sounds nice to have but too complicated for me to try
Hi, just wondering if anyone can verify if this diagram is correct before I begin.
Bumping this and also asking if this wiring diagram for the stick will work with the one I made above.
@Demoninjaā¦
I canāt comment at all on the Imp as I really havenāt looked much into it. As for the rest, assuming common-ground on both PCBs, itās just a question of hooking up each signal to its counterpart - that applies to buttons and stick - and ensuring that you hook up V+ to V+ and GND to GND. Based on that, your diagram satisfies those reqs. Curious though, why not just jumper the stick from the SE to your PS3 pcb?
hth
V
Thanks for your reply. The only thing I was wondering is if the buttons were wired up properly. Also, what do you mean jumper the stick from the SE to my PS3 pcb? The base Iām using is a PS3 se.
An update to this. I did try soldering it again. It had no effect. I actually gave up on fixing it and just wired MK to the L1 button on the pad and mapped it to mk when I played on PS3. It worked fine for 3 or 4 days, and then the same thing happened on the L1 button. I havenāt had time to work on it, so I just disconnected that button from the pad altogether. Iāve got some time this weekend, tho, if anyone has any ideas.
It seems from your description that you intend to splice the wire harness for the stick. Just suggesting another way to go. Instead of cutting into the harness, just connect each signal from one pcb to the otherā¦so UP to UP, LEFT to LEFT, etcā¦ essentially the same concept as what you have going with the buttons. Just a thought.
@Dannkk ā¦
I probably should have asked this first, but are you certain the PS pad is CG?
So after your re-wire, you now have 2 btns on the PS that are dead?
Yea, itās common ground.
This is the pcb I have. Aside from resoldering the one button, I havenāt had time to try anything else. I think Iāll open it in a little bit here and see if the buttons are actually dead on the pcb or not. I wasnāt to worried about it at first, because I only use 6 buttons, but I canāt afford to lose anymore.
Thereās a pic of how itās wired, if it helps. Itās a mess, so if you canāt see, the leads from the buttons are all soldered to the QDs on the terminal strip, joystick leads are soldered directly to the stick, ground and power are on the bottom side of the madcatz pcb.
Just getting the CG issue put to rest.
Asking about the other btn, because if youāve got another fried button, your pcb is probably goinā funky. You might want to run you question past the pachacking thread.
V.
Iāve been having major problems with my dual mod for over 3 months now. Everything about it works fine, except for the fact that on the 360 I get a āplease reconnect your controller messageā randomly. It doesnāt happen often or frequently, but enough to piss me off. No I donāt need to replug the controller when it pops up. It just pops up and goes back into action about 2-3 seconds later.
Iām on a TE stick, which iāve replaced the original PCB twice and still had the same issue. I bought a Fightpad PCB to combat this issue yet Iām still having it. The only other problem I can think of goes to the imp, usb cable, or the xbox 360 usb portā¦ but the problem here is inconsistencyā¦ my friend networkingyuppie has these very same issues using an IMP and different madcatz pcbs, also different USB cables. ShinJN has these issues and heās using a DPDT switchā¦ Toodles has no idea what the problem might beā¦ I originally assumed the TE pcbs were crap, but now Iām having this problem on a fightpad pcb which has never been reported to have any issues.
I really donāt know what to do here. Iām positive everything is installed properlyā¦ The only thing I can think of at this point is that xbox 360 pcbs just canāt handle dual modding. I donāt believe my IMP is defective and I donāt believe 3 pcbs in a row are defective. I also donāt believe the USB cord has a problem since iāve switched between two different ones with the same result. I know there are people out there that say they donāt have an issue with it, but if both ShinJN and networkingyuppie have these same issues, then I donāt know what to believe. Itās gotten to the point where Iāve spent enough time and money to want to pull my hair out and just say screw dual modding. I wanted to dual mod because of the convenience of having the ability to play on either console at gatheringsā¦ but at this point I almost jus want to buy two TEās and get this frustration over with. One for ps3 and one for xboxā¦
Note that this problem ONLY occurs on the xbox 360.
couple things you can check if you havenāt already.
the few times iāve seen this issue pop up was a problem with the soldering to d+/d- so at least thatās 4 solder points you can thoroughly troubleshoot. youād want to check points at the 360 pcb and their corresponding points on the imp. also check the solder pads if they may be slightly lifted where just enough vibration would be enough disconnect and reconnect to the trace (sounds stupid but iāve seen it happen)
how you have the pcbs mounted to the stick base may also be causing pressure to the wiring where once opened you wouldnāt be able to tell that there is a problem. iāve come across sticks that work fine while the pcbs werenāt mounted and then after closing everything up and thinking itās all good something doesnāt work right.
another thing is to try to use stranded wire. solid wire can break inside the sleeve but still be slightly connected and something like a strong tap could cause it to disconnect momentarily. it would be hard to visually see if a solid wire is broken inside the sleeve. this can happen especially if you donāt have slack in your wiring. organizing things too tight or if you have too much slack and you are stressing your wiring against the pcb/case could cause a tiny break that wouldnāt be noticed visually or detected with a multimeter. (this is why you see alot of people with psone a series solderless hacks have problems because the need to use solid core wire and all the breakages from wire management stress)
i dunno man, just throwing some ideas out there. it always sucks to hear about when stuff doesnāt work the way it should.
iāve personally never had the disconnect problem with my personal dual modded sticks w/ madcatz 360 pcbs and iāve been using them since late 07 almost daily so you shouldnāt give up on dual mods just yet.
Iāve completely rewired the stick twice now. Iāve quadruple checked the connections by hand while the stick is plugged in and cannot recreate this issue.
The problem doesnāt occur with new pcbs until about a week later. Itās been an ongoing trend now. Put in a new pcb, works great for a week. then the issue pops up again.
Edit: After monkeying around with it i see the d- on the xbox pcb isnt very secure, but honestly it was fine before. I figure it was due to me monkeying around with it just now, but maybe the connection really wasnāt solid enough. Iāve been suspecting the original TE pcbs to be faulty, and didnāt expect the same thing to happen with the fightpad pcbs, but hopefully reconnecting that D- fixed the problem. I still donāt understand how the pcb can say please replug in the controller then replug itself back in after several hours of play.
Thanks for the advice, appreciate it.
I combined these two controllers, hooked the signals up to complementary signals, the +5 to the +3.3 and Ground from the PC controller to Ground on the ps1 then ground on ps1 to wiring harness. Works fine with the PC but with the PS2 everytime I use different directions various buttons get pressed as well (start, select, triangle). I tested it unplugged and there was no continuity between any of the signal parts of the pads. what exactly would cause this? Nothing weird happens with individual button presses (start only hits start, x only hits x etc).
Using the diagram posted by Norris on page 1 is it possible to just use the screw terminals on the cthulhu instead of a terminal strip? Iām using a Madcatz retro stick for my pad hack so can I just screw the wires from the corresponding buttons into the cthulhu, connect the vccās and grounds together and then just wire the cthulhu as normal? Obviously ill use separate USB cables for each pcb. I already started wiring it up like this Iām just not going to plug anything in until I get the all clear.
I believe that is what is referred to here in the forums as āpiggy-backingā, and yes, itās possibleā¦just make sure your wires seat properly into the terminals.
hth
V
Just checking in, is this the right way to connect the grounds?
You donāt need the third Ground wire.
Since one Ground wire connecting both PCB together, only a second one is needed to go Terminal Strip.
Can go from which PCB you want, to the Terminal Strip.
Okay so I only need one wire going to the terminal strip. Thanks a lot jdm all your posts are short and descriptive.
Can I ask a question, please?
I have a spare Mayflash stick & Iām thinking to dual mod it for XBox 360.
Iām absolutely positive that my wired 360 pad is the Non-Common ground one.
Well I understand that this thread is all about dual-modding pcbs with Common Grounds.
But on all my resources here, my Mayflash pcb & wired 360 pcb are all Non-Common Grounded.
So is it possible to dual mod the stick using both Mayflash pcb & wired 360 Non-Common pcb?