Thanks for the correction. I’m actually surprised I didn’t remember that. I’ve seen it somewhere before.
Hi, I’m trying to make a stick right now. I have a MC Cthulhu and a gamestop PCB but i don’t know where the signals and grounds are. Any help would be appreciated.
But the signals are all already labeled on that pcb…
Does it matter which half i solder to?
The side with the little circles attached are the Signals.
Or just solder to the circle themselves.
What about LT and RT, LB and RT, select and home?
Really? I can’t do anything?
That version looks CG. Check the USB connector spot on the trigger side. The VCC trace makes a beeline but theres no visible trace where the GND signal leaves, just the flood fill polygon. If the polygon is GND, pads common ground.
No idea on the if the triggers are active low though.
Sorry I thought that was the gamestop pcb.
One side of each pad is the signal. The other the gnd.
Sorry, I’m really new to this. What does active low mean?
Active low means the button is registered if its signal is held low by touching ground.
Triggers are analog; the pad can tell the difference between all of the way squished in, halfway squished in, all of the way let go, and everything in between. It does that by putting a voltage on the signal line for that trigger, usually between 0 and 3.3v. So, if it’s at 1.65v, the pad sees the trigger is halfway squished.
Thing is, whether the pad thinks 0v is ‘all of the way pressed’, or if it thinks 0v is ‘not pressed at all/released’. The first is active low, and the easier of the two to use. The second is active high (‘the voltage is high when the trigger is pressed/active’)
Lets say you wire up that trigger to the MC Cthulhu. MC Cthulhu expects 0v to be pressed, and a higher voltage to mean not pressed. If you directly wire it up and the pad is active low, no problem, both PCBs read the voltages the same; 0v is pressed, high voltage is not pressed.
If the pad is active high, they kinda freak. 0v would be ‘pressed’ to the Cthulhu, and not pressed to the 360 pad, and visa versa for high voltage. Fixing that requires an inverter chip. Not expensive, not earth shattering, just more of a PITA.
I see circles for Back and Guide.
Do not you?
Can’t tell for LB and RB and LT and RT yet.
You have to remove the Trigger Assembly to full see the LB and RB.
Then you have to give us results with a Voltmeter so we can tell you for the Triggers.
Or you can test by wiring up to the Multi-Console Cthulhu to test like Toodles just typed.
Does it hurt to just test the connections individually by soldering and resolderng? Because I don’t know how to use a voltmeter nor do I have access to one. Besides that, thanks for ll the other help everyone.
Hello all.
I have a custom 360 Hori EX2 that has a busted PCB. Since I want to dual mod eventually anyway, I figured this was a good opportunity to replace it with a PCB that has a common ground. The WWE fightpad seems like the easiest since the triggers are simple microswitches instead of pots, so I picked up one of those. Now, would it be possible to wire a PS3 fightpad in the same manner to make it work on both systems, or would I be better off just getting a Cthulhu board? I only ask because the fightpads are cheaper.
Thanks
I just bought the EVO monitor. I have my ps3 via hdmi and my pc connected to it via dvi. Will the monitor mess up over time from switching from hdmi to dvi alot? Its the only monitor I have right now which I can play my ps3 on and use my pc on and I go back and forth on it alot. Thanks
Depends. If you’re just touching together the two halves of a pad, you’re fine. If you go crazy and touch the wrong two points, you could short it and the console would disable it for using too much current. The possibility of permanent damage is slim, but still there. So be careful, and only touch places that are the halves of the buttons, or the MIDDLE pin of a trigger pot. Stay away from the outside two pins of a trigger pot and anything else that isn’t button or dpad.
You could, sure, assuming the pad you have in mind is common ground. The question is, how do you want to handle the USB cord.
Brawlstick+CG PS3 pad -> Two USB cables coming out, one for each console.
Brawlstick+CG PS3 pad + DPDT switch and drill/dremel -> One usb cord, use switch to set the system being used.
Brawlstick+CG PS3 pad + Imp -> One usb cord, use Guide button to switch between ps3<->360
Brawlstick+Chimp -> One usb cord, stick autodetects what system its on.
No changing from hdmi to dvi wont hurt the monitor. In my experience, the parts that will have the most problems with doing that are the actual switches on the monitor that do the changing. You’ll wear the buttons out before there’s any damage to the core monitor.
Does anybody know whether the Madcatz Messenger Bag, not the backpack, will fit a US T5 Anniversary Stick?
The Chimp seems to be the cleaner option, so I’ll go with that.
Thanks for your help!
Hey, guys. I got myself a Madcatz TE S stick a little less than a year ago. When I got it, there was a small flaw, almost a crack, in the top left corner. I contemplated sending it back for a replacement, but really just wanted to get to the fighting, so I figured it wasn’t a big deal and I would just forget about it. Well, in the last couple days, I’ve noticed this flaw getting bigger and bigger. I’m scared it’s going to get worse, so I just want to replace whatever it is (plexiglass?) I don’t know anything about doing this, and a straight-up Google of the subject produced very few results. Could anyone point me in the direction of a simple replacement for this cover? And perhaps instructions on how to so? I really appreciate it.
