http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Diagrams/madcatzls32wire.jpg
Hello guys, I just recently obtained my first HitBox. I like it a lot even though its a little awkward at first. My only gripe is the usb port on the HitBox. I heard there is a jack I could install…called a nuetrick jack? How could I go about installing one into the case? I don’t have a Dremel tool. Is there anyway I could put one in my case without the use of a Dremel?
Thanks in advance!
You can clamp a piece of wood to the top of the USB hole and use a drill press, just make sure to use a black oxide bit and keep that sucker properly lubricated so it doesn’t break/chip/dull. The wood keeps the bit in place. Also use plenty of vice grips to hold it in place, preferably as close to the top as you can, so it doesn’t shake.
And your name makes me cringe. I couldn’t think of life without a dremel.
Thank you for your reply!
Sadly I do not own a drill press either and all those things needed sounds more expensive then a Dremel.
I live in SoCal. Is there anyone who has experience modding HitBoxes locally that I could pay to do this?
Talk to jdm, three posts up.
I’m looking into replacing the stick in my Mad Catz SE, and I’m wondering what the difference between the Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT and the Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK is. It looks like Lizard Lick doesn’t have either one in stock currently, but I’ve found another site that has just the JLF-TP-8YT in stock. It looks like most people use the JLF-TP-8YT-SK but I’m just wondering if they’re actually the same thing or not.
Also do these come with an octagonal gate or do I need to buy that separately?
Thanks.
All Sanwa JLF are the same; some just have different suffix to show what is added on.
Here the six variations listed in Sanwa Catalog ('07~'08):
JLF-TP-8 is Base JLF.
JLF-TP-8Y is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90°.
JLF-TP-8T is Base JLF with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8YT is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 ° with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8S is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 ° with JLF-P-1S (S Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8Y-SK is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 ° with JLF-CD (Shaft Cover).
Of course other variations can be done too:
JLF-TP-8-SK, JLF-TP-8T-SK, JLF-TP-8S-SK, JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
I’ll just add this for completeness, since it is JLF:
JLF-TM-8 can do; JLF-TM-8T, JLF-TM-8T-SK, JLF-TM-8S, JLF-TM-8S-SK.
You can use any of those.
JLF-TP-8 you will rotate PCB and use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1.
JLF-TP-8Y you will use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1 to mount in Case.
JLF-TP-8T you will rotate PCB and just pop into the Case after removing stock Mad Catz Joystick.
JLF-TP-8YT you will just pop into the Case after removing stock Mad Catz Joystick and mount in Case.
JLF-TP-8S you will remove JLF-P-1S, rotate PCB and use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1.
(I’m just explaining for some. There are of course more variations.)
You see that I did not mention anything with [SK]?
That is because it is nothing to how Sanwa JLF fit into Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick™.
It is just a Shaft Cover; there for looks.
Once you have a JLF in your hands, rotating the PCB can be done in only five seconds.
It is super easy.
Here is removing Restrictor Gate.
[media=youtube]L67fUfH3S5o[/media]
Here is rotating of PCB.
[media=youtube]dIgCEpBEhng[/media]
If want save money, and shop you are buying from has JLF-TP-8Y cheaper than JLF-TP-8YT, then get JLF-TP-8Y.
Just use the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate.
But if you don’t want to do the work of unscrewing the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate off, then buy JLF-TP-8YT.
Some shops sell JLF-TP-8YT with Mounting Plate not pre-installed, so you may have to screw it on yourself.
But if you will be screwing on Mounting Plate, might as well start out with JLF-TP-8Y right?
But installing a Mounting Plate requires taking apart Joystick.
So might as well start out with JLF-TP-8 right?
That doesn’t matter though, as I don’t think I’ve seen shop with JLF-TP-8, just JLF-TP-8Y.
Rotating PCB very simple and quick though.
You want the exact variation of Sanwa JLF that Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick™ has?
JLF-TP-8YT.
Even more exact?
JLF-TP-8YT-W; that just means White Ball Top.
You want the exact variation of Sanwa JLF that Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick™ Tournament Edition has?
JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
Even more exact?
JLF-TP-8YT-SK-W; that just means White Ball Top.
So, choose which you want.
Choose on how much you want to spend.
Choose on how much work you want to do.
And one last thing to end this Post.
If you will be reusing the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate, just reuse the screws.
And also, the screws need something to hold onto; they grab on the nuts.
These nuts are located in the stock Mad Catz Joystick.
After you remove the Restrictor Gate, lift off the Joystick PCB.
Underneath, you will then see the four nuts the screws are threading into.
But if for some reason you do not want to reuse the screws and nuts, you can go out to buy.
There is known problem for the screws to strip really super easy.
Get some M3 (3mm) screws of .5mm Pitch at length of 8mm.
For the nuts, get M3 (3mm) of .5mm Pitch.
If you are not reusing stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate, and just using the one provided with Sanwa JLF, then it’s cool.
And because I feel you will ask about this also if it happens:
The Restrictor Gate on stock Mad Catz Joystick is on super tight.
So you will need assist with tool to remove; a screwdriver or something.
I have a Hori Real Arcade Pro 2.
http://www.ncsxshop.com/images/products/large/1005/hori_rap2_ishop.gif
Some of my buttons are beginning to stick. What is the original make of the buttons, am I better off replacing them all with Sanwa, or just the sticky ones? Thanks!
Vermilion color HORI Buttons.
You will only find them from HRAP of other people.
You are better to replace with Vermilion color Sanwa OBSF-30.
Hi, I had a recent problem with an arcade stick. Its a 360 TE that was dual modded (not by myself) quite awhile ago with a MC Cthulu. The 360’s PoV Up switch stopped working, yet the input still worked on PS2, so I narrowed it down to the wires. I’ve since opened it up and found that three wires had become disconnected, presumably from the MC Cthulu board.
Sadly, since I did not personally mod my stick, I’m clueless as to where they go. I’m unable to pull the PCB out because the inside of the stick is extremely cramped, and pulling on wires or trying to find the source will probably only disconnect more wires. Currently, the Select and 360 Up switches are not working. Here’s what I can see thus far:
On the Cthulu board, from a top-down perspective, these two slots are missing wires
The following wires are disconnected:
- Black wire, end seems ‘clipped off’
- Red wire and black wire bundled together
- Another black wire
At this point I’m a little nervous to dig any deeper and try to find more, or randomly plug in wires until things work. If I am safe to try, or anyone has any idea what I’m talking about, help would be appreciated. If more info is needed, I’ll see what I can do.
Thank you.
Up on Xbox 360 not working would not be problem with the Cthulhu or one of the wires.
Check the Joystick Wire Harness of the TE.
Reseat the Joystick Connector.
The two red dots in the picture, they are for Select and Start.
Which will only not work on the Cthulhu side if wires are not connected.
If your Back is not working on Xbox 360 side, then something else is happening.
Or your Modder did the Dual Mod in a non cool way.
Same with the Up for Xbox 360.
Show pictures.
Color of the wires do not mean anything.
Out of all the Sanwa stick models offered by Lizardlick and other stores, does anyone know which one is the one that comes stock with the TE sticks?
And has anyone done a writeup on all the Sanwa joysticks? Because I’m looking to replace the stick that I have now as it’s kinda beat up now after long usage from playing mvc2
Ugh, I’ve been trying to do some research on something, and none of my searches have yielded what I’m looking for so 'm going to start here in hopes of at least getting a finger pointing in a certain direction.
I’ve got a Round 1 TE & Chun-Li TE. I’d like to make one of them dual-mod…no issue with that, I’ve used several different boards from Toodles in the past, and just ordered a TE Kitty. However, with my son (almost 11 months now) roaming the living room, I’m trying to migrate everything to ‘wireless’. I’d prefer to not buy anymore sticks as the wife would kill me. But what can I do to make my sticks wireless? I’ve brainstormed on building my own USB to USB wireless setup since I can’t find anything on the market atm, but I know folks on SRK have done stuff like this already (I’ve seen videos but no howtos), any advice I can get on this would be greatly appreciated.
- :bluu:
JDM just did a very extensive write-up on JLF sticks a few posts up that should have the info you are looking for. As a snip:
You want the exact variation of Sanwa JLF that Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick™ has?
JLF-TP-8YT.
Even more exact?
JLF-TP-8YT-W; that just means White Ball Top.
Which console, 360, PS3 or both? Whichever you chose, it will involve some hackery with a wireless controller. FOr a PS3 you need a sixaxis (not dual shock, reasons below) and either Toodle’s Axisadapter or Gummo’s Leo2. For a 360 you’ll need to hack a wireless M$ 360 pad and a play and charge kit (unless you want to keep replacing those batteries). For a dual you will need the hacked 360 PCB, hacked sixaxis and a Leo2.
The reason for a sixaxis over a dualshock is how the PCB is designed. On the sixaxis pads, there is a membrane that attaches to the pain PCB with a small ribbon wire. The leo2 and axisadapter pligs into that ribbon wire connector on the main pcb and works its magic from there. On many of the newer dualshock pads, that membrane is molded/soldered/glues onto the board, making a plug and play option impossible. You’d have to solder each of the 20 or so pads to individual wires, which is not fo rthe faint of heart.
Yeah I’ve dug into that type of work before, so pretty much there is no ‘cheap’ way of doing it…its $100 roughly no matter how its cut?
Might be cheaper to build a wireless USB plug-in.
- :bluu:
No matter how you look at it, you’re going to end up hacking a pad. For the PS3, I recommend the axisadapter or leo2 over a wireless pad with usb dongle for one main reason: no soldering. The board plugs into that sixaxis and screw terminals go to the buttons. You’d have to solder with the wireless usb pad, and I can’t say for sure if that pad would be common ground or not. For 360 play the only alternative is soldering
Hi there, i´m looking for Mortal Kombat, Wolverine/X-Men or other Comic/Anime Templates for the Datel Arcade Stick (Mayflash/Paewang Revolution), has anybody a link for me? I can´t create them alone because i can not work with Photoshop or GIMP. Thanks for your help and sorry for my english.
Is the same to be said about the joystick? Is it also a HORI brand?
Yes. However, it can be Replaced with a Sanwa JLF-Tp-8YT-SK if I am not mistaken. However, you may need to use the Hori shaft for proper mounting height.
You’ll also have to buy a vermillion balltop, or use the one that is already on the stick. It’s really your choice, but I would just buy another one to make sure it matches.
The Joystick is actually already a Sanwa JLF with Vermilion Balltop.