Are the Yenox hole plugs flat?
Trying to switch out the buttons on my new te-s, but the panel wont come off seems to be glued. Any suggestions?
Pull it off harder.
You are being too soft.
There is glue, yes.
the TE panel does use a bit of glue to hold everything in place, the TE-S uses a bit more glue to hold the art in
I would say the TE-S holds everything tighter with the glue that they have.
Try using a butter knife to carefully pry the art off without bending it.
EDIT: nvm, found it.
Though, question. I’ve seen people being able to mod the Chun sticks. but for the life of me, I can’t get the buttons out, feels like they’re glued in there. Any tips? 
Carefully yet firmly press one of the snap in wings while pushing up real firmly on the upraised part underneath the wing. It should come out a little and click. Then move on the other side and back and fourth until it pops out.
I’d say you would have to handle it, “Gingerly” to not break the snap in tab.
The grip used to push it out would be the similar to a female (or dude, i’m not judging) putting a condom on a dude with both thumbs and index fingers.
… I would of said “grip it like your pulling off plastic wrapping off a small PVC pipe”, but your sentence work just as well. 
Probably the first time I’ve seen that analogy, but I get where you’re coming from. Right! Shall try it later when I can be arsed opening my stick again =)
I kept having a lot of problems thinking it was the little nubs on the inside of the buttons. But they just wouldn’t budge at all. I’ll give it a shot, thanks!
Ah, the Datel/joytron/paeywong (sp?) stick. The best thing about it is the dual console PCB, which is why 90% of people buy them. As for the stick and buttons… they are somewhat lacking, to put it nicely. The gate is square, and I don’t know for sure if it can be swapped out without some modifications. Same goes with the actual stick and buttons. Compared with Sanwa or Seimitsu parts, the parts in the Datel stick don’t feel as accurate, and aren’t a drop in solution. You CAN modify the case to accept a JLF or 30mm buttons if you desired, but it’s not a direct fit, plug and play deal.
Is this the stick for you? Depends really. If you want to play a quick game or two at your buddies house, and either have a different system than you, or you have both consoles and want a stick that works on both out of the box, fine. Or, if you have tools, patience and don’t mind putting some elbow grease into your modification, you’re still good to go. But if you’re serious about your play, or want more options and a much easier route to modifying sticks, buttons, art templates, etc, saving for the SE (or better still the TE) or an HRAP may be a better idea.
Either way, the dual console compatability on one PCB makes that stick worth it’s weight in gold to the modding community. Until something else comes along, which it will in the next few weeks…
I didn’t really see a place to ask questions about broken sticks, so I hope no one objects me asking here.
In short, while doing nothing strenuous or out of the ordinary last night, with my TE, it simply stopped working. The buttons, joystick and even the turbo/ home panel stopped responding, as if I had unplugged it. This wasn’t the case since I could clearly see the front of my PS3 and it was still plugged in, unplugging it and plugging it back in in the other USB seemed to fix it for a while. Then the same thing happened, so I unplugged it from the second and plugged it back into the first, and it worked once more. I played normally for the rest of the night. I turn it on today and it plays fine, stalls at one point but quickly corrects itself. That is until it completely stops working, I tried the unplug/ plug back in thing, nothing. I tried turning the PS3 off and on, nothing.
After a while, it comes back on of it’s own accord, all of the turbo lights on and all but the Square button set to turbo (even though the Square light was still on). I try to turn the buttons off by normal means, nothing. This goes on for about 20 minutes before it turns off once more, however, when I press a button the turbo light for the corresponding button blinks once then nothing. If I hold it down the turbo light blinks twice pauses and repeats. At a point it started working perfectly fine while turbo was on every button. Then it dropped turbo off every button and worked fine too, though I couldn’t navigate the PShome thing, but I could play games with it.
Currently it’s dead in my lap and has been for a good while now.
I think the problems are too varying for it to be a wiring problem, but that’s kinda what it feels like to me. Any ideas?
tl;dr: Sticks dead. Halp.
So I have nice relatively new (few months) TE fight stick, but over the past couple days I’ve been having some issues with it. It seems whenever I input a forward and then a quarter turn I get a shoryuken motion, I went to training mode and it’s picking up the motions I get quarter turns displayed on the ticker at the side after the forward input but a shoryuken or similar move comes out instead. Do I need to replace its stick, can it be fixed or am I being stupid?
That is the SFIV Engine.
It is the lenience.
If you do the QCF slower after Forward Direction, you will not get Shoryuken.
Hadoken will come out.
If anything to fix, it is your playing.
Alright thanks, I only asked because I hadn’t noticed this until now. Besides fixing my gameplay is cheaper than fixing my stick
Yeah for walk up Hadouken you need to walk forward then start the quarter circle motion from down back, turning it into a 3/8th circle motion to negate the shortcut motions.
Whats the length of the TE’s compared to the Hori VLX?
I’m switching out the buttons on my te-s, and the buttons aren’t snapping in? feels like the te-s panel is too thick or something.
nevermind, just had to shave off the teeth on the buttons with my knife, perfect fit.
I have a super noob question.
What size screw/bolt (US) do I need for a Seimitsu MS mounting plate?
(Edit: To mount the plate on a panel, I mean, not to attach the plate to a joystick)