You’re kidding me… A lagless adapter?! Wow, I had no idea, that’s awesome! Well, there you go! 
Partially true, yes the Virtua sticks released for the Sega Saturn (during the Sega Saturn’s Product life) in the United States are dismal at best, the same stick was also in Europe. The exact same stick (with Japanese console coloration instead of all black) was released in Japan and asia, so that variation of the Virtua stick is not exclusive to the US.
The good Virtua stick, the Sega HSS-0136 used actual arcade parts, early models used Seimtsu parts, while later ones used knock off parts.
The version of the HSS-0136 that released for the Dreamcast are just later model modified Sega Saturn Sticks with a Saturn to dreamcast adapter inside (No VMU slot).
Not everyone has there replacement panel art printed out on Vinyl or laminated, but on regular paper.
Sweat and oils from your hands will destroy unprotected art. Hence why the Plexy comes in. The Plexy protects the panel art from wear, tear and sweat, oils and dirt. Sandwiching the art under a plexy is easier than using adhesive to apply the art to the panel. Also Plexy make it easier to replace the art, as bolts and screws (and offend buttons) just have to be undone instead of peeling off an destroying the old art.
So I own the SF4 TE Stick Seen below
http://unkool.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/sf4_te_controller2.jpg
and obviously it is for PS3 and I would like to dual mod it I was wondering what PCB would be best to dual mod it? and (if the 2 are different brands) Which PCB would be cheapest? and if anyone had suggestions/ ideas I willing to listen.
360 Brawlpad/Fightpad pcb + either a DPDT switch or an IMPv2 board (ordered from godlikecontrols.com)
Or you could just wait for the PS360+ board…
What about the “Paewang Revolution Multi-Console Joystick PCB”?
IMO they are unreliable and expensive if ordered from Korea.
If you can find a cheap Datel ArcadePro in your country, then cool.
360 Brawlpad/Fightpad + DPDT switch is the cheapest decent solution.
On the Sf4 SE Fightstick, does it matter what the stick is set to? (Left Analog Stick vs Directional Pad)
Yes, always DP is keep.
If you don’t mind, can you explain why?
From what I understand, LS and DP have different sensitivities.
Are there any multi-console PCB’s that allow you to change the joystick to the left analog stick or right analog stick?
And what PCB has a turbo function? How about that ‘Pressing Start + Select = Home/Guide’ feature?
So which one is more or less sensitive? I can’t really see myself which is which.
This is only a guess, but I’d say DP is less sensitive, because LS has nothing to stop it. Look at a d-pad and left stick on a controller.
Not really sensitivity.
It is how it acts due to emulation for a digital control.
All that is the Kitty from Toodles.
From this im assuming dpad is more accurate then?
There you go. Thanks for the clarification.
Yes.
LS will give lingering inputs.
RS won’t even work, because games do not use Right Analog for movement.
The LS setting on 360 TE boards (possibly PS3 as well, but I dont know.) has a weird delay to it; moving to a direction is speedy, but when you let the stick go back to neutral, it will still say the analog stick is off to the side for a few frames. DP mode doesn’t do that. Tech Talk is full of ‘OMG why is it so hard to do stuff on my TE?’ that are fixed just by using the DP setting.
So, recommended guide for that slider:
- Use DP.
- If you cannot use DP at all, use LS.
- Never use RS.
TE Kitty does both (for the consoles it supports that have RS and LS; PS3, Xbox1, Gamecube)
The Cthulhu and ChimpSMD both have the ability to report the dpad as the POV hat/Dpad, the X/Y axis, or the default which is both. They do not have a way to report it as the right analog stick, and I know of no reason why you might want it to.
Ninja’d. Teach me not to check if Im on the last page.
Before I continue, I use a FightPad/BrawlPad.
I’ve never noticed lingering inputs in LS. For the longest, I used DP, but just recently found out that DP and LS are different, myself. So, I tried LS and found that to be more precise than DP.
Thanks for the help, jdm714 and Toodles.
So the Chthulhu has turbo support? That’s the PCB I had my eye on.
I don’t really need turbo support or a right analog stick. I was just curious about both.