So there would be 3 wires on each contact points? (If i dont chain ground wires)
There should only be a maximum of two wires to each Button Signal on the PCB.
One one goes to Signal Terminal of the Button.
One wire goes to Cathode of LED.
Or solder the Cathode to the Signal Terminal of your Button.
Then you will have only one wire to Button Signal to PCB.
How hard would it be to swap out all the innards of the Madcatz SE(Sanwa parts) into a new case?
Super easy. Just screws and quick connects. You would certainly not be the first to do it.
*And while you are at it, might as well buy a new stick and better buttons. *
Haha ok, I love the tek-innovation case design and i already bought all new buttons/stick. Thanks.
Hmmm i bought an agetec plexi from a member here and the holes werent counter-sunk. Im thinking of maybe trying to place a washer under the plexi, anyone try something similar to protect the plexi from cracking? And will using snap ins potentially crack it either?
I have a Hori ex something (can’t remember what it’s called but it’s the big one not the little ex2) and it keeps shorting out mics. Has anyone else had or heard of this issue?
Alright, quick noob question:
I bought a used TE to mod and I’m almost done, but there’s one problem: whoever owned this before me busted the nut on the lower-left corner where the top panel screws down. It’s just totally missing. I got a replacement nut of the correct size but I need some advice before I start digging in. It’s proving very difficult to get the nut in place via removing top panel. Is my best option removing the bottom panel, or is there another way?
Thanks in advance!
Go from the bottom easiest way…takes a little bit…be careful not to break the side tabs when pulling and when you snap back the two inner pieces make sure no wires are in the way of the mounting holes
The parts are all dry, water got in where the turbo and home functions are. The stick is a PS3 TE. Here’s what happens when I press the buttons. . . I get no response from them other than this.
If you cleaned the surface only its not dry (that includes the inside surfaces)
This goes for any electronic device, sticks and controllers, phones, keyboards entire laptops
I know it is a little late now, but when ever you spill/ submerge water into some kind of electronics never try to plug it in or turn it on right away.
If it already have power shut it off right away, disconnect any power cables, batteries, volt adapters and power sources.
Steps to attempt to prevent water damage on a electronic device
[LIST=1]
[]Never test the device while it still can be wet
[]Immediately Unplug/ turn off / remove all batteries (if you can). DO not try to turn on/ plug in
[]Towel dry the outside.
[]Open up the device and dry the inside at this point the device is not dry yet.
[*]Cover/ submerge the device in uncooked dry rice, leave it that way for 1 to 3 days (3 days especially so for laptops)
[/LIST]
If you spilled something sugary, like tea, soda, juice, coffee ect you have to clean off any residue first. As the dried sugars/syrups can create electrical shorts.
While the power is completely off (no power cords plugged in, no batteries) you can try rising the residue off with ether distilled water or Rubbing alcohol.
The Rubbing alcohol will not do any harm and will evaporate quickly, while the water has to be dried afterwards. Sometimes Alcohol will not be enough and water will have to be used. Follow the above steps.
Raij1n my suggestion is open up that stick and try to dry everything you can, what you can’t dry pack in dry uncooked rice and let sit from1 to 3 days.
the Rice will adsorb any moisture
Only after its fully dried test again.
Hello,
I just wanted to thank you guys for giving GREAT advices to me since im super newbie when it comes to building arcade stick 
Anyway, heres what I’ve got ready so far: Ryu theme X360 stick: http://i5.aijaa.com/b/00845/9645770.jpg
When I get all three sticks done. I’ll post pictures on the pic thread!
Hi Everyone
Looking at getting my first stick, have decided on a mad catz te round 2 but i’m unsure which is the format to go for as I want to mod it for multi console use.
Am i correct in assuming if I get the 360 stick and a te kitty kit, instead of a ps3 and MC Cthulhu i’ll get all the multi console support of the PS3/MC combo as well ps3 and 360 compatibility?
So overall the 360/Kitty combo will be easier to fit and give me more features?
Yes the Kitty is pretty easy to install, check out toodle’s Kitty thread and read the PDF he made. You can also take a look at the kitty install thread I have done.
Only hard part is cutting the USB cable and striping some wires, which is covered in the directions
Yes the Kitty includes multi system support.
Thanks for the info, I’ve checked the pdf’s out, main thing I wanted to know if it’s a better choice than a ps3 te and MC Cthulhu combo?
I’m thinking of getting a Qanba Q4RAF, but I’ve heard that, since it’s not a licensed stick, firmware updates can screw it over. Should I be worried about it?
Thanks in advance.
Lokinario.
If you ever want to play on XBox it’s the only choice. Otherwise it’s just easier to put together.
Kitty has Xbox1 support also…
TE Kitty:
The TE Kitty is made for installation in Xbox360 versions of the MadCatz FightStick. Works with Rnd1 and Rnd2 stick. Installation into TE-S based sticks requires an additional cable kit that must be purchases in addition to the TE Kitty board.
Features:
Adds support for all consoles supported by MC Cthulhu (PS3, Xbox1, PS2/PSX, Saturn, Dreamcast, Gamecube, SNES, NES, TG-16, others)
Full support for LS/DP/RS slide switch in consoles supporting multiple analog sticks (PS3, Xbox1, Gamecube)
Guide LEDs controlled by Kitty on non-Xbox360 systems. Displays the direction of the stick.
Turbo LEDs light on button press on all consoles.
Turbo button wired to also activate Select for when Neutrik jacks are installed in the spot of the previous Select button.
On-the-fly button remapping for all consoles except Xbox360.
Full turbo support just like original TE.
Custom USB string ability.
Tools needed for installation: #3 metric Allen wrench, small Philips screw driver, wire cutters, X-acto hobby knife, Sharpie, small flat blade screwdriver.
Kitty User’s Guide for all models: www.godlikecontrols.com/download/kitty/KittyUsersGuide.pdf
TE Installation Guide: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/kitty/TEKitty_Install.pdf
TE-S Installation Guide: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/kitty/TESKitty_Install.pdf
Q: I’m confused about the TE-S harness thing.
A: It works like this. The TE Kitty kit, has the large important circuit board, and the ribbon cables to hook it up to original TE based sticks; Rnd1, Rnd2, MvC2, tons of others. If you have a TE-S based stick, you need to purchase the TE-S Kitty harness IN ADDITION to the TE Kitty kit. The TE-S Kitty harness has the ribbon cables needed to connect a TE Kitty board to the original 360 TE-S board.
Q: So how do I know if I need to get the TE-S Kitty harness without opening it up?
A: The easiest thing to do is plug the stick into a 360 and start up a game. Slide your switch to the ‘Locked’ setting. If your Start and Back buttons still work, then you do NOT need to get the TE-S Kitty harness, the TE Kitty kit will be all you need. If the ‘Locked’ setting disables the Start and Back buttons, then you DO need to get the TE-S Kitty harness IN ADDITION to the TE Kitty kit.
Q: How do I get it to work properly with SF4 AE for PC?
A: Move slide switch to ‘LS’.
Q: Can I use a TE Kitty without having the Guide/Turbo/LED board? I want to remove that from my stick, or use a TE pcb+Kitty in my custom case.
A: You wouldn’t be able to force Xbox360 mode, you would be perma stuck in DP mode (no MvC2 for you), you would 100% have to drill a hole for a Guide button, prolly bunches of others I cant think of at the moment. Can it work? Mostly. Will it work right? Meh. You’ll lose some functionality without it, and I wont be doing any tweaks to the code to get around them. You will have all functionality if you can install a Guide button and a LS/DP/RS slider, but in short, it’s not recommended nor supported.
my madcatz TE has been acting up recently. it wouldn’t work when i try plugging it in and turning on my xbox but if i leave it plugged after playing for awhile it eventually turns on. has anybody experienced this/knows how to fix this?
I have a MADCATZ TE round 1with an MC Cthulhu, the little switch on the top switches the function (360, MCC) I heard there was a way to add in a way to make the stick work like a Classic Controller? Is that feasible? Add this third board, get a Classic Controller Cthulhu cable?
How EXACTLY would I make that work?