Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Joystick is same.

If you get a Joystick like Sanwa JLF and Wire Harness, then it has five wires.
One wire is for Ground, the other four for the Directionals.
Just match to the labeled Slots of Cthulhu or Dual Strike.

Or if you get a Joystick without a PCB, but four individual Microswitches, then you have to connect eight wires.
You will connect the wires by soldering or by using .187" Quick Disconnect.

The Ground Terminals of the Joystick Microswitch can be Daisy-chain like the Buttons.
Or you can choose not to.

Is there a propper way to cimp QD’s to the wire?

ok so do you know much about the revolution pcb? it says it works ps3 360 pc without any mods to it? does it have a downside lol like it shorts after a week.

A Crimper Tool is best.
I like the ratchet ones, instead of the plier ones.

Good Crimper Tool can do the double crimps.
You know, crimping two parts of a Quick Disconnect.

No problem.

In a pinch though, you can use pliers to Crimp QDs to the wire. Just be warned that if you do, you’ll probably need extra QDs because you will break some.

So I bought one of these for the 360 last week. All the switches, guide, turbo, face buttons, stick work great, only problem is that the start and back buttons don’t work. Now, what I want to know is, either:

a) if there’s something that I’m missing about some undocumented start+back lockout feature that isn’t related to the lock switch (was the first thing I checked, obviously) or

b) if the buttons are in fact broken, how easy would it be to fix? How could I troubleshoot the thing?

I’m not gonna be shy about ordering new parts or soldering here… I’ve been looking for an excuse to start practicing that again.

Open it up and make sure the wires for the problem buttons are connected / haven’t fallen off. If they are, try manually bridging the circuit with a piece of wire. If that doesn’t work, there’s a PCB problem. If it does, you need to replace your buttons.

Thanks for the advice! So if the PCB is fucked, where can I get my hands on another one?

edit: Shorting the terminals sends input, but I don’t know how to actually take the start/back buttons out. I’ve sat here for like a half hour with a tiny screwdriver and all I have are painful fingers.

SECOND IMPACT EDIT: I got one of the buttons out. Dear god is this the most annoying process of all time.

Noob to stick modding question!

The Sanwa OBSF24 buttons are 28mm in diameter, correct?

If so, can I use these in an Agetec/DC stick without hsving to dremel the button holes?

The holes for OBSF-24 need be 24mm.

Hmmmm…so then are the holes on the Agetec/DC stick 28mm or 30?

I was thinking about modding my Agetec/DC stick and a friend e-mailed me some links to help and I came across this:

Sanwa Push Button 28mm (OBSF-24) - Push Button - Spare Parts - Arcade Video Game Coinop Sales - Coinopexpress

Just want to make sure before I place my next order.

ChImps do not work with gamecubes but MC cthulhus do right? My custom stick is ChImp-ed and I wanted to make my TE compatible with my gamecube (Naturally going to need the wire too X3 but that’s easy-street).

Correct. FAQs in the first post of the Cthulhu thread (URL in sig) should cover that and a whole bunch more.

Awesome. I keep losing that link. It needs to get stickied @_@

Holes of the Agetec Dreamcast are 28mm.

Holes of Sanwa OBSF-24 need be 24mm.
Coinopexpress says 28mm because they measuring the Rim, not the Body.

They even have a diagram.

http://www.coinopexpress.com/testing/getimage.php?product_id=2196&ss_id=4782

Ahhhhhhhhhhh, I see. Thank you.

I’ve got a couple questions, all of witch are about swapping out parts on my TE.

The Balltop, that’s a screwoff, right? Only reason I ask is because it seems like the ball is slipping when I turn it and I’m not making any progress when I turn it.
As an aside, will most of the balltops on lixardlick, unless stated otherwise be compatable with my stick?

As for buttons, I was told I should “file down” new buttons before I install them. What exactly does that mean?

Ball Top can be screwed off, yes.
You are putting screwdriver to the slot on bottom of Shaft?

If you are, maybe the Thread in Ball Top is loose. :sad:

EVERY Ball Top on Lizard Lick will work.
Even Bat Top.

Thanks for the quick reply, as it turned out, my friend’s stick had a top that screwed out from the ball rather than under the hood. I’d just assumed the TE top was the same.

Anyway, one last question, how can I go about swapping out my spring for something stiffer than the TE standard?

[media=youtube]L67fUfH3S5o[/media]

http://shoryuken.com/f177/home-depot-springs-extra-tension-sanwa-jlf-188169/