i took a quick look and read the descriptions on Lizardlick… it looks like u’ll need a USB A/B Cable to finish the connection on the other end… hopefully that helps… have fun…
as toshinu mentioned…
you need a usb type a-b (type a to type b) cable:
you can easily find them at stores and online (best buy, home depot, walmart, target, ebay, etc.)
Hi there.
A while a go I was scammed on eBay, I sold my lovely working Madcatz arcade stick, the buyer complained it was faulty, and I had to agree to refund, he sent back the stick, which now had the little stickers on the bottom to show it hasn’t been opened broken, and the stick doesn’t work. I had no proof the buyer had done this, put it down to experiance and moved on.
Today though I though about trying to fix it? I’ve had a look around and found the parts I think I need, JLF-TP-8YT but before ordering, I was wondering if there is a way to find out if it is just my stick has gone, or if something more has gone wrong with it? Like wireing or something?
Cheers
Cheers
hmmm… i might hav an idea but b4 i can help ya i need more information… First off, is it only the “joystick” itself that doesn’t work (i.e. it doesnt register all inputs or any specific inputs like up,down,left,right when u play a game)? or is the whole “arcade stick” not working (i.e. the buttons, start/selct, etc don’t work either)? Second, since you said the arcade stick was opened, have you checked to make sure the joystick wire harness is connected/connected properly? and Third, which Madcatz arcade stick do you have? is it the Tournament Edition or is it the Standard Edition? With those clarified i might be able to figure out something with process of elimination…
Are my buttons wrong? Like I have a custom stick, as far as I can tell the wiring is good, but I have a big issue hitting PPP or KKK on it. Is this possibly an issue with my ground being set up improperly or anything like that, or can it be an issue with my buttons just not being seated properly (I have the ones where I put in the art so I did monkey around with them. When I press all three punch buttons it seems like I get light punch coming out separately an inordinate amount of times, is this something anyone else has experienced or am I just making myself to be a total idiot here?
EDIT: Could it be an issue with having the ground daisy chained between buttons? I mean that shouldn’t matter ultimately, right?
if it is an se, the white one. then maybe the pcb has been grinded. you can check. and then solder the trace to make it working again.
remove the baseplate. 6 screws
remove the joystick 4 screw at the corners with red junk. you may have to scrape it off.
remove the harness. the black wire thing with a white tip. it has 5 wires. i like to use a heater or hair dryer to loosen the glue on the white part about 6 inches away
get a flat head screw driver and plug it in the bottom of the shaft. hold the ball top handle and unscrew.
then watch my video to get to the trace.
Thanks.
It’s just the stick part that isn’t working. It doesn’t regognise any direction being pushed. all the buttens (A,B,X,Y,LB and RB) all work fine. Its the Standard edition stick. I’ll have a check to make sure its still connected up later too. Cheers.
Is the Switch set to DP?
Alright if its an SE then yeah ur problem may hav already been addressed by hacksparrow in his post above yours, another thing u can check too, as addressed by jdm714, is before u even check if ur joystick has the damages explained from above is to check if the toggle for ur joystick on the turbo/guide area is set to DP (if its set to RS it wont work, if its set to LS it may lag but inputs are gonna be there)… finally i’ll throw my 2 cents in as well… if ur problem isn’t the toggle and its mainly the joystick with the problems described earlier “and” u don’t want to go thru the process of fixing it u can replace the whole joystick with the one u found on ur first post. Since thats a real JLF (and not the fake clones they put into SEs) the quality is top notch and it’ll last longer… so with everything said and done u got some options on what to check/do… have fun
I bought a Madcatz SE stick about 1 year ago and just recently decided to mod it. Everything was going great until I tried to put in some OSBF-30s in place of the crap buttons; the things are giving me a lot of trouble because they seem like they are just slightly too large for the SE case. When I attempt to snap them in they become stuck with about a good centimeter of space between the outer edge of the button and the case. I had heard that they were usually easy to just snap into place, so this is making me wonder if there’s a problem with my case, or if I somehow got sent the wrong buttons. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Nothing wrong.
It may be the little nubs under the Rim.
Alright, so do I just use a little bit of force to get them in? That didn’t really seem to be working too well.
What’s up with quick disconnect thickness?
Almost no online stores list the thickness of their disconnects and on the ones I bought it doesn’t even say it on the package.
The real kicker is that some in the package fit on just awesome and others fall right off. Is this normal? Are you suppose to crimp the disconnect part too?
What’s going on with this.
Also this is completely unrelated but maybe I can get an answer anyway: I was talking to my dad on the phone and we were arguing about what color ground is suppose to be, he kept saying green and I could swear it was black. I think he may have been talking about eelctricity and me about computers/electronics. So my question is: Is green the ground for electricity and black for computers? Is this the answer to the discrepancy?
Your Dad is right.
In electrical work, Green is Ground, White is Neutral, Black is Hot.
if regular force is not getting the button rim to sit flush with the panel u can grind away those little nubs flat to get a better fit… have fun
I guess its normal, i’ve had the same thing happen to me when i bought a batch of QDs for some mods… the best thing i cud do with the loose ones was to get some pliers and clamp da curly part of the QD just a tad so that it cud fit and stick… hope that helps… enjoy
But in computer work is black usually the ground?
In computer, Black is Ground, yes.
I just got Art’s new Plexi Panel replacement for my HRAP3SA. I chose the 6 button layout because I never use the 3P/3K or L1/L2 buttons.
My question is can I wire cut the L1/L2 wires and will it still work properly or is there a smarter/safer way to get inside the stick and take out the wires without cutting them like you can with the TE’s?
you can cut the L1/L2 wires and other buttons will still work. cut it as close to the pcb.
also, instead of cutting, just wrap some electrical tape on the QDs and zip tie the wires somewhere so it’s not loose inside the stick (if you decide on using L1/L2 again down the road).
Hey guys quick question.
I have painted my Bezel for my TE but it seems that some of the paint rubbed off the Bezel. I really want to re-paint it, but I was wondering if I should either sand paper the paint off and restart all over again, use acitone to rub off the paint, or to just go over it with another coat of paint to fix the problem area.
Thanks to anyone who replies.