Whatever you do, don’t repaint over it as it currently is! lol The coat u put over that my look un-even in the defect area. Depending on how many coats u painted on the bezel, if u only did a couple or so u can use acetone to rub it off since its faster to just restart at square one. If u did many coats (im talking like its pretty thick) u shud probably sand it with the highest grit sandpaper u can get ur hands on and carefully even out the areas that need a new coat and then repaint all of it again for a clean, solid look… hope that helps… enjoy.
So I’m about to print my art and use this “lami-label” for the first time
How long do these last? When you cut it out you clearly break the laminate seal, how does this affect the longevity of the art?
Well theres not really an exact number of days or such for how long lami-label wud last but “with care” they should last a good while. I still have lami-label on my SE that i stuck on last year and its still looks good. For ur question on longevity, as long as u don’t get that area wet or leave ur stick in hot areas (i.e. under direct sunlight, in a car during a hot day,etc.) the lami-label shudn’t peel off or anything like that if thats what u r worried about. Again handle with care is the best motto… enjoy
I’m mainly worrying about the edges peeling up
What some people do is print the art.
Cut a tiny bit smaller than Metal Panel.
Laminate art and cut laminate to the size.
That way the laminate is sealed.
Will see Metal Plate slight though.
Trying to use my Hori EX2 on my PC to play GGPO, but it’s not working. 
I’m running Windows 7 64 bit, so i’m not sure if that’s got anything to do with it…but the EX2’s Guide button is just blinking. o.O
Quick question, fellas, how do I remove the Turbo/Guide area from the MadCatz TE and if I do remove it will all the other buttons function okay without any problems? (the second part of the question is dumb, I know)
I need to remove so I can customize my TE and not have to cut away the art.
You may need the guide button.
Couldn’t I just use the guide button on my 360 DVD remote?
For sure. Also , it is okay to remove the turbo panel. Not sure if you need to have the switch set to “D”, but you should.
Okay, I really registered here just to ask one question, since you seem to be the guys to ask about sticks. I don’t own one myself (yet) or know anyone that does, and haven’t really gotten to take a good look at one in person, so pardon me if I’m way off base in thinking this might be possible, since all I know of sticks at the moment is what I’ve seen in basic modding guides.
My question is this: Do you think it would be possible to build a small form factor PC inside the unit itself? It surely wouldn’t be an easy mod, and would require cutting vents and a hole for the backplate and stuff, but is it even possible? From what I’ve seen, it looks like the depth of the case serves just to fit the joystick, and there’s a fair amount of clearance on the button side. My thought is to mount a mini-ITX board to the base on the button side. Which stick on the market right now would have the most room inside to try something like this, and do you think it would be enough?
I hope this wasn’t a dumb question. The idea of ultra-portable arcade gaming is too cool to pass up without asking.
I have a 360 MadCatz TE and a Wii MadCatz TvC fightstick. I want to replace the ball tops with bat tops and install octagonal gates. Can I use the same parts for both? On Lizard Lick I’m looking at:
-LB-30-N Joystick Bat Top
-Sanwa Joystick Adapter
-Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor Plate
Yes.
So, I’ve been using a stick for a good 3 months now, and can finally say I’m better with it than I was with a pad. It’s been especially great since I play a charge character which requires a lot of df, db whoring.
However, my current problem is that I CANNOT pull off qcfx2 from the 1P side reliably and quickly. I use the modified wineglass grip (daigo style - shaft between ring and pinky, hand is vertical) and I have a lot of trouble with this motion.
From the 2P side, it’s extremely easy since all I have to do is flick the wrist back twice. But from the 1P side, I have to move the entire forearm so I can’t pull it off fast enough.
Anyone have any ideas how do pull the qcfx2 from the 1P side faster?
i had this problem a few times on windows 7 32 bit using a madcatz pad i just hacked and once on my ex-se. plugging it into a 360 and letting it become recognized seemed to fix it every time. appears to be a driver bug.
Im looking to get a video capture card to record games at a tournament. I currently have a asus VH236H monitor, Macbook Pro 13", and a Sony cybershot that shoots at 720p. I would rather get a usb or HDMI video capture card. I have googled searched but find usb to rca cable hook up and for windows only. Anyone who does record matches on tourneys please give me some insight and the cost to make this possible. Thank you.
Noob questions!
-When printing art to be put on a TE under plexiglas, should I laminate it? Will the extra thickness+plexi mess up anything?
-After the art is printed, how do I cut out the joystick and button holes (and screw holes, I guess)? I know the art is printed without the template markings (right?) so… should I just put the art over the plate, trace the lines, and go over it with an exacto knife?
Don’t need to laminate.
Why do that?
You are right on how to print.
Cut using Metal Panel or Custom Acrylic Panel as guide.
This is exactly where I am at. Quit pad a few months ago, struggled for awhile, now love it and can do everything better except this.
I have read this problem from many people, surely someone has some tips for getting through it? I practice it a great deal, im just hoping by brute force practicing it I can get it down.
Honestly there’s no tricks to it, just do it slowly and then start speeding up a little bit at a time until you can do it quickly…