what do u think of this stick guys ? its a se stick but modded with sanwa parts. i would have got a te but this is in my range
This your third time asking that.
You’ve already gotten answers to it.
Intec Arcade Combat Stick - $20; as you probably know, I’m being the biggest cheap-ass ever, and am looking at ugly and cheaply priced sticks, because im lost as to why i want one, but don’t want to be chipping out money because i don’t have a job.
Think it’s possible that I just use this and arcade parts?
I found a SE on TigerDirect.ca, but fuck it’s 79$ i wonder if they’ll price match with buy.com
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4401868&Sku=MC10-0006
All Fighting Sticks from Hori modify same.
Hey Guys,
Pretty out of it question i got here, I have been playing SF since it was first released on the Mega Drive (Genesis) and have always been using a pad to play fighting games. Theres a tournament in my area that is about 3 months away and i want to upgrade to a stick, just because i have heard its easier to imput commands etc etc. The main drawback i have is that the top of my right index finger is missing (like if your finger was split into 3 parts, im missing the top third) and my middle finger cant bend at the top joint anymore because of a tragic accident.
Do you think i should get a stick and try and train with the tools i have or stay with my d-pad for the SF4 tournament. I usually just use a PS2 Controller
Ok guys, got two questions and I really don’t feel like making a seperate topic for it and take up space. These may have been answered before, but I’m on a short time schedule and don’t have time to look through everything. The questions are
- Bevel painting, what is a quick and easy way to do this?
and
- The Sanwa meshball balltop, what it the difference between that and a normal one?
Use Kylon’s Fusion Spray Paint. Spray evenly on the bezel/bevel, wait for it to dry, and go over it again with one or two more layers of coatings to get it all colored up.
Not much of a difference besides visuals. The Meshtop looks like Carbon Fiber, and it feels a bit lighter than that of a regular balltop, but does not change a thing besides making your stick look better.
Is there really a weight difference?
I don’t have any Meshballs.
I would weigh it I did.
To me it feels just like an ounce or two lighter than that of a regular balltop, I’ll see if I can weigh them when I get home later.
Hey Guys, new to the forums, so I apologize in advance for my general lack of knowledge. I recently got a hold of the Mad Catz SE Fightstick for 360, I plan to change out all the parts with Sanwa components. However, I wanted to add a little extra flare to my new stick. I want to add just 2 LED lit buttons for RB and LB, but I want them to be lit constantly (when it’s on, of course) as opposed to lighting up when I push it. Is there a way I can do this without an extra power source or too much soldering? What type of LEDs should I use? I tried the search function, alas I found nothing to really answer my question. Could someone point me in the right direction?
I already asked this question in another thread( http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=149015 ), it doesn’t look like anyone has been there for a couple of months though. Thought I might try here, Thanks.
Cool, and thanks for a quick reply. I’ve also heard good things about vinyl dye, although I hear it’s quite the bitch to track down. Your thoughts?
You didn’t even give your Post time in that other Thread.
Came to this one quick.
Laugh.
A normal LED will have two legs (electrode).
One leg is the Anode (+), the other leg is Cathode (-).
Generally, the Anode is the longer, the Cathode is the shorter.
If both are same length, then the side with a flat spot is the Cathode.
Some LEDs have the length switch, so do know that.
LED does not shine? Reverse polarity.
Now, when you purchase LEDs, there will be specs.
Like you will see 1.7V @ 30mA or something like that.
That tells the LED forward voltage and forward current.
To wire up an LED, you just need a power source.
Power will go to Anode (+), Ground will go to Cathode (-).
BAM! You got light.
But no, it cannot be that easy.
Too little power and LED not light up.
Too much power and LED will blow and die.
It is best to use power source same as the forward voltage.
This is where the 1.7V @ 30mA and stuff come into.
You will use Resistors to allow high voltage power supply to power LED.
But how to calculate what Resistor to use?
There is Formula, but I will not tell you.
Here is cool site.
http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz
So, you putting LEDs into your Buttons.
You can use the +5V from PCB.
The simple answer was in the Thread you made Post in.
You did not read the Thread?
Hehe, yah. Sorry about my haste, I seem to be afflicted with that disease…impatience. 
Anyway, I appreciate you helping me out. I did read through the other thread, alot of technological lingo that I am thus far unaccustomed with. So, I guess my next question is; Can I tap into the power that is lighting the pre-existing LEDs on my SE or would that be ill-advised?
I just weighed my balls.
The meshballs feel lighter to me too, probably because they look like carbon fiber and my brain expects them to feel lighter. But they actually weigh the same as a regular Sanwa LB-35.
I weighed whatever I had not currently mounted to a stick:
1 Seimitsu LB-30, 2 Seimitsu LB-35, 2 Seimitsu LB-39 (bubbletop), 3 Sanwa LB-35, 5 Sanwa LB-35 “meshball”, 1 Sanwa LB-30N (bat top), 1 Sanwa LB-45.
My scale claims to be accurate to 1 gram. Each type of ball weighed the same as all its counterparts.
Seimitsu LB-30: 17g
Seimitsu LB-35: 25g
Seimitsu LB-39: 30g
Sanwa LB-35: 27g
Sanwa LB-35 mesh: 27g
Sanwa LB-30-N: 29g (32g with adapter)
Sanwa LB-45: 52g (55g with adapter)
My green glass balltop from Numski weighs in at a hefty 56g.
I felt they would way same.
Thank you RoboKrikit.
Man, I want a Numbski. :shake:
Like a little gradeschool kid, i LOL’d… im so immature 
… but ya this is some pretty good reference material…
Yes you can, with the 5V that jdm just explained… All u need is the right resistor values for wutever leds u hav so that everything is fine and dandy… again explained by jdm… now with all that said, your probably wondering where to tap the power from… to answer that, follow the usb to where its soldered onto the pcb… look on the side where the wires are supposed to pop out (the side with all the shiny solder points) and the orientation I believe for the usb cable is as follows: 5V, D-, D+, GND, SGND (it should say so anywayz)… what you’ll tap is 5V… just solder an additional wire to that point to get power for ur leds… enjoy
Thank you very much!
Yup, that’s right.
The +5V is the red wire on USB.
Sorry, not sure about vinyl dye. I really haven’t tried vinyl dye, but if it’s dye, it would seem like dye would do a better job coating and coloring evenly, but seems like it would take a while to dry.
Anyone have a tutorial/guide to building a custom 360 stick other than slagcoin?