The page has screw ins that arent that expensive. you are looking at a discontinued button so its higher than usual (unless you already knew that).
I figured they were discontinued. What exactly is the difference in screw ins and snap ins? What do the screw ins screw into?
PS-14-K are discontinued.
Only PS-14-KN are available now.
PS-14-K use 15mm x 12mm Microswitch; TKC MM9-3.
That means the Microswitch can be swapped for standard Sanwa SW-68.
PS-14-KN use 18mm x 18mm Microswitch; TKC MM9-4.
Cannot use Sanwa SW-68.
Can put in a Sanwa RS-SG Microswitch though; OMRON B2R.
But the Microswitch Actuator will not mate with the Plunger Slot.
PS-14-K are Snap-in Buttons.
They secure to Control Panel be the snap tabs.
PS-14-KN are Screw-in Buttons.
They secure to Control Panel by use of a Nut.
Any Japanese 30mm Button will work.
Sanwa Screw-in requires modify the Nut for LK Button.
Or switch for Seimitsu Nut.
Seimitsu Screw-in will work.
Have to put Nut under Mounting Bracket for LK.
Then screw in the Button, instead of usual putting Button in and screwing on Nut.
As always thanks. The mounting bracket is the yellow circle displayed in the picture?
Mounting Bracket is what a Joystick in mounted onto with Mounting Plate.
The yellow thing is the Nut used to screw a Screw-in Button to Control Panel.
you said have to put under mounting bracket for lk… wouldnt all the nuts have to be under mounting bracket?
Look at your TE.
Remove your Control Panel and see.
Do you know what a Control Panel is?
Do you know what a Mounting Bracket is?
The whole thing remove I am telling is Control Panel.
There are holes for Buttons on the Control Panel.
A Mounting Bracket is welded to Control Panel.
A Joystick is mounted to Mounting Bracket.
Lightbulb
Yes.
Nut is a proper noun, man. Don’t you dare leave that uncapitalized.
Actually, I sometimes wonder which are proper nouns for jdm714. Only two I know off the top of my head are Nut and Crimpers.
I’ve a few JLF questions if anyone can spare a couple of minutes.
First of all, can I take out the PCB and put HAPP Cherry switches in without any problems? Is it a direct swap?
Next up is the AkihabaraShop Ultimate mod. Instead of using tape or heatshrink to make the actuator larger (to hit the gate earlier), is there a more professional method? Tape works fine, but something as hard as the plastic actuator would be perfect.
Finally, what’s the largest spring that fits? I currently combine an LS-32 with an LS-33. Can I get a similar strength with a single spring? And could I make it firmer with a different combination?
Also, I don’t suppose any of you know if the 360 version of the Tekken 6 HRAP comes with a 5-wire harness? If I fitted Cherry switches I’d need to replace the PCB due to the lack of common ground, right?
I hate the way Omron switches make you return the stick really far towards neutral to release them. I ride the gate, so I prefer having that initial distance to engage a switch on the JLF. But once I’ve hit the gate, I’d like to be able to release a couple of mm and go again. Have I explained that okay? I think my fingers are really aged! I’ve noticed that however hard I try, I can’t stop my forearm from interfering to speed up my inputs.
Per from AS recommends 30 cm of tape for a square gate, but I’ve found the high-40s to be ideal for me. Wish it was a tiny bit less squidgy, though, as I mentioned above. I’m using a shaft extender I bought from Laugh, by the way. I wear large motorbike gloves, so I guess I’ve got proper trap-hands. 
Right, I’ve rattled enough. Thanks very much.
If you want to have it so that it is microswitches ONLY, buy 4 Sanwa MS-0-2P microswitches to replace Sanwa TP-MA. I’m guessing it is because you may be working with non common ground setup. Which is cool, even if you’re not. I like without PCB. 
If it is because you don’t like Omron microswitches and want Cherry microswitches, I don’t know what to say what Cherry would fit. But if you do this, you’ll have Sanwa microswitches, not Omron.
Tekken 6 wireless PCB is common ground. I’m pretty sure it doesn’t have the connector in there because it doesn’t have awesomesauce parts. But you can use one. But if you just replacing microswitches, there’s not really a way you’ll have a PCB, you’ll have to do it without one. Because there isn’t a Cherry PCB for Sanwa.
Can’t think of a better way than tape or heat shrink tubing. I don’t think there’s enough interest in a hard plastic actuator that’s big enough to justify making a mold for it. If you like having a shorter throw, why not try LS-32? Or maybe LS-40 for super short throw? Or maybe LS-56 for tight spring? Try this chart: Joystick Controller - Joystick and Button Attributes and Brand Parts
- yes heres a tutorial Sanwa JLF Cherry Mod: Part 1 - Watch Video - Kendin Co?
- I have seen people use the “sharpie permanent marker” pen top as a hard plastic alternative to that mod.
- I’m sure you can find one at home depot but as for component springs such as sold by Lizard Lick the two you mentioned worked very well but there are stronger springs you can find at a hardware store.
- I think the tekken 6 HRAP came with a diffrent style harness but I’m sure JDM714 will correct me if I am wrong on that one haha.
Thanks, guys.
It’s great to see that I can trade switches without a mod. The wiring’s no biggie 'cause I’ll probably use my own PCB anyway. The LS-32/33 combo feels nice to me, so that’s all good; just wondered, is all.
I know the PS3 T6 RAP came with a harness (I’ve seen a photo of it on here), but I don’t know about the 360 one. Like I say, it’s no problem so long as the PCB’s not hard to remove. I’ll have a look around in the garage for something that might work as an actuator. But again, tape’s not too bad.
Nerrage: I have an LS-40. I really like it for charge characters, but I’m trying to learn Viper, Ibuki and some others now. I actually prefer the longer throw of the JLF; the Seimitsu switches engage too close to neutral for me. That is why I’d rather go with Cherry on a JLF, yeah. Those are on and off with just a tiny amount of travel*.
If the stick moves 8 mm to the gate in each direction (as an example), I like the switch to go on at 7 and back off at 6. You can make a Suzo 500 work in this way with a small mod, but I find they don’t have enough overall travel for 2D games. [media=youtube]UMgZ231Q12A[/media].
Much appreciated. :china:
*The Cherry itself hardly has to move between its on and off state, I mean.
You can Cherry, yes.
There is this.
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=202652/
The only Xbox 360 HRAP that are Common Ground are:
HRAP VX SA
HRAP VX SE
HRAP BlazBlue Continuum Shift
HRAP Arcana Heart 3
HRAP EX Premium. VLX
Futurespec doesn’t want OMRON.
The Sanwa MS-02-P are OMRON, and those Futurespec have problem with.
And he asking about HRAP Tekken 6.
Not the Tekken 6 Wireless.
That’s brilliant. Thanks a lot.
The T6 HRAP has my favourite layout, with the JLF more to the left and the buttons a bit higher up. I’m leaning towards a dual PCB anyway, but it would’ve been nice to keep the mic input. I’ll have to get the wireless one.
You can remove the Hori PCB and replace with Common Ground Xbox 360 PCB.
If you are cool with that.
Then you can Dual Mod.
And if you cooler, route the new Xbox 360 PCB to the Hori Microphone.
Heh, I think buying a wireless mic is easier. (Wish I could use my PS3 Logitech one.)
Cheers, man.
Is there anywhere to pick up a Dreamcast to USB adapter? I’ve been searching half-heartedly for the past year or so, but haven’t found any sources that still carry them. Sites are mentioned when i jfgi, but they all say ‘out of stock.’
Down the line, i’m going to get into multi-modding for systems, but i’d like a quick fix for now (so wife® and i can play some legit feeling arcade games ;))