Wiring a Madcatz Fightpad/Brawlpad start here for how to wire up the pcb. I wouldnt touch the usb cord for the ground point if you’re not familiar with pad hacking. for mounting, zip ties is probably easiest.
Good Luck!!
Hi! I’m a total n00b!
I’ve got a QanBa Q4 and I’m a huge addictee of pinball games. I never thought of adding side buttons to my stick, but I’d love to! I know nothing of electrical wizardry, could I wire up the L1/R1 action to 2 additional buttons on the sides?
As a kid (seriously when I was around 9) I used to wire up multiple speakers to one channel. Blew loads of fuses. I wouldn’t want to blow my QanBa.
Cheers!
Its very easy.
Drill two holes where you want then, (24mm/30mm depending on the button size), run the L1/R1 Signal and the ground to each button.
You don’t need to worry about blowing anything, just be warned, i view that as a headache for accidental activation…
Thanks 
I’m gonna have an electrician friend sort it all out for me. He’s talking about cutting the wires going to the PCB and adding in a splitter.
This all seems surprisingly easy! I’d do it myself but for peace of mind I’d rather have a pro do it.
no real need for that, just solder to the existing solder points on the pcb, leave the existing wire intact.
Cool, my EX2 doesn’t have one of those strip things so would it be ok to just solder directly from the PCB to the buttons?
It’s a terminal block. Its there to help you understand which wire goes to where. It also has some functional use in case you want to remove your pcb from the stick without rewiring the stick, or if you want to add easily another stick. You don’t need the terminal block but it helps sometimes
If it were a TE or something like that I probably would put one in but on an EX2 I think I won’t bother with it.
Hello all. I wondering if it were possible to change the artwork on the Hori UMvC3 stick? I just bought it, then realized that the artwork is either some sort of super sticker, or some sort cardstock wedged in there pretty good.
The wire keeps coming out of my buttons on my hrap. Does anyone have a clue why or a solution to fixing it. Opening up my stick and plugging it back in is getting old.
its a vinyl print,
you’re going to have to peel that off to expose the bare metal panel so you can affix yourself some new art
You could give the QD a light squeeze with a pair of pliers. You could also replace the quick disconnects with new ones if you wanted. You just need a crimper and something to cut and strip the wires. Of course, if you solder the wires directly to the button switch terminals, they shouldn’t ever fall off.
Heya, not sure if you found a stick yet, but check out http://eightarc.com/ They JUST restocked this week iirc (was posted on Twitter I think) so you might want to get one asap!
Also, I personally recommend either the Fusion or the Qanba Q4, because they work on both consoles and PC. To be perfectly honest, I don’t even know if there’s a difference between them, other than the " Ice-Red or Ice-Blue" Qanba Q4’s are more expensive because of the case. They used the Fusion Ivory sticks at the Cross Counter Invitational SFxT, for example. shrug
You could also dualmod a Xbox 360 TE stick, but to be honest you prolly won’t save money that way, so I think a stick like the Fusion or Qanba Q4 is prolly the right choice for you. thumbs up
Good Luck, hope you find what you’re looking for!
~~Nate
Stupid question, but I need an answer, so here goes.
I finally picked up a brawlpad to dual mod my TE, and I was going to get everything started while I waited for my imp to arrive.
Is it better to keep the USB cable that is there on the brawlpad and splice into it, or desolder that one and solder on my own wires to use?
I realize the latter would look better, but then I’ll have a lot of hassle with the hot glue.
Here’s my n00b question:
I have a CPS2 JAMMA Super Puzzle Fighter arcade cabinet. The power supply for the CRT spontaneously caught fire recently. I cut power to it and everything seems fine, if smoky. It doesn’t seem to burn more when I turn it back on, and the audio works, indicating that the game itself is unharmed. I bet the CRT is fine too and it’s just some capacitor in this 16-year-old obviously-handmade circuit bundle that reached the end of a long road.
I ordered this RGB to NTSC converter: http://www.jammaboards.com/store/rgb-to-ntsc-pal-tv-converter-pcb-cv-04.html and my current plan is to replace the CRT with a (much lighter) LCD screen that will fit into the original arcade cabinet (bonus: it won’t be so crazy heavy anymore).
My questions are:
- Is this a good plan? Will this work? Can I do this on my own? Anything I should be aware of?
- Anyone have an appropriate LCD screen to recommend I pick up?
Neither is really better. One might look nicer, but they both will work fine. Just cut the cord to length and strip it.
Do you cut the Ground from USB?
No, that is not true.
The true is you share the Ground with the USB.
You do not cut it.
Solder a wire to USB Ground, then Daisy-chain that to all Buttons.
Or solder to wire to any Ground on the PCB, then Daisy-chain to all Buttons.
No, you cannot solder across.
That is shorting the Signal with Ground.
All the Inputs would be always activate constant.
Signal is the side with the Traces going out.
Signal is the left side for ABXY LB RB.
Ground is right side for ABXY LB RB.
LT, Signal is top-left on the back of PCB.
RT, Signal is top-right on the back of PCB.
LT, Signal is top-right on the front of PCB.
RT, Signal is top-left on the front of PCB.
Back and Start, and two that is towards the lateral.
Those are Signals, choose top or bottom.
Noob question two. I know I can solder signal wires from the fightpad to the respective location on the TE PCB to make it cleaner. Can I do the same with the ground? (I don’t remember anything about electronics anymore, I used to be really active with this stuff, too).
Is there a ps2 to xbox360 converter that I can use?
trying to mod my Tekken 5 stick to fit sanwa joystick, I heard there’s two method, screw through the restrictor’ or 'file down the black plastic and use short screws, does anyone know what size is the crew use to screw through the restrictor?