that really boils down to which design do you like better in this case. there is a new circuit board in the S model but it shouldnt really matter under warrantee. you can also get a nice discount by clicking here http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=229811
That would be great, unfortunately as I stated before, I’m European 
I read that there’s a service called MyUSABox, but dunno if it’s safe.
So, there’s not really a sensible difference between them. Good to know, thanks.
EDIT: Just ckecked MyUSABox fees. They’re way too high for Italy, it’s just not convenient 
This worked like a charm, thanks for the video. I’m glad I got some 24mm PN-14Cs for these now. So much easier to remove with screw-ons!
@ toshinu :
Thanks for trying at least. 
Thought people knew about using Allen Wrench.
Because it been talked about super many times.
lol I always thought it was a person =). JK!
Speaking of the new PCB, anyone have good pictures of them?
I know there is a specific post for this but it seems rather dead. I just got my TE round 2 not so long ago and would like yo play on my PC. I just got this PC 2 months ago, it has windows 7. I read in a post you had to replace the usb to play? Is that true? If so is there another way of playing? Do i just plug the TE in the PC? If I have to replace anything on this brand new PC I’ll think I’ll pass. Any info is greatly appreciated.
wot console is your te r2 for? the ps3 version is selective about using on computer, for the 360 just get a driver from microsoft
^
Its for PS3, forgot to mention that in the post
@5_Knuckles
I did a quick search and found this http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=175047 … not sure how it’ll help (or if its a thread u have already gone over) but i kinda skimmed the first page and it does seem like a hit-or-miss situation depending on ur computer setup. Also at the same time it seems like the alternative may be to get a pci card that’ll work… its seems, unfortunately, like all those options are running against u but there are 31 pages to the thread and if ur patient enuff to read thru it u might find ur answer floating around in there… good luck
some more questions:
on a pc environment,
anyone tried to do a stick using a keyboard for the electronics ?
I measured the minimum of 30 ms between 2 presses of a same button for several gamepads I own:
“Hama” cheapest gamepad
"Trustmaster" cheapest gamepad
"Saitek" p9900
"logitech" dual precision
I always liked the logitech dual precision though it is really not meant to endure hundreds of hours of play and i had to fix the USb coord twice, and replace the DPAd switchs and spring. but if i rip on of them and hook it on japanese arcade parts
the ergonomics are no longer a factor and they seem to have equivalent electronics, but somehow i always kind of felt the logitech more responsive.
hence the question, I have no real way to measure actual response time does anyone have this kind of data ?
Is there something like ‘input’ blending on some devices,
what i mean is USb HID devices are being polled by the computer 125 times per second, do they always send a 1 time report with all switches position, or do some of them send analogic direction reports only and digital switches reports only, or need several reports to send the state of the gamepad/stick, i assume most people on this thread would understand how the requirement for 3 or more HID reports to send the sate of the pad can be a problem seing how SFIV input polling work at 60hz.
ideally a 1 poll full report is perfect, but then a slightly delayed full report could still be better(more predictable) than several “unmeshed” partial reports, hence my question about the firmware of some device actually blending inputs or not before sending its reports.
we can all agree that hid polling rate 125 Hz… 8 ms is good but far from ideal, is there someway to overclock hid devices ?
**If not are they some gamepads/sticks oveclocked the same way we have gamer mices running (with dedicated driver) 333Hz, 500Hz or 1000hz ? **(500Hz being usually the ideal choice du to more reasonable CPU usage.)
**has anyone here already built a custom stick not ripping some off the shelf gaming device, starting from a PIC 18 or some identical high speed USB capable MCU ? **in which case one could technically inject his own SFIV optimal firmware.(1 poll reports, minimalistic firmware clutter, or more advanced custom features)
when hooking your arcade parts to the ripped device electronic board is there any need for paying extra care about Electromagnetic induction interference between the wires ?
hey i have a ? i’ve been searching but can’t find an answer. would it be best to buy a ps3 TE and have it dual modded for xbox 360 or buy a 360 TE and have it modded to a Ps3. is there a big difference and why?
easier to get 360 and add ps3. read about chimp
i find that the down input gets stuck (eg: cr.lk cr.lp st.lp becomes cr.lk cr.lp cr.lp) or doesnt register while doing quick motions. is there probably a magic spring, actuator or other part causing the problem i should buy and easily replace or just buy a new JLF-TP-8YT-SK? TE stick, if it matters
Would I be able to fit an ls-32 with an s-mounting plate on something thats supposed to hold a jlf?
Supposed to hold JLF?
As in non-Universal Mounting Bracket?
If that is so, then no.
I like more specific Mounting Bracket of yours to better answer your question.
For the people who DIY plexi-glass for the TE, what did you guys use to cut the holes for them?
Hey everyone, did a search but I couldn’t find anything so I’ll post my problem here.
I’m trying to swap two buttons on my TE, but one of the quick disconnects won’t budge at all. The other one for that button came out fine, as well as the two on the other button. Is there anything I can do to pull it out? It doesn’t look like it’s been soldered or anything like that.
get some pliers and grab the quick disconnect (do not grab the wire or you will cut/snap it off when puliling it off) and carefully nudge it back and forth(try not to use too much power, patience is your friend, & try not to rush) while trying to pull it off until it pops off… from there, when u replace the button and hav to put the QD back, u can either loosen the QD with one of 'em tiny flatheads and slightly widen the curly,folded over looking part or u can partially install it on da plug so that it doesn’t lock in place… ur choice… good luck
This may be well known, but I have been looking for an answer to this…
Can anyone tell me why the TE JLF is looser out of the box than a standard JLF?
Did mad catz use a different spring?