Turn PCB into Common Ground with use of Hex Inverters and Analog Switch or Optocoupler or Transistors and Resistors.
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=178461
bencao74 also sell the PCB if you do not want to make.
Is there any reason a Dreamcast board and a Xbox 360 board in the same stick would cause both PCBās to freak out?
I just tried a dual mod of DC Mas stick using two different Xbox 360 PCBās, both produced by Madcatz. On both of them, the same errors happened. The 360 board would have the following happen when I used the board:
The guide button would not work at all.
A, B, X, Y, Start, Up, Down, Right, would work perfectly fine.
When pressing Left on the joystick, RB would activate.
When pressing LB, nothing would happen, or it would randomly work.
When I plug the Dreamcast in, the inputs would go haywire, just randomly spewing out inputs!
Note that I didnāt have both plugs plugged in at the same time.
VCC (5v) was interconnected.
Iām doing this on a iL eurojoystick with comp buttons.
Any thoughts?
And you followed the golden rules?
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=7702528&postcount=2910
Yes. The grounds were chained via the stick (and the grounds were daisy chained already), and the VCC was connected to the +5v on the dreamcast board directly, unless I was completely wrong about which wire was +5v on the dreamcast board.
I donāt think so, I know itās usually red, but let me double check.
EDIT: Toodles, youāre boss. I just checked slagcoinās site for the board, and OMG, red isnāt +5v on the board, blue wire is. That was the problem!
Going to go fix this!
That worked. What a foolish mistake I made!
wow, so much effort you put trying to mod my stick. mad props man! i would have gave up after 1 try.
Hey guys. Iāve been lurking for a while, and I decided to make this ultra-long-winded question my first post! Sorry for bumping an older thread, but I figured it was better than making a whole new one, at least for now.
hereās a nice tiny tl;dr
3 PCBs wired to individual male DB25 plugs, connected to a DB25 switch. The āoutputā on the switch goes to the button inputs. I purposely would use two commons, since the 360 PCB needs one ground and one common line for the triggers. The PS1 and USB cords will stick out of the case, but the 360 board will be powered by an āinternalā battery that will be recharged via the Play-and-Charge cable port mounted somewhere on the outside of the case, along with the Sync button and headset jack. Is there any reason why this wouldnāt work, besides running out of room inside the stick case?
and hereās the huge post elaborating on the tl;dr
So I got a HORI Fight Stick 3 for incredibly cheap, and it arrives tomorrow. I donāt have a PS3, so I want to put PCBs in it for systems that I do have, while leaving the PS3 PCB inside so it can still be used on a PS3 if need be. Iāve done tons of research on ādual-PCBā setups in arcade sticks, and Iām experienced in soldering. What Iām looking for here is for someone to overview my āschematicsā and general logic to see if itās all sound; itās been a while since Physics in senior year of high school. So without further ado, hereās what I want to put in my stick:
1.) A PS1 digital pad (or DualShock 1) for use on PS1/PS2. All of these are common ground, and the PCB is powered by 3.3V via its cable. Definitely being put in the stick.
2.) A wireless 360 controller PCB, but unfortunately all I have at the moment is the older āMatrixā version (see here). However, I think Iāll be able to get one of my friends to swap PCBs in one of his newer controllers, which is the new CG board (see here). The controller will be powered by the battery pack, and be able to be recharged with the Play-and-Charge cable.
3.) The original PCB (HORI for PS3) is, from everywhere Iāve read, completely common ground. I will definitely confirm this with a multimeter when I actually get the stick, but Iām pretty confident it is. This is actually lowest priority since I donāt have the system anyway.
Now, I got this idea from one of the posts in this thread, but the post got largely ignored for some reason. I think itās a pretty ingenious idea, but I just want to make sure itās not going to fuck anything up inside my stick when I go to test it out. To reiterate, I get myself one of these these 4-way DB25 switches online and gut it for its parts so they fit into the stick case. I wire all of the buttons/stick to a male DB25 connector, along with a daisy-chained ground wire to one of the pins and a second ācommonā wire exclusively for the 360 PCBās triggers, like so:
http://minifoo.bemaniso.ws/images/fs1.png
This attaches to the āinput/outputā on the DB25 switch. Then, I take the controller PCBs and wire them like the diagram below. For clarityās sake, I didnāt draw lines for the actual inputs here, just the grounds/commons (and LT/RT). Assume colored pins without āwiresā coming out of them in the picture are actually wired to their respective buttons from the chart in the previous picture.
http://minifoo.bemaniso.ws/images/fs2.png
If the picture isnāt clear enough, then Iāll explain. The HORI FS3 comes with its own PS3 PCB, which I will detach from the buttons and reuse on its own DB25 connection (if I have room, haha). The PS1 board will have its own as well, and the cord will stick out of the box with the PS3 boardās USB, probably connected or wrapped together so they canāt be plugged in at the same time. For both of these boards, pins 1 and 14 will be linked together, since L2 and R2 are on the same ground as the rest of the buttons and therefore donāt need the separate common line. When the DB25 switch has the PS1 board selected, the Home button will do nothing because it isnāt wired.
As for the 360 board, notice that LT and RT have their own common line separate from the common ground. The Guide button is wired to pin 7, which will be activated by the Turbo button (or even the actual Guide button from my controller, if it fits closely enough! More on that in a sec). The sync button is extended out to a button that will be placed somewhere on the outside of the FS3ās case, along with a headset extension. The rechargeable battery from a Play-and-Charge kit is mounted in the case onto the battery contacts, and the top controller port is extended out to the side of the case as well to receive the PnC cord when the controller needs to charge.
As for replacing the Turbo button with the 360 controllerās Guide buttonā¦ if it fits, then I will most likely extend the LEDs on the controller up to the button so I have the ring of light again. This is totally bottom priority, but something Iād really like to do if everything else goes smoothly. (If Iām just extending the LEDs with wires straight from the PCB, I donāt need any resistors unless theyāre different colors, right?) Hell, I might just rip out the Turbo board, because who uses that shit anyway?
Now, here are some questions I have:
1.) A really really really stupid question, but better an obvious answer than fried PCBs. On the PS3 and PS1 connections to the DB25 switch, linking pin 1 and 14 is completely harmless, and exactly the thing I would need to do in order for L2 and R2 to work, correct?
2.) Extending the Sync button and headset jack away from the PCB will be easy, but Iām a bit more hesitant about the PnC port and the battery contacts. Is it really just a simple matter of desoldering both, extending wires from the pots/pads they were removed from, and soldering those wires in the correct places on the removed items? I would be checking thoroughly for shorts throughout the project, but especially here.
3.) My major concern: everywhere Iāve read about dual- and multi-PCB arcade sticks, itās always stressed that the boards are common ground and powered at all times, even though only one is in use at any given moment. It seems everyone here tends to do something like this, which doesnāt involve a switch, and you run the risk of some idiot doing damage to your stick by plugging in two or more boards at once if you donāt use diodes or fuses. But with the DB25 switch method, I donāt have to worry about linking all of the PCBs together like thatā¦ right? I mean, if the switch is set to, say, the PS3 board, then the PS1 and 360 boards are completely cut off from the buttons and therefore wonāt leech any voltage, or am I wrong? Iām not entirely sure how those parallel port switches work, but I assume that since the LPT standard only transferred data/grounds and not power, that the switch does completely cut off the ports not currently in use. Plus with this setup, if Iām using the PS1 or PS3 board and I accidentally press āGuideā (Turbo), the 360 PCB will not turn on and fuck shit up. The switch would have to be set to the 360 board in order for the Guide signal to be activated; otherwise, it either doesnāt do anything (PS1) or it activates the Turbo (PS3). Somebody please confirm my theories regarding this, as I am not an electrical engineer and Iām not claiming to be one! Thanks, and all of the info in this thread has been a huge help so far, even if Iām still just in the planning stages! 
Bump!
I got my stick today, and itās a lot shorter height-wise than I thought it would be, haha. I might alter my plans and just put either the 360 or PS1 board in it along with the switch, and a DB25 port on the outside of the case if I want to use anything else. Project boxes are okay in my book, lol. My general concept is still the same, though. Anyone want to give me some feedback here?
One of these would be perfect for your Play and Charge woes. Just mount this to the outside of the 360 project box and then plug the Play and Charge into the female A end. That way, you could just plug in a generic USB cable to the female B end any time you wanted to charge it. No desoldering or hacking of the cable required. =) (let me know if this isnāt quite what you had in mind, or iām not understanding, etc) (Also note that Neutrik USB ports are reversible, so you can have either the A or B end facing the inside. Your choice)
The DB25 is a great solution, and itās what I personally used before moving to an MC Cthulhu + Imp. Iām just a bit unsure why youāre wanting all of them inside the stick. If everything will have a DB25 connection and be in itās own separate project boxes, why not connect them all from the outside? That way no switch, only one box at a time, and itād leave the inside of the stick a lot nicer in terms of clean, empty space.
Well yeah, the reason for the switch was because I had been planning to put them all inside the stick, but thatās iffy at this point. I do want at least one PCB inside the stick though, just as a matter of principle, haha. I havenāt done any desoldering or anything yet; Iāve just opened the back panel after making sure the controller works. Weāll see what happens.
As for the PnC cableā¦ that USB port you linked to would be great if I was dedicating the PnC cable to the stick, but I might want to use it for other controllers, too. Hence, why I want to extend the top port on the PCB to the outside of the case, so the PnC cable can remain intact. In theory, what Iām proposing shouldnāt affect anything, but I just want to make sure-- preferably before buying any unnecessary components (all I have are the PCBs, the FS3, and a soldering iron/wires/QDs/etc). Also, I want to get some Sanwa parts in there anyway, so Iāll probably hold off for now.
man, I did a triple pcb mod(gamecube), with common ground pcbs, the mayflash never worked that way. (switched to ps1 digital pcb+adapter in case I ever need to play on ps3)
Hi guys!
Iām looking to take advantage of that Amazon sale on Horiās. I have a 360, so my natural Hori option would be the EX-SE. Problem is, Iām not a big fan of Seimitsu sticks! That being said, I really like the Hori SA, and Iāve heard that it can be dual-modded so that itāll work with my 360.
How would I go about doing this? Is it just as simple as throwing a madcatz common ground in there to sit alongside the SAās stock guts? Will I need to solder if the padhack is already wired? Will I be able to have a āhome buttonā despite the fact that itās a PS3 stick that doesnāt actually have one? Will the dual mod compromise my stick (i.e., will it die quicker than it normally would?) Are there any disadvantages apart from having to spend dat cash-money?
I got all types of questions! haha! 
Soldering will be needed.
Unless you replace the Hori PCB with Cthulhu.
If include Imp, need to solder.
If no Imp, still need to solder DPDT Switch, unless it has Terminals for Quick Disconnect.
There is Home Button on HRAP 3.
For Xbox 360 Guide, solder to HRAP 3 Home.
Thank you, JDM!
Hi guys i just bought a 360 SE and would like to know if it could be dual mod with this PCB
or should i get a Chtulhu? solder is not a problem but want to know if that will work
Its common ground so you should be fine as long as you connect the vcc and the ground 
thanks for the answer, just waiting for my SE to arrive and will start working on ti :tup:
can anyone help me out pointing where 5v and gnd of te stock pcb? for both ps3 and xbox
Points are labeled on PCB.
i just tried soldering madcatz stock pcb together red-red black-black and tested it ps3 working but xbox only work for like 5 min then stop responding
Unplug it and then replug it. Does it work again for some time then shut off again? If so, itās probably just a loose or bad soldering job that needs to be touched up.