project on how to build a joystick. I wan’t to make a fightstick out of a a broken 360. I’ve seen It been done befor so I wanted to try it, only problem I have is that I don’t know were to start exactly. I want it to work on eather ps2 or 360. so I was just wondering what I need and how much should it cost.
i’ve dreamt about gutting the 360 case myself. i’m glad I turned it down, there’s a lot less space than I thought…
Screwdrivers: You’ll have to gut the insides from the phat ps2 or 360
Drill + a few varying bits: drill holes for buttons and the joystick, and possibly for the back stuff (start, select, home button, hole for cord)
Sandpaper (optional): possibly for touchups here and there.
Wires: for your buttons
PCB: likely to be a ripped PCB, so you’ll need an existing controller.
Solder: to the signal points & if you got no QDs, soldering to the buttons’ prongs.
Glue (optional): Hot Glue? to hold loose articles down.
Wire Strippers or a pair of pliers, Soldering Iron, Hot Glue gun, Crimper if you got QDs…
i feeel i’m missing something.
If you don’t already have the tools it could cost you $200-$400+ by the time you are done. You have been warned.
Luckily, dad already got enough tools to make stuff 
I just borrow whatever.
I’m new to arcade sticks and things like that, and my buttons broke on my madcatz fight stick (which I expected since they are cheap). I am looking for a good place to buy buttons and someone recommended lizard licks but I am a little confused on a few things.
Sanwa OBSF-30, 30mm Pushbutton, Dark Blue
That’s a link to the buttons I am planning on buying and I was wondering if this comes with 2 buttons or 1?
Also is this the cheapest/best place to buy them?