I know Solder, I’ve been to that thread a lot already. Thank you.
Svenuser, sounds like a cool plan. =D
Most of the parts you need you can find at http://www.focusattack.com and http://www.gdlk.co. Just read and absorb as much information as you can from the Tech Talk forum. Once you decide to mod arcade sticks, it will consume your life, the words contained on this website are now your bible.
I haven’t even made a fightstick, and it’s alredy all I want to do.
So, is making your own custom fightstick, considered modding?
Without getting into a dictionary definition battle, I’d say yes, because both require the same skills and knowledge. Of course if you can build cases without knowing how to do the parts and wiring, and you can mod existing cases without knowing how to build a case from scratch. I believe their’s enough overlap to use the term universally.
Yeah, that makes sense I suppose. Lol =D
Thanks jdm! I could probably just solder it back on but now that it’s off, I might as well replace it with a resistor. My next question is how on earth does one get the mounting plate on the sanwa jlf joystick? It came with bolts and nuts but the bolts don’t extend out of the bottom of the joystick. I get the feeling I need to take it apart to install the mounting plate but I don’t even want to attempt it without at least having an idea of what I’m doing.
Yes, you have to remove the Joystick PCB, by first remove the Restrictor Gate.
After you remove the PCB, you will see four holes to place the nuts in.
I got the nuts in but the bolts still don’t extend far enough to reach them! Maybe I was given the wrong bolts?
That does that make sense.
Because the nuts are right up there in the JLF Body.
The screws are 8mm.
They definitely be able to go into the nuts.
Do not make your own case, you need about $500 to $1000 in tools to make a one that is good enough to sell. Just buy a premade one. tek-innovations.com sells clear acrylic cases for cheap, or look in the trading outlet for Nitewalker and his simplecases.
Oh, wow. Thanks for the heads up on that. Lol
So, if I get a case from that Tek-Innovation site, it’ll just be a completely blank canvas, with the holes for the buttons and joystick?
Just go to his site and check for yourself.
Google is your friend. Ask are info stickies.
Yes, Tek Cases are a great case to use for building from scratch and it’s probable the most affordable custom case you will find. There’s also very many options to choose from (colors, button layouts, etc) in ordering a Tek Case. Also Focus Attack will begin offering DIY cases within the next few months so keep an eye on that (make sure you subscribe to the Focus Attack email list). Like rtdzign said, if you don’t already have access to the propper tools then you’re looking at a lot of money to invest in doing your own cases.
Okay, I want to get a plexi cover along with some new buttons, ball top and a clear dustwasher for my HRAP 3 SA (It’s not the V3 model. Here’s an example picture.)
I’m going for the clear buttons so I can switch out artwork and maybe get LED’s thrown in later. I just have a few questions before I order anything for this project.
1: I was going to go with the Sanwa OBSC buttons (two 24 and 8 30mm,) but I was just wondering, do I need any microswitches or anything or just the buttons themselves? The HRAP 3 already has Sanwa parts, so replacing the buttons should be easy right?
2: I wanted a clear dustwasher, but the options are shaft cover or no shaft cover. I looked at the examples at Tek-innovations, but I’m still confused. What’s the difference?
3: At the beginning of Part 7 of this HRAP modding tutorial on youtube by TreasureFan02, he talks about how he had to shave something down to fit a button. Is this because he is modding the HRAP EX here? (I think it is the EX? I need to watch the whole tutorial, it seems like a good one.) I don’t want to have to file anything down if I don’t have to.
I have other questions as well, but these are the three important ones right now. Thanks for any help or any pointers in the right direction to threads I might have missed that covered this stuff.
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The buttons come with microswitches and everything you need. HRAP 3 uses quick disconnects so you can just pop them off the old buttons and swap them out.
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Look at your arcade stick. The shaft, the part between the ball top and the case. Is it metal, or is it black plastic? A shaft cover is a plastic cover for the shaft, hence the name. I believe all HRAPS come with shaft covers. If you wanted to take the shaft cover off and have it be just metal you would go with no shaft cover. If you want to leave the shaft cover on you would go with shaft cover.
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That is referring only to screw-in buttons needing the plastic nut that screws them in to be shaved down to fit under the mounting plate of the joystick on the button closest to the stick. Since you are using OSBC snap-in buttons you wont need to shave the nut. However since you are getting a plexiglass you will need to shave off the little bumps on the side of the buttons so you don’t break the plexi. Picture for reference:
http://pineconeattack.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/100_0893.jpg
And I hate to promote a DSP video again but watch this video and the following parts to see how the modification process goes
[media=youtube]jQapbx7EwtU[/media]
[LEFT]I was about to type the same response.[/LEFT]
[LEFT]Laugh.[/LEFT]
It’s all good, JDM has more important business to attend to than fielding noob questions. :tup:
Noob soldering question about creating intentional solder bridges on the PCB. I had a tough time doing this to set the U+D behavior when putting together a Toodles SOCD kit. My method was putting some solder on each pad and “dragging” the iron through the solder to try to force a bridge. It took a few tries but it finally stuck. Is there an easier or more correct way of intentionally creating a solder bridge for these scenarios? Should I have used a short piece of wire instead?
Heh, sadly there’s no secret special trick or even tip to make it truly easy, just pile on the solder till it works. If you’re using a good iron, then the solder stays hot and flows easy which means it’ll split and not stick to both pads. Just wing it as best you can, it’s not a sensitive thing by any stretch. Using a small piece of wire is an option if you think it’ll help.
I just used small pieces of stripped wire to help bridge the gaps