Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Hey y’all.

I’ve got a quick question regarding HORI Real Arcade Pro Stick 3 (Tekken 6 Design).

What design/layout is this exactly? Cause it’s not HRAP2/3/EX. I can ensure you that since I got plexi and art for HRAP2/3/EX that doesn’t fit this stick.

Can anyone in any way confirm if this is HRAP1/T5 design/layout?

I dropped my project of modding this stick after replacing the craptastic HORI-buttons with Sanwa and minutes later realize and rage over how my art+plexi didn’t match.

Thanks in advance for any help.
-Fogelstrom

I have a Hori Tekken 5/Arcana Heart 2/RAP2SA and I can assure you the Tekken 6 stick’s button layout doesn’t match either of the aforementioned sticks. You might need to talk to arthong about sending your metal top panel to get a plexi for it.

Rather just buy a new stick from scratch and sell this one then.

Thanks for your input Kazujiro

HRAP Tekken 6 does not use Astro City or the first HRAP or Vewlix or whatever.
The HRAP Tekken 6 uses the Layout seen in Tekken 6 arcade machine.

Hey guys, question. What’s the best way to go on painting/staining a wood stick case? I just got poplar wood case from satek and I was thinking of painting/staining it. What’s the best way to go about that? Thanks in advance.

**Alright in the next few days i’m going to be getting my TE stick from gameshark so I have a question.

From what I can tell by looking at all the guides, the TE stick comes already with a Lami-label kinda art already.

But everyone says using lami-label is horrible for the TE stick, how is it horrible if that’s what it comes with?
(that’s if the TE stick uses lami-label already like i’m thinking)**

TE doesn’t come with.
Not even close.

**That what is the peel sticker thing that’s in it?

Dunno, every single guide looks like lami label just with out the adhesive on the back its on the metal plate instead.
**

Lami-label is a name from Kinko’s.
It is a sheet of paper put into a lamination pouch.
And on the back of the lamination is adhesive backing.

TE does not use that.
There is no peel sticker thing.
It has art on a flexible plastic thing.
And the plastic is held onto TE by weak double-side tape on the corners.

**Oooh, so it’s plastic.

Thanks and yeah when I was speaking I wasn’t being literal with the details lol.**

A couple of quick questions.

If I’m using a Madcatz 360 SFIV fightpad, when soldering to a ChImp do I need to use the trigger inversion thingy majigy?

Is there any way to stop a ChImp and Fightpad jingling around inside your stick without doing extra drilling?

i ran into strange problem with a Ipac² used on street fighetr IV plugged in PS/2 on XPSP3 it causes the game to slowdown in the 55 FPS every now and then,
it is sad since other than that the response time and motion accuracy improvement is very noticeable compared to the HID USB padhack stick i used until now.

not coming from graphics
both cores of the CPU never get busy above 60%
fiddled with keyboard settings no effect
fiddled with accessibility options no effect
shutdown programs in background no effect
plugged a USB gamepad at the same time… no slowdowns when playing with the USB Pad it is really only happening when i play with the Ipac² geared stick.

after googeling some time i found no one with such problems, everybody earning an I pac² seems absolutely delighted with it.

has anyone heard of something like that happening with Ipack or with Ps/2 keyboards ?

Either you paint or stain, most likely not both.

Paint in a nutshell. Sand, Sand, Sand going up grit sizes. Spray Primer. Dry, Spray Primer. Sand Sand Sand. Spay. Paint light, Sand, Paint, Sand, Paint, Sand.

For stain, you must google, there are a thousand techniques. There is also transtint wood dye. Cannot mix mosts stain with some finishes like polyurethene.

zip tie mounts.

Perfect, thank you~

Do not need Trigger whatever.

Thanks.

Quick question. I’ve seen pads soldered without removing the LT/LB/Start/Back buttons off a SF fightpad.

I can’t quite wrap my head around how I’d go about that :X

Don’t those just fall out when you remove the casing?
Or do you mean the actual tactile switches?

You solder Start and Back from the back of PCB.
You solder LT and LB from the back of PCB also, yes.

Right, so just remove the solder already there and resolder?

You do not have to remove.
Just solder onto the back.

Alright, it’s just there’s 4 points of solder attached to each of the buttons, I just need to pick one and solder onto it, right?