Wow i cant even imagine how it will turn out…its gonna be a mess. Seriously for $20 cthulhu board, and a $10 used wired cg xbox controller, it will save you alot of time, effort, and headache dealing with all the wires to solder.
I dont mind soldering to pins.
it would seem that doing this way would allow me to hack any other pad and JUST PLUG IT IN (like x-arcade style with the adapters, or like the rj45 hack with the cthulu). maybe it’ll future-proof it, so WAY down the road with next-gen consoles it might save work lol.
also, the entire setup can be wireless.
i’m just wondering if there’s any flaw in my logic or anything i’m not thinking of that would make this solution not possible.
Thanks Lionheart…Did you basically solder everything like Akuma did here:
But to the part of the Cthulhu that’s not marked…Sorry…this will be my first time doing this mod and I don’t want to screw anything up.
Thanks!
everyone should get 360 versions of sticks for the cthu compatibility.
Another question: In the picture below…is the green and white (circled in red) connected in parallel to the green/white of the 360pcb or the new green/white soldered here and the original green/white is cut from the other side then connected to the dpst switch?
And the red/black (circled in green)…is this my ground and +5v that goes to the cthulhu?
Thanks!
Those points are made for soldering, not for QD or anything else.
I say ditch those buttons, they’re complete crap anyway. Buy some sanwa buttons or Korean buttons from Laugh and get some proper disconnects.
Yes i use those same points on the bottom of the TE board, however i use rows A-H and 1-9 on the cthulhu to keep the cables closer together. But that picture pretty much sums up how mine looks. Yes black and red goes to the cthulhu and the green and white goes to your dpdt switch. Also make sure your DPDT switch is ON/ON toggle not the ON/OFF/ON.
When checking for continuity between power and ground, is it normal to get around 20 OHMS resistance when putting the red probe on ground and the black probe on power, yet infinite resistance when putting the red probe on power and the black probe on ground?
Thanks for the advice, I went ahead and soldered to the points though. I’m planning on getting the buttons in the near future but the ones I have will do for now. Stick works great
4716 wired controller
I bought the Mad Catz 4716 wired controller for Xbox to use that pcb, I have removed the rumble motors and I was wondering if it would work if I just removed the trigger buttons (since I wont be using them) just leaving the 3 little solder points they each have on them not connected to anything?
Thanks
Does anyone here have a diagram or pic that shows what points are what on a 360 TE PCB?
Thanks!
Are both the late and early Mad Catz 360 controllers suitable for use in a multi-pcb mod?
Nevermind, I think I just figured out the answer to my own question. Is it correct that only the late version 360 madcatz controllers have a single common ground?
Does this refer to the area where PSX/GC/XBOX cable wires are soldered to? If so, does it matter which row is chosen when when wiring to a DPDT switch?
Yup. The D+ and D- points on the USB jack go through those columns. No, row doesn’t matter.
I’ve attached a GC and a PS controller per your instructables, will these connections create any conflict?
Only if they’re plugged in. 
If they’re not plugged in, the board won’t even know they exist.
(The cables are all straight through; there’s nothing inside of the cables, just wires going to ends. Just plugging in an extension cord won’t kick up your power bill unless there’s something plugged into the other end of the extension cord. The console cables on the Cthulhu are the same way; nothing happens unless they are plugged in.)
Alright, cool, so this is only for the USB cable connected systems anyway (PS3/360) and will only be a factor when either one is plugged in. Am I right there? The ability to use a GC or PSX cable hasn’t been nullified in any way. Is that the case? I took electronics in 10th grade, but that was more than ten years ago now, so forgive my endless ignorance.
You can have an Xbox, PSX, GC, and USB cable all soldered to the MC Cthulhu at once. As long as only one of them is ever plugged into something at a time, you’ll never have any problems.
If you dual the MC with a 360 pad using a DPDT switch, you’ll want the switch set to the PS3 side when using the other MC Cthulhu consoles (GC, Xbox, PSX). Your switch will be one side = 360, other side = everything else.
Quick question, any links to how exactly I would attach the 360 lines with the ps1 lines?