Hey guys, so I need to figure out if I need to invert the triggers on a controller I’m pad hacking, and I’ve been told I need to test the voltage with a multimeter. Could anyone tell me how I would know what results meant what? Or could someone point me in the direction of a tutorial?
what type of controller are you padhacking
It’s an Xbox360 afterglow controller.
Which buttons are more durable: Sanwa or Seimitsu? I’m having trouble with a few Sanwa buttons dying out on me and I was wondering if the alternative might be more robust.
Possibly. I know Toodles likes to make sure that his MC Cthuhlu very converter-friendly. I haven’t tested it myself, and http://shoryuken.com/f177/converter-compatibility-thread-181187/ probably has what you are looking for. But I know that Pelican also has problems with digital PSX, and I don’t know if that’s what the MC runs, or if Toodles made it work with Pelican. I would say he’s the kind of guy to make it work, but I haven’t personally tested.
Grab your two prongs and set your multimeter to voltage. Find the lowest range that contains 5V. For example, my multimeter has a 1V, 4V, 40V, 120V, etc. range. I would use the 40V range, because it is the lowest range that contains 5V. Then (while the PCB is powered), touch your black prong to any ground point (use the black wire of the USB cord if you don’t know any), and touch it to Wiper, the center of the three triggers (The other two are Low and High. Low will read 0V, with respect to ground, and High will read 5V). That’s how you test for voltage.
If you want really durable buttons, you should get OBSF-30RG. They use microswitches suspended by magnets, as opposed to springs. The RS-SG last about 5 times the normal SW-68 microswitches. But they are harder to come by. Akihibarashop has them. AkihabaraShop.jp
I’m wanting to see about picking up an MCcth & Imp. I have a $25 amazon gift card i got for xmas. Is it kosher to offer it up as trade/partial payment to someone here? It’s an unscratched card, but i could also pass the code through via PM or email… but i know some sites are completely against digital currency of any kind (outside of paypal and the likes).
If its acceptable, should i just wtt in the trading area? Or wtb with the info?
It’s kosher.
From http://shoryuken.com/f226/new-up-date-rules-dont-sell-your-gold-te-stick-164983/
Nothing about gift cards here.
Also from same post:
So, post WTT.
I wouldn’t offer it to someone selling. They generally want money.
Aye, thanks. I did read through those rules, however, i’m a mod on a rather large nintendo-hack forum, and we’ve been having staff discussions about the use of cards like this… sooo, i figger’d i’d ask, just to be safe(ish).
Thanks 
EDIT: Ok, more questions. I want to get my hands on some cheap supplies for quick stick building. I have layout ideas in my head, and have nowhere near the funds to be able to fully put them all together, but i’d like to go ahead and start making a few, putting in shit parts that can be swapped for better parts when the time is right. Therefore, what are the parts found in the SE sticks? I know that’s an easy swap out for Sanwa’ing or Seimitsu’ing the stick later.
And, for a ground up build, outside of the pcb/stick/buttons/case & tools (soldering schtuff, any crimpers/cutters etc, a dremel), heres things i know i need, but have questions about
wire- (what’s a good preferred gauge?)
QD’s- (gonna get a metric fuck-ton of them 
ps- do they have the .110" size i saw on LL available at like… radio shack? I know nothing about sizing for things, just going by what i’ve seen available)
PCB feet- are they a requirement? Or just a standard useful thing but can be passed over?
Hey there, with MVC3 dropping soon I was thinking of replacing the parts on my TE stick. So what I’m generally looking for is a stick with smaller deadzones as I’ve begin to feel that the sanwa stick just feels a bit too loose. I’ve had a modded sanwa stick before (2 springs and post-its mod) but I felt like it just became to crumble after proper use and I was looking at the seimitsu LS-32(LS-32 (Seimitsu) - Arcadeshop.de) to replace my old one.
Sticking with sanwa buttons as I love them. Does anyone have any inputs on sticks with smaller deadzones?
Ugh, i hated the “noise” the seimitsu makes when hitting the gate. If u don’t hit the gate, great.
Now using a JLF, i honestly cant tell that the mitsu had a shorter throw. Even if it did it was so much stiffer than it wouldn’t matter to me, tactile speaking.
^^ This is a fight stick noobs impression of using both joysticks
Hmm ok, I’ve heard the opposite about the seimitsu sticks that they would have considerably smaller deadzones. Guess I gotta keep looking or stick with the ol JLF
Hey guys,
Having a very odd issue since migrating from Seimitsu push buttons to Sanwa. Never once had an issue with the mitsu’s when hitting 3PPP or 3KKK.
Now with the Sanwa I’m essentially finding myself executing Supers instead of Ultras. Input shows the following
:lp::mp::hp:
:mp::hp:
If I was hitting the :mp: :hp: a fraction of second before the :lp: why does the output show all 3 buttons were pressed?
Any tips to get my 3 fingers “in sync”? Don’t know why this wasn’t an issue on the Seimitsus.
You were, and it does. A new line gets put up every time there is something pressed that wasn’t pressed the input before, and it shows the full input.
In my experience the LS-40-01 has comparable tension to the LS-32-01 and a much smaller deadzone. Check out the chart at Slagcoin for a better idea about joystick attributes.
I should have mentioned i was also using a LS-32. As the above poster ^^ does mention a joystick that may actually have a “feelable” difference in throw.
Nice link Nobus.
ok guys and ladies… heres my prob buttons work on my stick but Up down left and right arent? i cant figure out why?? i have everything set up the same way as the buttons. Im using a shinjin axisadapter and cant figure out why?? Please help…
what controller are you using
sanwa jlf with the microswitches… i wasnt smart enough to get the harness damnit jim!!
…
is it a hori? madcatz? custom stick? how did you wire it up. but in a sense to help you out a little better…
what are you using.
sorry custom stick. i extracted a 6axis controller im using the axis adapter by shinjin and the controller box is a plexi glass box from arts hobbies. im using a sanwa jlf joystick with the microswitches. i wired it up with the negative wire running on the inside of each microswitch, while the positive runs along the outside prong of the switch. the same way i hooked up the buttons. buttons work but the stick doesnt and i dont understand why?