here’s a 10 color wire kit im using: link
it’s 24awg though, but you can always strip twice as much wire as you need and fold it in half then crimp QDs.
that some weird stuff…I only use six button
top row: all punches
bottom row: all kicks
my 4th button on both row is set to none
I got a question, how do you fix a joystick that is loose when you move it.
Don’t use the “Arcade Stick” button mapping option, use the default controller button mapping. The “Arcade Stick” option is for Hori EX2 and RAP EX sticks that have the buttons in a different order.
Thank you very much. I recently bought my some tools(solder, soldering iron, xacto knife, and desoldering pump). I have another question I would like to ask.
What are some people doing to take out the tabs in the arcade stick other than using a dremel? I didn’t want to purchase something I would only use once every several years or never. Is it possible that I could just bend the tabs by using a hammer? I know it sound stupid, but I’m thinking it could be possible with some care and caution.
And I plan to buy the Sanwa joystick, do I need to buy another square gate? Or can I use the same gate that came with the hori stick? Or does it come with a square gate?
EDIT: oh and one more question: I notice on the art templates that the buttons are set as square/triangle/R1/L1, and X/O/R2/L2. Are people still using default button layout from the original arcade stick(L1/square/triangle/R1), but changed the configuration(in-game)? Or they are changing the buttons around?
You can file the tabs if you have a file.
If you feel can hemmer, then try that.
Also this:
JLF comes stock Square.
Cannot use the Hori Square on JLF.
Well after modify by cutting up and screwing on, then you can.
I don’t know what you mean about Buttons.
Thanks. So the JLF joystick does come with a square gate on it’s own?
This is what I meant from the buttons:
notice from the original/un-modded arcade stick, that the buttons are aligned in L1/Square/Triangle/R1 and L2/X/O/R2 instead of how some templates like this:
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9959/fs3elfuertea.jpg
or
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/5215/fs3bbragna.jpg
are aligned in Square/Triangle/R1/L1 and X/O/R2/L2.
Are people just re-configuring their game control settings to match their arcade stick? Or are they wiring the buttons to match to what the template says?
They wire it to match how they made the Template.
It is just moving wire or Button to another place.
That is all.
Square.
Stock.
Have you seen a Sanwa JLF before?
The clear thing on bottom is Restrictor Gate.
Cool, that’s what I was thinking… Just had to make sure, XD.
Well…I haven’t seen one in person yet, XD. Sorry, just had to make sure, that’s all, XD. Thanks for answering/confirming my questions.
I have an unmodded month old TE stick and the joystick stopped working. All of the buttons work fine, but the stick just went dead. I don’t know much about fightstick parts. I don’t know if its the joystick, or a connection problem. Do I have to buy a new joystick? Any help is appreciated.
Is the switch not set to DP?
Lol! Thank God for noob threads. Yep that was the problem. I never bothered with those switches to know what they actually do. Thanks.
Quick question for people with CPS3 knowledge.
What items do you have to have to play real arcade 3rd strike?From what I’ve gathered you need a CPS3 motherboard and a 3rd strike cart.Can the motherboard be from any CPS3 game or does it have to be a specific 3rd strike board?For example if I bought a Street Fighter III:New generation or Warzard board would this be compatible with a 3rd strike cart?
Also how do you go about setting up buttons to work with the board?Does it just have spaces to solder button wires onto like any normal joystick PCB?
CPS3 runs off of a CD ROM, cart and mainboard. From that You’ve got the mainboard hooked up to the JAMMA harness (which goes to the buttons and whatnot) your A/V out (monitor and speakers) and (of course) the power supply.
If you don’t have a 15k hz monitor (like you find in cabinets) you’re gonna have to rig yourself another form of video out (i.e. make a supergun).
As far as cross compatibility between games: From what I understand all the CPS3 boards are the same, sans how much RAM they come with. ideally you want to go with a game that has more memory (3s comes with the most, if I’m right). I don’t see why you couldn’t buy the extra ram though (the RAM is where everything from the CD gets flashed to to play, so you physically cannot run games without the proper allotment/configuration.) You could technically get a 2i or NG board, but you’re still gonna have to get the cd/ram/security cart for 3s.
There are also some CPS3 games that shiped with a NO-CD version, 3s and Jojos are two that I know exist, they’re damn rare though.
<edit> Awesome, thanks for the link lockon :3 24 gauge should work better, I just like dealing with larger wire personally.
I got the MadCatz SF4 SE stick. I have the parts said that should work. Do I just snap in? If not I’ll opt for the TE and mess with this one later. I have like less than a day to order it.
SE accepts snap-in or screw in sanwa/semitsu parts, as well as JLF/LS-32-01 sticks, completely mod-able with little effort.
Te amo muchicimo! Thanks!
The snap-in sealer part on my te stick cord storage door broke and I was wondering If there was a place that sells spare parts for the te. Thanks in advance!
my sincere question, why doesnt anyone ever recommend ls-40?
It is just that the LS-32(-01) is Seimitsu’s flagship Joystick.
And not many people have experience with LS-40(-01).
That is all I can say.
Laugh.
It was only recently that people tried out Seimitsu LS-56(-01).
And now the LS-56(-01) gets recommended too.
good stuff jdm
i did not know that LS-56-01 fits. i have to get one now. you make me spend money hahaha