I feel like an idiot for asking this, but is there some kind of trick to making the usb cord fit in the TE-S compartment? No matter how I wrap it up, it won’t fit in that tiny ass compartment. Is it bad to just wrap the cord around the stick?
My trick was to coil the cord IN the compartment; hold the cord against the back of the compartment and run it back and forth from one end to the other.
But these days I just loop up the cable, toss it over the stick, and throw it in my backpack.
That works a lot better than what I was doing (wrapping the cord outside and trying to stuff it in). Thanks.
Is it possible to find an SF4 SE stick for around $60 or no since (I think) they stopped making them.
I’ve been wondering this for a while now, does the Paewang have a manual override feature? eg can I get it to run in 360 mode on PC without plugging it into a 360 first?
Holding Turbo while plugging it in will toggle modes. If it doesn’t load the 360 driver the first time, plug it back in with Turbo to switch modes. Hope this helps.
guys quick question , my completed art (i got it as a jpg from the artist I commissioned) took imported it to word then saved it as a pdf(I flipped it vertically) .Is this the right way to do it so then i just put it on my phones SD card then print it at a local printing shop 0_0
I would not use word for anything. Ask him to export the file to pdf directly from Photoshop so that there is not loss in quality.
Ok, so I recently ordered a Cthulhu to fix a busted stick I have and I need a little help with wiring my JLF to the PCB. I apologize if this was answered somewhere else but I have yet to find my answer after quite a bit of searching.
So this is the board to my stick which came from a MvC3 Madcatz TE which is the one I am trying to wire to my Cthulhu. My problem is that I am not 100% certain on the ground. Just from looking at the traces on the board I have come to the conclusion that the 5 pin layout is as follows.
-Ground
-Right
-Left
-Up
-Down
I have seen some posts about cutting the traces and wiring directly to the ground points and I am not sure if that is necessary for me or if I can just use the 5 pin connector and attach the wires to their respective slots on the Cthulhu. Any help is very much appreciated, thanks.
the first pin is indeed Ground. However, the rest of the directions vary depending on the rotation of the PCB when it is the JLF.
did you get a JLF harness for the stick when you ordered the Cthulhu?
OK Interesting dilema. I recently fixed up a Mayflash PS2/3 stick and all was working well. But recently the 1K 2K 3K buttons (X, O, R2) do not work during a match, but work perfectly fine during menu and button config? Happened in both SFxT and SFIV:AE.
Ideas?
I have a harness and all the parts, basically what happened was I shorted out part of the stock PCB and the joystick stopped working. So after buying a new joystick, and new cable nothing worked, and I never heard back from Madcatz or Gameshark.com (where I ordered the stick). So since the stick was no longer under warranty I’ve taken it into my own hands to fix it.
I’m putting a Madcatz fightpad board into my EX2 as a replacement, will the LEDs on the little PCB behind the console button still work right when I solder it to the new board?
Yes.
These would be great as quick disconnects?
Those are indeed QDs… also the price is rediculously cheap…
edit: LOL Shipping to Canada is $18…
Another question regarding a solderless Mayflash method. If it is possible to not use a soldering iron, I wonder if there is something like a butt-splicer or some sort of plug that I can hook my wires to the main PCB. Do they make wire plugs that small? Or soldering is my only choice?
Or should I cut up the button pcb, and hook up the wires to the back as seen in this picture from the Paewang thread?