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A psd should be fine. If you use the madcatz template it should be set to print. Just carry it up there on a thumb drive or CD/DVD and tell them you want it printed to the dimensions listed in the file.
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You need the Imp (or at least a DPDT switch) if you’re connecting two . An Imp functions as an internal switch between two common ground PCBs (in your case the TE and MCC boards) and makes sure they’re both powered (see also: the Two Golden Rules of Dual Modding). Since you’re now talking about DC AND GC, just do an MCC + Imp + TE + RJ45 mod unless you really feel like having three permanent cables coming from the back of your stick.
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Hell yeah, make an NES stick! You can cannibalize nearly any pc compatible pad and use it as the pcb. I recommend a cheap Blanka 360 fightpad ($20 at Buy.com, just search via google shopping) since you don’t have to hack resistor arrays to it and it has a decently long USB cable. or you could add a regular MC Cthulhu since my modding mantra is “You’ll probably need it later” when it comes to which consoles you want it to work with.
Hey guys,
for Christmas I’m getting my first Arcade Stick ever. It’s that PS3 SFIV stick from Mad Catz and I heard it’s pretty good for a stick-newbie. I’ve been playing SFIV and SSFIV since both came out with a controller and had no big problems.
Anyway, I was wondering if there’s a thread or FAQ or what have you on how to handle a stick “properly”. I know there’s not really a “right” way to do it, you just gotta find a position that you’re comfortable with, but anyhow. Is there a thread like that around?
I actually bought the PS360 and plan to override the Madcatz PS3 panel for several reasons:
- 360 fightpads locally didn’t go down in price wtf
2)fuck soldering if I can have less/no soldering with PS360
3)Madcatz PS3 PCB is sooo picky with PC compatibility.
The PS3 Madcatz SE is definitely a good starter stick. However, sometime you’ll want to change up the parts as they’ll eventually break down if used continuously.
Here’s a video that might give you ideas how to hold the joystick: [media=youtube]PsME37GrqjY[/media]
@Nerrage: Ah! Thanks for the reminder of the quick discos 
I was only asking about what to do for a PCB, but you’ve answered questions i didn’t even know to ask. So thank you! Also, for using the SE parts in the Nes Stick- I have no extra parts, and i’ve opened my TE to quad-gate it and add tension to the stick (first ‘mod’), i’m converting an SE over to Sanwa and adding custom art (2nd thing) so i just want to build a full stick ‘from the ground up.’ And once i get the SE parts in it, i know Sanwa will swap out w/ no problem. (once i get new colors for my TE, i’ll probably swap out on my Nes). Thanks for the help 
@DaRabidDuckie- Kickass on PSD being acceptable. I’ll be throwing that, and a tiff, on my drive, just to be safe.
Now, if i snag a MCCth for my NEStick (catchy, no? ;), that will allow it to pretty much connect to anything sans 360/PS3… correct? Or am i misunderstanding? I’d go Fightpad (cheap and PC… my original plans), however, if i could use this w/ my DC… or heh, to play SMB1 on a Nes (too fucking meta :p), i’d like that option (covering all future bases, as you said)
Once more, Thanks for the help guys!
I currently have MadCatz TE from first production series it comes with JLF-TP-8YT-SK-W joystick with square gate (or so it says in TE thread here ).
From my experience this joystick works very nicely for 3D fighters but i have serious problem registering 2x 236 type moves in Blaz Blue (no such problem in SF IV but afaik SF IV is very generous when registering inputs) also it feels a bit slow in SHMUPS.
Are there any more 2D friendly joysticks to replace it with ? Should i try octogonal gate for it ?
Maybe someone could help me out.
Dual modding a ps3 TE stick. im missing something along the connection line and ive written all my connections out to dry and see what im missing but to not prevail. Im missing the bridge between the actual buttons and the chimp.
Ive been experimenting with the home button cause once i know it works ill do the rest. Ive screwed a ground wire from the 360 pad into the chimp and from there ive twisted a regular gauged wire with the home button wire and screwed those into the home spot on the chimp. The regular gauged wire runs into the original terminal that came with the stick. it then gets slipped in with one of the qds. from the the two wires running from the terminal to the buttons get plugged onto the button but when i press the button i get nothing.
i’ve tried trouble shooting ive touched the home wire on the pad with the ground wire from the pad while plugged into my xbox, so i know the pad itself is working. so it has to be either the buttons (which are new) to the terminal or the terminal to the chimp.
Any feedback as always is appreciated : )
Has anyone ever modded a hori arcade stick 3? My friend is interested in buying it and modding it but doesn’t know how accessible it is to get inside and what the wiring is like. My guess is that the buttons and joystick are fully soldered and whatnot.
Here’s the link to it:
HORI Fighting Stick 3 Arcade stick - Game console
Can anyone also give their opinion on the pcb aswell?
What type of paint would I need to cover the “Wings” of my TE round 2? Specifically white paint, I’m guessing I’d need a lot of layers?
Thanks a lot.
Wait, you’re using ChImp, Xbox pad and PS3 TE? You don’t need the PS3 TE PCB if you have ChImp, that is a PS3 controller in itself. Okay, well, since you have only tested home, make sure your lock switch isn’t on. After that, check and make sure that ground is wired up okay. Make sure it works fine on one system.
The 360 PCB is working, that’s good. Now, is it wired up okay and working with all of your buttons? Try that and then try to move onto the dual mod. I don’t know exactly what all you’ve done. So that’s the best I can tell you. Pictures and/or more details help.
Really noobie questions
Does an LS-56 fit on a TE’s mounting brackets?
If not, then does an LS-33 spring thrown in a jlf = ls-56 stiffness? If not, more or less?
LS-56 fits the TE’s mounting brackets. But it comes with Seimitsu VF mounting plate, you need MS mounting plate to mount it properly.
I finished my SE stick mod months ago. Now I want to go back and remove the trouble spots.
I sprayed vinyl dye too heavily and I got drips and uneven spots in some areas. Is it a good idea to sand down the rough areas or will that just ruin the plastic of my stick?
sand it down it wont ruin the plastic if you pay attention to what you are sanding.
First give the vinyl dye a few days in a warm environment to stabilize before you sand it down – it tends to seep in over time. It may end up fixing itself.
I have a question if anyone can help me out. For anyone who already installed their PS360 pcb, is it possible have a wire connecting the ground and home terminals to make the start and select button pushed together register the home button like the MC Chutulu pcb?
If you have a stick with only 2 guide buttons, your only option is to have Home = Turbo (For console switching purposes ONLY, you will not have a turbo button), and you will have no back/select button. To do this, simply connect Home/Guide to Turbo. If you add another guide button, you can have Select/Back = Turbo, again for console switching purposes only, connect Select/Back to Turbo/ If you want turbo, start, select/back, and Home, then you must have 4 buttons. See this document for more details on the PS360: http://www.beckfolio.com/download/PS360.pdf
However, if you wanted to use the Start + Select/back as a home, you could use the format where Select = Turbo, and then see this thread: http://shoryuken.com/f177/wiring-back-start-%3D-guide-button-173785/#post6021495
But that requires an OR logic gate, and probable soldering, which I don’t know if you want to do that, because PS360 is solderless.
Grab an Imp. You don’t have to wire any of the USB stuff, just connect it to power, ground, Start, Select, and Guide/Home. Make sure to connect the jumper on the bottom of the Imp to enable S+S=G. Connect Select to Turbo for console changing. So if you want to change consoles, hold Select when plugging in, and when you want to activate Home/Guide, press both Start and Select.
Using the steps described in the link Nerrage posted would work just as well and be cheaper, but not quite as nice as the labelled points on the Imp.