Wish I could suggest something! If the other buttons work, the stick wouldn’t exactly be useless, though Y is normally a pretty important button.
yeah… I assume you can find another solder point, I just don’t have the knowledge to guess at it…
Here is the fried point…
Here is the corresponding point on the back of the board…
Soldering to the back didn’t help… am I correct in assuming if you fry the front the back won’t work? Is the front totally gone or can it be cleaned up?
I checked the button to make sure it wasn’t something simple…
If there is another place on this board to solder to, please let me know…
any help appreciated… I’ve gotten sooooo close… :crybaby:
I assume you can scrape the trace and solder to that point. Never done it on a 360 pad, but done it PLENTY of times on psx pads. Should be the same deal
would the trace be on the left or right line coming out of the pad circle?
I’m going to have a master electrical tech at work look at it and point me in the right direction… I’m soooo close… lol
Both are traces, one for the the signal and the other for ground. I cant tell by looking at the pic which is which though. Im pretty sure that MET will be able to tell you exactly which one is the trace for the signal.
I know what you mean about so close, im just about done modding another fs3 for someone, just have to shave down some of the sanwa nuts to fit them into the cramped up stick. lol
I have never done anythink like this before, so sorry if I sound like a complete noob, but I am.
I am trying to understand how this is suppose to be done and using a map works best for me. In the above diagram, I see inputs from the stick and buttons going to the terminal switch, then the terminal switch outputs to both psb’s. But from there, what happens? Shouldnt both signals go into a switch of some sort? How is the stick suppose to know what console its plugged into? If someone can point me to a clear map of what goes where that would be great. For example… button input goes to terminal strip, terminal strip to pcb, pcb to usb etc. I will be using the cthultu board, but I am not using the IMP board. I will use a, dpdt switch instead. Also, is there another method without using the terminal strip? Again, I am a noob, so don’t assume I know anything about this when explaining it because I don’t! lol Please use the “this goes here and from there it goes here” method for me please. It would help me best. Thanks a lot.
in that particular diagram there is no switch, instead two power cords will be coming out of the joystick, which ever one is plugged in is the one thats gonna work. Never have them both plugged in at the same time. lol
Terminal strips make it easier to keep track of, make it alittle more organized and alot easier to adjust if you accidentally hooked the wrong signals up. But yes, you can just splice the wires instead of a strip. But the strip is so much easier.
I wanted to run one usb cable for both outputs using the dpdt switch to toggle between the two. So would i just run both cables from ps3 and 360 to the switch and the switch to the usb? I using the se fight stick. I see the thread, but the directions seem to assume that you have some kind of experience and I have none. This wou;d be my first ever mod.
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=182775&highlight=dual+modding
chack out my thread it should help out quite a bit
Alright, I made a thread about it and only got a few responses, one of which pointed me here. I’m trying to dual-mod my ps3 SE SF4 stick. I have the common ground 360 pad and have started soldering my signal wires to the pad. A few questions
When I make my ground, could I piggyback onto the ground in the wire ribbon that comes from the buttons terminal strip. Then to any ground point on the 360 pcb, to the joystick ground on my own installed terminal(only using for the joystick). And finally onto the ps3 pcb?
With the 5V and ground on the ps3 pcb, can I just wire to the visible side by piggybacking on the cables coming from the usb line, or do I have to take the pcb out and wire on the reverse?
And last. When I wire to my buttons signal wires at their terminal strip, can I just solder to the outside of the quick-disconnect or is there a better way(Using 22 gauge wire so I don’t think the solderless method is plausible)?
Thanks in advance
I’m trying to dual mod a Madcatz 4716 into a HRAP3 but the Madcatz pcb doesn’t seem to power up at all. The LEDs do not come on and Windows does not detect it. When I flip the DPDT switch to the other side my HRAP3 works fine.
I’ve checked the solder points and everything seems fine so I don’t know what’s wrong. Has anyone encountered this problem with the pcb not powering up at all? 5V and GND are connected between the 2 pcbs.
What might be the best way to test if the pcb is fried?
I’m planning on using a dual pcb on my new stick, with 2 separate cables like in the diagram posted by Norris. I also wanted to put an (always on) UV LED in there. Question is could I power it with the 5v wire running between the 2 pcb’s or do I need some sort of pcb for the led too? See my diagram below for a better explanation of what I’m thinking of doing.
You definitely do not want to do that. Take another 5V wire from the Cthulhu (voltage is the same in parallel), put a resistor and led and then finish it off at ground. The resistor should be 5 - led_vdrop / led_current. Watch out with UV LEDs and don’t mess up your vision.
I’m sorry but I’m not sure I understand do you mean like this?
Also could you explain a little more about the resistor I should use? maybe a URL to it?
That’s exactly how the circuit should be, for more information on a basic led circuit look at this page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED_circuit
For this circuit it doesn’t really matter if the resistor is before or after the LED, it just limits the current on the branch. Ultraviolet is near violet on the EM spectrum, so the voltage drop should be around 3.0v. Thus, the resistor you need will be something like 5V-3V/25mA = 80 Ohm. A 100 Ohm 1/4 watt resistor would likely be fine for what you want. http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintSiUaEnwQqpKnXB%2Fgu%2FR62c%3D
i got a question i finished my dual mod, everything appears fine except my directional inputs. i wired the pcb directionals to the jlf wire harness. i tested it and the directionals went crazy. mostly the left directional was stuck and the character kept moving back not allowing me to move anywhere. i cut them off the wire harness and everything was fine. then i solder them to the pcb from the bottom of the PCB (below where the harness connects to the pcb) to those soldering points. again same issue as before and sometimes wouldn’t even move at all. So i cut them again and everything went back to normal so the problem lays within where i’m suppose to connect my directionals and i know i’m connecting them properly because their labeled on the pcb. so can someone help me in where i’m suppose to solder the directionals because places aren’t working and the rest of the mod appears to be ok.i’m using a SE stick BTW.
Nevermind, I found my answer.
Hi…
I’m newbie here and this is my first post(Sorry if my english bad) 
Anyone in this forum already had a successful dual mod arcade stick with XBOX1 PCB?
Need a solution … last few days I try VSHG dual mod with Xbox1 PCB, so it can be use for Xbox1. I mod without a switch I use 2 cables (USB/PS3 and Xbox1). All the key input and solder are correct. Tested on PS3 and Xbox1 still working fine.
Here the problem. After I test in the dashboard(XBMC) Xbox1, all input from VSHG is okay. But after I try to play games or use the emulator Xbox1, there are input errors … Arcade stick input UP-Back continuously, the stick position is neutral position. But when I tested with CPS3 emulator on Xbox 1 input from VSHG is normal.
Hello, I have a couple quick question that I haven’t been able to find an answer to.
If I make a dual mod with a Cthulhu PS3/PC and a Common Ground Xbox 360 controller, using a DPDT switch, would I need to wire anything between the boards?
I think I would just be able to run a wire from each PCB into a terminal strip, right? Where I would have a wire for X from the Cthulhu, and A from the 360 going to the same spot on the strip.
Also, since I am getting an assembled Cthulhu board, can I just plug a usb cable into it, and then cut that down to connect to the xbox cable?
I also notice on a lot of common ground boards, there is a ground indicated on the dpad, and one of the buttons (Usually Y I’ve noticed). Would I just connect the ground wire to both those as well as into the ground for the buttons/stick, or would the ground for the stick and the buttons be separate?
I’m sorry if these questions have been answered already, I’ve been searching for a couple weeks now off an on for all the information I can find, as this is my first time doing anything like this, and I just couldn’t find enough information to make me comfortable wiring.
Thanks in advance:tup:
At a guess, I’d say you probably removed the analog sticks from the board, but didn’t tie them to neutral with resistors. Read up www.slagcoin.com for information on how to force the sticks to center with resistors.
If you play a lot of emulators, you should also look into an MC Cthulhu. You could remove both of your boards from the stick, fixing the analog problem with the xbox controller and the three button problem from the VSHG board (if you have the version with the three button problem, and also have access to the exntended commands needed by most Xbox1 emulators; the MC Cthulhu has button combinations available for simulating moving the analog sticks, clicking the analog sticks, etc.