Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

The Q4 will be your best bet for all those criteria.

it is? Sweet. I guess 2 more questions. Wheres the best place to order this, and how does one get costume faceplates?

I’ve seen focusattack.com do pre-orders on Qanbas before, but I don’t know if they are selling any atm. They do have a replacement plexi for it or you can get custom plexi from tek-innovations.com

Focusattack is out of the Qanba sticks, and iirc jman posted that they won’t be stocking them for the forseeable future

Ah, so focusattack is out of the question. What other places sell them? Amazon? Play Asia?

-.- still having converter issues, still need some help. they are cheap but this is as good as I’ve gotten out of em.
ps3 controller plugged into converter. buttons work on stick stick does not.

Domestically? ArcadeShock is who I ordered mine from.

Ah found it. Almost 200 bucks there though. Going to see if I can find it cheaper, but if not I’ll get it there then

PS2 PCB run through converters. You can use a multi board setup from toodles as well, but if your not sure that you can do the wiring get a pcb out of a PS2 controller or a nubytech PS2 pad and then get some lagless converters.

Someone help me get my converter to recognize an arcade stick’s directional input.
I have this converter:

http://www.amazplus.com/3in1-ps2xbox-360ps3-controller-converter-adapte-p-283843.html

Model No: HYS-X3085

I don’t have weeks to get this sorted out. I’d like to have someone actually be nice so I can my issue solved today. I have a tournament to attend saturday and I’d like to practice with an actual stick so I can place somewhere around 3rd-1st instead of 8th-15th.
You think I’m trolling or something? It’s in the right section and in the right thread. Did you hear “Oh don’t answer TNB heeza troll” from someone? Just answer my question. You straight up ignored me. That is incredibly rude.

Maybe we didn’t answer your question because we don’t know anything about that converter, that’s not ignoring you, that’s just not shitposting.
Don’t assume shit, that is incredibly rude.

About that…Converter Compatibility Thread?

fixt link

So, say that I wanted to use a Toodles Chimp board for my arcade stick. Can I use that on its own, or must I have it connected to another pcb?

It’ll function perfectly fine on its own

If you just want your stick working on PS3 & PC then consider a standard PS3 Cthulhu instead. It will save you a little bit of cash.

ChImp SMD is designed with dual modding in mind.

I just considered a Chimp because I wanted the controller to work with 360 as well, though now I found out it can’t be used on a 360 unless dual modded with a hacked pad.

Is there any other standalone PCB option? I really don’t want to go with the Paewang but at this point it looks like I have no choice.

i got a xbox 360 round 1 TE dual modded with the chImp from these forums. I have had it lock up in the down-left direction twice on the 360. The second time it happened, I opened it up to see if it was the JLF. After unplugging it, the down-left input continued. No clue whats causing the problem. Also sometimes xbox guide pops up when pressing start+back. None of this has occurred for ps3 but I havent played much on that.

PS360+

It hasn’t been released yet, but soon…

I started this dual mod before noticing the owner had already did a number on the USB contacts. Want to try and repair it before chucking it and hacking the chimp to a fightpad. Please correct me if I’m wrong, but I buffed away the solder shield right where B3 is printed. I believe this is the D+ trace. The contact on top is fine for 5V, but I just noticed that there’s a trace missing going to an SMD component. So, I’m planning to solder D+ to that trace I revealed, and 5V to the SMD component that the missing trace led to. Assuming nothing else is wrong with this board, that should repair it, right?

edit: Nvm. Iron was hot so I just did it. Think it’s all good. Plugged in a USB and connected it to an xbox and it was recognized.

I got a few questions about using a Madcatz fightpad to fix my fightstick.

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss143/K0rN_b4LL/Arcade%20Stick%20Pics/IMAG0215.jpg

I’ve heard that instead of soldering the ground from the contact points you can just cut the ground wire going into the controller and just connect that to all the buttons. Is this true and is it the far right wire or the one just to the left of it? They are both marked with GND so I don’t know which to use.

If it is true then is it ok to just solder the signal wire across the whole contact point without having to worry about being careful or do I still have to make sure it is only touching the proper side? If it isn’t true then which sides are the signal (I’m guessing it is the ones with the paths leading away from them) and which points do I use for the common ground?

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss143/K0rN_b4LL/Arcade%20Stick%20Pics/Madcatz-fightpad-back.jpg

For LT,RT,Back, and Start which points do I solder the signal wires to?(The Turbo will not be used) I think that for RT it is the top right and LT the top left but am not certain, and for Back and Start I have no idea at all which to use.

And finally is there a good way to mount this thing inside the case (Its a custom Hori EX2 I’m fixing) so it isn’t flopping around when I’m moving the thing?

  • I forgot one, is there a way to change the little picture inside the console button?