I used to have this problem back in the old days when arcades were actually around… sometimes they would have the SF2 cab’s turned down most of the way in favor of some other newer-hotter game. Eventually I came to the realization that there is no physical advantage to being able to hear the game. No moves are telegraphed by audio, and the different in sound from say a “blocked” move and a “hit” is as visual as it is audible. I usually have to just resign to the “play it where it lies” kind of rule. You could always throw the game’s soundtrack on an mp3 player or something?
another question, sense I have a HRAP V3 SA, which opens from the bottom couldn’t I get a vinyl skin from skinit.com or something then just stick that over the whole stick (except for the bottom of course) much like people do with a game console or a laptop?
Well… Why don’t you print your artwork on a larger photo format like A4 and then cut the outer bleed out ?..
Oh, I’ve only seen Buttons being painted maybe twice.
b15sdm sometimes paint the Buttons for the Customs Arcade Sticks he make.
Another time I saw someone else do the painting of Buttons to get color they want.
You need Xbox 360 Controller for the PCB.
Recommended is SFIV FightPad or WWE BrawlPad or SFxT FightPad SD.
Or go to GameStop to get GameStop branded Mad Catz #4716 Xbox 360 Controller.
Then get an Imp v2 from Toodles.
But he is out of stock right now.
The Imp v2 is what control the Data Line of USB.
This so you can use one USB Cable on both PlayStation 3 and Xbox 360.
Unless you want two USB hanging out your HRAP, then do not use an Imp.
You can install a physical switch to do the USB Data Lines if want.
Physical switch instead of using an Imp v2.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v105/syn13/box.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v105/syn13/collage.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v105/syn13/252928_10150204816186432_579561431_7670726_153699_n.jpg
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?posts/6657147
I’ve desided not to paint my buttons I might buy some OBSF-30RGs, I heard they were better than the standard OBSF-30s is there truth to this?
Is there a tutorial on the dual mod, preferably one for both switch and imp mods, and what is better a physical swich or an imp v2?
[
](‘http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v105/syn13/box.jpg’)
Wow Syn 13 just became my idol. o.O what did he do this stick? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v105/syn13/collage.jpg
Read the whole Thread I will link.
And read all Threads linked in the Thread.
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/125848/
thanks my whole horizon has been broadened thanks to you,
I see, it’s a shame since I really like current game’s soundtracks, and whenever it’s late at night I play with my headset.
Thanks for clearing that up for me though!
Is there any reason that a cheapo wired PS3 controller such as this:
Can’t be dual modded with a madcatz SE for Xbox 360. I heard some shit ike they aren’t common ground or something? I am gonna do the ol’ toggle switch mod to this 360 se and these are hella cheap… Just wondering if there are complications with that kinda thing. Any advice would be helpful.
That is the same Komodo right?
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/113849/
If a Controller is not Common Ground, that is reason enough to not Dual Mod.
Unless you have the skills to convert to Common Ground, then cannot.
And with the knowledge to do, it is not work the time.
Even with using a Toggle Switch, Dual Mod with non-Common Ground will give trouble.
Can anyone explain what this bowing above my cable compartment is? I thought it was thermal expansion at first, but that doesn’t make sense since it doesn’t come into contact with my lap. I’m starting to think it was stressed somehow, but I do a good job of not forcing my cable into the compartment… It looks irreversible – any ideas to fix it? Thanks TT. EDIT: now that i think about it it might be the replacement wood TE sides exerting too much force medially towards the center of the stick… not even sure anymore
Sorry for the aside, but I randomly came across your flickr after checking EDC. Saw your gear, then started seeing sticks, then a Kitty. Small world.
Something may not have been fully together when screwed back together after installing your sides. Take 'er apart to be sure.
That’s probably it, cuz when I installed the wooden sides it was almost impossible to get the bottom steel panel back in flush without it bowing like this too. Had to grind down the sides a little bit for clearance… It looked fine until I guess recently the force gave way at a weak spot like the glue on a plastic/plastic interface and shoving a cable in there probably didn’t help any. -_- Oh well, I’ll live with it, I was just wondering if it was a more common issue.
And thanks for checking out the site – I’m a fan of your work too. I’ve done two TE kitty dual mods, couldn’t be happier.
So you’re saying the ebay PS3 wired controllers are no bueno? And are the same as this Komodo brand controller that has no common ground, only common voltage? Last Question. Are there any wired PS3 controller’s with PCB’s that work in dual mods? Do you know of any companies? I would order a chimp or teasy or w/e. But they’re out of stock everywhere and this seems like fun.
Next to the Turbo Panel is a hole for screw.
ChImp SMD is not out of stock.
TE Kitty is not out of stock.
http://gdlk.co
Mad Catz SFxT FightPad SD is Common Ground Wired PlayStation 3 Controller.
HORI Fighting Commander 3 Pro is Common Ground Wired.
HORI Fighting Commander 3 is Common Ground Wired.
I just opened to check, and you’re right… it’s under where I have the spacer for the bezel of my extended plexi. But the hole is empty – was there originally a screw in place there? I don’t recall one being there, and I don’t see residue of loctite. I’m pretty good about keeping track of parts when working on this… In any case, do you happen to know what kind of screw fits in there? I could give it a shot. Thanks!
No, there was not originally a screw there.
You did not remove and lose.
Was never there.
Only in the newer TE that Mad Catz installed a screw there.
The other TE just nothing there.
The very last production run of the original TE stick had a screw there.
Does anyone know if there’s a replacement actuator for the LS-32 that shortens the engage/throw?
Thank you So much, I thought I’d found all the sites for modding controls. I will utilize their non-out of stockedness or find a broken hori to rip apart.
.