Sorry one question again 
Where do i ground LT and LB? and start / back wires goes bottom of pcb and their grounds on the other side?
Thanks for your help, Zeth. :tup:
I actually have no shaft cover on my HRAP 3 for some reason, so it looks like no shaft cover it is for the dustwasher.
My main question now though is, are there any art modders on here that use Gimp instead of Photoshop? I havenāt been able to open up most templates because they are all saved with CMYK color (which Gimp doesnāt support.) 
I wanted to work on the art by myself if I could. But it looks like I might need to get a Photoshop trial or find someone on SRK with Photoshop.
Itās a common ground pad, they donāt need individual ground wires. Just one daisy chained GND which can be tapped from any ground point on the PCB.
GIMP canāt handle CMYK out of the box. But luckily for us GIMP like Linux which it was designed for is very opened ended. Just install the CMYK plugin which can be found here.
So a friendās stick is having an issue.
Etokki Omni stick. PS3.
Most of the buttons donāt work, and as of today, the stick isnāt recognized by the PS3 at all.
Sounds like the PCB, or the USB Cord? If itās the USB cord, I can replace it with a regular USB cord, and obviously use a multimeter to make sure the correct wires go in, or no?
Question about the EightArc/other cross platform arcade sticks.
Are they allowed in tournaments? Asking because I play on Xbox and most tournies are on Ps3. And local tournies donāt have converters.
Yes.
I noticed a problem with my Madcatz TE the other day running some casuals with a friend. I have the MmVC3 TE not sure the exact model. But when i was playing Rufus i noticed my Jab button was acting up, whenever i pressed it for a stands quarter circle forward motion i would get short instead of Jab, i went into controller settings and everything was fine. And after i was done with rufus and changed characters i didnāt have the problem anymore.
Does anyone have any idea what the malfunction could have been? And no i wasnāt pressing the wrong button, it was a legitimate issue haha.
Thanks again Zeth. I installed that plugin. Isnāt it just for saving CMYK templates though or importing TIFF files? If it can open CMYK .PSD files, then Iām doing something wrong.
So if you can open .PSD files no problem with that plugin, let me know and Iāll keep working on this. Thanks again for all your help.
I never installed it myself so Iām not for sure. Here is the wiki page with more information on it though. https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/CMYK_support_in_The_GIMP
If that doesnāt work download photoshop demo and resave them in RGB or have someone else do it for you. There are people on here who will do that Iām sure. :tup:
Wow, I hadnāt thought of that Zeth. Thanks. Iāll just save them so I can work on them later myself. That way, when the trial expires I can still edit them. Thanks. :tup:
EDIT: From the wiki: āā¦and there is no support for opening CMYK files in either Separate or Separate+ā
So it looks like you canāt open them with Gimp. At least you can still create CMYK files though, without Photoshop.
Does the coloring affect the printing though? If I save it to RGB, will it make for worse stick art? Also, Iāve heard that you should take the outlines off for the button and stick when you are done. What do you guys think?
It does affect it but not enough to worry about it.
Always turn off button templates before you print artwork. If you are getting a plexi though why arenāt you getting an artwork print as well? itās about the same price to get it printed at kinkos and you donāt have to cut the holes yourself. But if you are going to print it yourself then turn off the outlines before printing and tape the art to the plexi and cut the template using the plexi as a guide, look at all the videos in the series I linked you and they show how to print the art and cut it in the first couple parts.
Actually, I am getting the artwork print as well. Especially because tek-innovations ships you the button cut outs with the art for free.
Actually, itās the reason I canāt decide on clear buttons or colored buttons. Colored buttons would save me some money, but they only really go with one theme. (They do look really cool though if you match them just right.)
But with clear buttons, since Art gives the button cutouts, I could switch out art later on and maybe get some LEDās in there later on.
So yeah, I am going to buy an artwork print. Probably from Art if I can decide on what buttons I want to buy.
And actually I was wondering too, how do people get art on the bottom of their stick? (Iāve seen it on TEās and maybe an HRAP.) I canāt find any kind of plexi for the bottom of the stick or a template. Or is that usually only on custom made sticks?
Well if you send the template to art over at tek-innovations you can just send him the PSD and he will turn off the buttons templates before he prints it. But if you think you are gonna switch to different art along the line I would say go clears or the translucent colors which can hold artwork as well because they look great with anything as long as you have the button cuts.
Iām not sure if anyone does a plexi bottom for the HRAP. Tek-innovations does a plexi bottom for the TE but not the HRAP. You can probably have Blklightning make one for you. Project: LLC Metal Replacement Panels Round 9 Stainless Steel
Hey guys, does any one know if you can fit a MC Cthulhu within the PCB area of a HRAP1 w/o the turbo panel? This will determine if I would get a Paewang PCB or a Cthulhu. I want to start on this one so I can get back into the groove of modding again, and Iād like to have at least some sort of organized look to my wiring.
Nah, it wont fit there, and you wouldnāt want to do that anyway. You want it to look clean? Take four #4 bolts and nuts, put them into the mounting holes of the Cthulhu with the heads on the bottom and the nuts on the top side (same side as the screw terminals/USB jack/all of the parts), and JB weld the nuts to the top panel. Cthulhu gets securely mounted to the underside of the metal plate, and if you use the USB jack, can be seperated from the case by just unplugging the USB. All of the wires can be neatly routed to the screw terminals or unlabelled through holes, and you can leave the existing turbo panel in place, and run the USB cord through the spots the original button wires went through, to the pull stop columns and out the bottom existing notch for the USB cord. Turbo panel wont do anything, but will still be there and not look like a gaping wound. Wiring will be clean, easy to take apart to work on.
If youāre dead set on on getting rid of the panel, talk to me about buying it from you or just flat swapping cases for one of my T5ās.
Could not have said it better my self.
Thanks for the ideas guys. Iāll try to manage something up. I like the idea of mounting the PCB to the panel, and will take the idea and run with it. Thanks for the help guys.
~Saka
besides for using nuts and screw/bolts, threaded standoffs and matching screws, and PCB feet with matching screws works too.
But they are still essentially all the same thing.
I am having troubles with printing out custom faceplate art.
I donāt have a Kinkos near to me and I donāt have Photoshop so I canāt save to PDF.
Every time I save the Template as a picture file to print it out or simply try to print from the template at 100% it ends up shrinking it or adding margins that screw it up.
If anyone has had any experience printing from their own printer without using a PDF then please let me know how you did it.