Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

You guys know of any beginner tutorials on soldering pcbs? I want to get into modding but I feel like i’m starting from the beginning.

I have a question about dual-modding a 360 TE stick. What is generally regarded as the easiest way to do this? I have been reading up and the best thread I’ve found seems to be this one: http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=203509 but its from last year and I can’t figure out if we’ve discovered an easier way or a different/better board since then. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

edit sorry wrong thread:)

Here is slagcoin.com guide to soldering pcbs
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html#SOLDERING

Dual modding was and never is easy. Here is the tutorial that everyone is using.
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=184787

Also I have a guide for a MC cthulhu version.
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=225565

Phreakazoid has something in development called “Project TEasy” Once this is done it will be easy.
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=234867

I have a question and i think this is the correct thread to reply i’ve looked through the forum and cant find a simple answer or if there is please can someone point me there :slight_smile:

I have the madcatz te stick for 360 and my joystick has broken on it for some reason it will not input the commands downforward and downback , everything else is fine , the reason it came about is it slipped off my knee and took a heavy hit to the back of the stick.
I think replacing the parts will be a cheaper alternative than buying a new stick. so my question is which joystick part do i actually buy to replace the broken one ? JLF-TP-8YT or JLW-UM-8?

tl;dr - which joystick can i use as a replacement in me TE: JLF-TP-8YT or JLW-UM-8?
thanks

Boggles

Te: Jlf-tp-8yt

Thankyou :slight_smile:

So…dual modding…what’s the cheapest and most effective way to get my 360 TE to work on PS3 too? I’m willing to do it manually if that’s the best way.

look 4 posts above yours.

I would look into this myself, but I’m at work and I barely have time to even ask this question. I want to swap out the square restrictor plate and replace it with an octagonal plate for my TE S joystick.

Right now, I’m looking at the Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor Plate. Is this one compatible with my TE S?

Yes.

I’m waiting for Lizard Lick to get their Seimitsu shipment, but I’d like to have this checked. I’m replacing the JLF in my TE S with a LS-40-01. If I’m not mistaken I’ll need to:

[list][]Buy the SS plate.
[
]Orient the stick so the PCB header is facing the same direction as the JLF’s was
[*]Flip the harness over before connecting it to the LS-40-01.[/list]

That sound about right?

Yes.

I got a Hauppauge HD PVR but since my PC monitor doesn’t have a component input I cant use it (the passthrough on the PVR is component only and using the software based preview introduces a 4 second lag).

My options are to either find a way to convert the signal from component to VGA/DVI or to get a new monitor.

I’ve been looking at the HDTV/Monitors (like this samsung one) but I’m being told it wont work well as a PC monitor unless it can do 1920 x 1200.

My questions are:

  • can a 1080p HDTV/Monitor run a signal at 1920x1080 from my xbox and something PC native like 1680x1050 from my PC?
  • Would it be easier/cheaper to work with what I have?

Thank you.

Hey guys i thought id share my design for my fighstick hobbie. Here is a template i just finished this morning in illustrator, the diagram will have more detail soon including all the wiring to the cthulhu so people can follow the wiring guide with no mistakes. I will also lable all the buttons so its a no brainer.

A few questions i need answered, what the recommended height for the cabinet? atm i have it safe at 60mm which is the TE2 height, id love it to be shorter. I need to get a hold of the Sanwa stick measurement, ill have a hunt around or just buy one soon.

Also need to know the measurements of the mounting plate for the universal plate for the sanwa stick as in the routered section (atm i have the size of the plate but need to know how large the hole needs to be), including the width of the hole for the sanwa 30mm buttons. I can work this out myself but i want some clarification. I will be having a thorough look on this tech section for my info as well…i not lazy lol just always like a 2nd opinion.

Thanks hope you like my design

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n231/crescenziomax/CustomFightstickmeasurements.jpg

I wouldn’t go below 2.5". Sanwa JLF is 36mm from bottom of the base to the mounting plate, mounting plate is 9mm and the shaft from plate to handle is 32mm. 36mm + 9mm = 45mm. Although the full length of the shaft isnt included part of it will be below so I’d add another 9mm for a total of 54mm.

Joystick holes are 24mm and holes for 30mm buttons are…30mm :slight_smile:

thanks thought so. I guess when im building i can make it all less just in case by like half a mil so the buttons fit tight.

Seeing that measurement of 54mm…60mm is ok them :D. Ill probs buy the parts and size it up for real soon and hopefully get this stick done mid June.

so jdm, what will i need to hook up?
i need to manually solder on connections for the triggers to the 4K_invert and 4P_invert connectors on the chimp?

how come i need to do this though? I thought if i didnt use them, I could just have RB be my 3P and LB be my 3K?

Because if you removed the Potentiometers, then the PCB would think the Triggers are active.
With the Potentiometers on, it keeps the Triggers neutral.

So if removed, would still have to do the Inverting and stuff even if not use.

from http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/9564/backlabeled.jpg

do i need to do anything with the wipers?