I have a question concerning the difference between two types of usb’s that have come to my attention now.
Does a usb with the label “high speed 2.0” mean that its a better option for arcade stick use than a regular usb? I don’t know what the term “high speed” refers to. Does that mean it increases the speed of which signals of button inputs are transferred, ergo its the better option?
When it comes to cables, USB is USB is USB as long as the ends match. The fact that a cable says it supports USB 2.0 is just marketing hooplah when it comes to the cables themselves. At the end of the day, you’re still just transferring a signal over the same copper cables.
What USB 2.0 actually IS, is a serial bus protocol that enables devices to communicate back and forth with a computer faster.
You can also read this for more information: USB 2.0, Hi-Speed USB FAQ
Does anyone know where I can post a dual-modding question?
More specifically, I’ve been having some issues with my 360 TE Round 2 stick. This happens very very rarely, but there was a time where my roundhouse button would stop working as I was playing, but it would go back to normal once I unplugged and plugged back in my stick.
Another issue I’ve had was when I went to see if my dual mod works on the PS3. Everything was fine until it randomly disconnected and reconnected to the PS3 (all the while this was plugged in).
This was all one time issues and I will test the stick out again to see if the problem persists.
The HK button thing is a known issue with 360 TE sticks. It just happens, and the only sure-fire resolution is to replug or replace the PCB.
As for the dual mod question, what type of board was added to your stick? If it was a Cthulhu or Chimp you should follow the troubleshooting guide here, and then post a question in that thread if that didn’t resolve your problem.
@papertigre: hey, thanks for the offer. I’m in the Lancaster region. So it’s a minor haul out to where you are. I may take you up on it later on if i look to do major solder jobs.
@darabidduckie: Oh thank you for the youtube vid. I was sure i could find one there, but time hasn’t really allowed much research. I have soldering stuffs around me, just very limited time. This may give me the nudge i need 
@Roy0: i can’t answer all your questions, but i can let you know that in this thread, i’ve asked horrifically noob questions and people have graciously answered w/out batting an eye. They are also hella knowledgeable, so higher end questions pop up in here too.
So ya came to the right place.
And one more question: I don’t have a PS3 and am not needing that aspect of the MC mod with any urgency (i want it… to have it, but it’s not required) however i’d love the Dreamcast action (my 9mth old loves the agetec stick, and i’d like to start up training and let him just jam buttons while i eff around ;). Is there a cheaper option than MCCth/Imp for adding just DC action to my 360TE?
(i’m assuming not… i’m just checking all options)
Just go with MCC + Imp with a Dreamcast cable attached (or even better, an RJ45 port with a dreamcast cable). You’ll appreciate having the added PS3 functionality more in the long run. It’s nice being able to walk in to a gathering and think “Oh yeah, I got this covered”
I dont understand the dislike for the PS360 guys. TBH if you are doing a stick from scratch and only want ps3/360 support then i think it is pretty good since most people only really want those two systems anyway. as for the turbo button, getting mad at that is irrelevent because all you have to do is wire that to the select button and you are good to go, its not like it requires an actual seperate button. No one really uses turbo anyway. As far as the TE and stuff goes this board would not be a good choice but i dont really think it was made for those unless the stock sticks pcb gets faulty. i really am looking forward to doing sticks for people using this PS360. 1 pcb and less than a cthulhu/chimp plus 360 pad. the PS360 is 50 shipped and a 360 pad plus cthulhu/chimp shipped is 60, 65.
You could go with just a Dreamcast PCB that’s common ground, and link all the signals. I personally do not know what dreamcast pcbs are or are not common ground…
I think it may be a backwards resistor array on the ChImp, if that’s what you’re using. I had the same problem with my very first dual mod. It worked fine for a while, but it just became a bad problem.
There’s no need for the Imp if you’re not dual modding for PS3 and 360. I mean, if you already have the 360 PCB and want PS3, then yes, an imp is good. But if you just want 360 and DC, then just go for either two cords coming out, or what would be better is like what Duckie says: RJ45 port. You connect GND and VCC (which are shared) to two rows of the RJ-45, then the 3 Data wires of DC (Columns B, C, and F) will go to three rows. Then Data + and - of the 360 will go to another two rows. One row will be empty. Then make RJ-45 cables accordingly.
Of course, it really would just be easier if you went the RJ-45 route to follow rtdzign’s guide: http://shoryuken.com/f177/rj-45-mc-cthulhu-imp-xbox-360-dual-mod-tutorial-diagram-225565/ Though it costs an Imp, you still can just make a USB cable and DC cable, but if you ever want more systems, you can make more cables, then you’re not limited.
His Agetec PCB is common ground. But I don’t know if I’d sacrifice such a thing.
I wouldn’t want Turbo on my Select. I use it for resetting training positions on blazblue all the time, so a turbo that I could accidentally activate when I don’t even want a turbo button is a bad thing. I’m not saying it’s a bad PCB. I’m really glad that there is a common ground custom 360 PCB. It provides a solderless build for a person in a blank case. But that’s the only time it is useful. For modders who are worth their salt soldering, and the fact that there already is a PCB in most sticks being modded, a $50 PCB is heavy overkill when you often only need either an Imp/DPDT and fightpad or a ChImp/DualStrike SMD, which really limits its usefulness. It’s a good PCB. I just can’t ever see myself using it. And $10 extra is worth having console autodetection to many customers, honestly, especially if you’re dropping money for a custom wired from scratch, $10 is almost nothing.
When turbo is wired to select is ceases function as a turbo button and just acts as select/back. its only turbo when choosing which console you want to use it on. so accidently causing it to go off wont ever happen. I understand when you say using it with a te or a stick that already has a pcb is irrevelent as i also agree with that. But i still believe its something nice to go in a stick built from scratch. saves alot of space for smaller customs because i am sure many other modders other than myself know what a tight squeeze a cthulhu/chimp plus 360 pad plus fgwidget led board take up. it just makes for a cleaner install and it is nice to see people coming out with 360 pcbs now.
also for the guys that are looking for common ground dreamcast pcbs. This is the one i have used in mods previously.
Amazon.com: Mad Catz Dream Pad: Video Games the madcatz dreamcast pcb. so easy to hack up and you can just get the used one for 4 bucks plus the shipping rather than 14 for the shipping.
Ah, wasn’t aware about the Select button bit. I’m not saying it’s a bad PCB. I’m just saying I doubt I’d ever use it.
Its handy… I have a couple of projects with it now. Working on presentation with the wires and it should look pretty good. in smaller cases yes the space does get a little tight but I dont think I ever really had an issue with space. If you really want to think about it… the P360 really replaces the paewag pcb’s people have been using. its a solderless replacement for those pcb’s. Damn waste of a good fightstick when you gutted them for that pcb imo…
I understand im not trying to argue with you trust me. i just kind of like the idea of this and the paewang and such. i just like the xbox 360/ps3 2 in 1 pcbs
understand exactly what you mean but i am not talking about for modders such as you or myself when we can make them fit like we are supposed to. I just mean for people that do it for themselves and usually have rats nests for wiring jobs. they have one less pcb to fit into there stick hahahaha. Im looking forward to seeing your projects. to tell you the truth i am kind of disappointed that they come with terminals because yes it makes the wiring job easier but you just dont get that cool presentation of the wires laying flat soldered on the pcbs hahaha, i have always liked that look.
Where did you read that? From what I understand, the reason you would use the turbo in conjunction with the back is in a case like my EX2 it’s going into, if I want the rest of my sticks buttons to go to the proper signals, I would have nowhere to put my turbo, so you double it up to the back button that way it’s out of the way.
If you go to focus attacks website then to the page with the ps360 you can read the install primer and it explains it in there. They do it that way i believe because honestly turbo is a wasted function anyway so for people that dont want it even on their sticks they can get rid of it that way.
Alright, I see now. I actually just looked at the pdf for the first time and it mentions it there. I was just going off pictures because everything seems pretty straight forward.
Also, Turbo isn’t “useless”, it has its use for SHMUPS.
ah shmups would make sense but i was just speaking for the majority who use their sticks for fighting games. but shmups do make sense continuously mashing fire makes my wrist sore hahahaha
Heh, 3 more questions:
When taking my template to Kinkos to get my lami-lable print for my SE- What file type should i make it? Thumb drive = acceptable? Any special dimensions i need to ask for?
So, if i just go MCCth w/out imp (on my TE 360), i can do DC and GC? Is it a dick to add in an imp later?
Since i’m getting into basic modding, i’m going to have shit parts lying around. I want to make quick USB sticks for my PC. (got the case off of a broken NES at the inlaws this last week. I want a Nes stick :p) What do i need for the innards? (i’ll have SE stick/buttons, but… pcb?)
Thanks 
TIFF format is nice because your settings like DPI, size, etc. are locked in. Of course, I’m sure any image format is fine. Flash drive should be okay.
You can, but if you want RJ-45, you need to use an Imp for that. If you want a bunch of system cables hanging out, that’s fine. Imp wouldn’t be hard to add in. You would remove the USB cable from the 360 PCB, solder it onto Imp PCB, connect the common VCC and ground that are already connected from the dual mod to the Imp, then solder two wires from 360 PCB and 2 wires from MC Cthulhu PCB, both to Imp. But if you wanna do RJ-45, you should definitely do it first.
You need stuff to drill open the NES case. Preferably forstner drill bits in 30 and 24mm. You’ll need a PCB of sorts, that’s up to you, for what systems you’d like. A plain fightpad PCB would work for PC, if you were willing to do the padhack. Could step it up a bit and get a PS3-only Cthulhu, but that’s a bit more expensive. I’d still not just dump the SE’s parts into it, but I suppose you would always be able to upgrade later.
Everything else you’ll need you’ll probably have. Aside from insulated quick disconnects. You’ll need .110" female quick disconnects, and I’d get about 20 for 6 buttons, 25 for 8 buttons, just to be sure to have enough. You’ll need 2 per button. But everything else you’d need such as wire and tools and such will be in your possesion after doing a mod. Except for maybe crimpers for those QDs. But if you get the cheap wire strippers from radio shack, they also can crimp insulated QD terminals.