yeah there is a solder point on the back of the pcb to use the ps button as guide. if you have a the amazon edition hrap3 the solder point had a different location though.
i’ll get up some pics sometime this weekend on how to wire everything up, i got too many pics that need to be organized and labeled.
sweet! thanks man. I have the regular one from amazon.
you need a dpdt switch, it has 6 prongs.
you mount the switch wherever you want on your case.
the point of the switch is to choose which pcb’s data gets sent through the usb wire on to the console.
the middle 2 prongs you connect the d+ & d- from the usb cord coming out of the case. one set of prongs you connect the d+ & d- from the 360 pcb, the other set of prongs you connect the d+ & d- from the cthulhu.
the d+ and d- on the usb are the green and white wires coming from it. on the cthulhu, d+ and d- are labeled on the board and you have to attach your own wires to it. d+ and d- on the 360 pcb are the green and white wires coming off the 360 pcb.
wiring them to the switch would be something like this
-----{switch}--------------------
360 d+ | usb d+ | cthulhu d+
360 d- | usb d- | cthulhu d-
from my horrible example with the switch moved to the left it will let the data from the 360 move with through the usb cable.
----------------{switch}----------
360 d+ | usb d+ | cthulhu d+
360 d- | usb d- | cthulhu d-
from this horrible example data from the cthulhu will move through the usb cable.
sorry but i can’t explain it any better than this. the diagram you linked is for 2 cables coming out instead of one cable.
and oh yeah i’m not toodles either. :looney:
^^ So If i use both cables can I just skip the switch all together? I’m guessing no
Oh and thanks for explaining 
I think I get it now it has nothing to do with power but the data being sent to the console. So I have the wrong switch hmmm. So if I wanted 1 usb cable what would be diffrent?
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/359/stickjn3.png
I know it has been explained over and over, but I’m still not getting the diodes correctly am I? Anyone mind clarifying for me?
Looks fine to me, assuming the top-most two ‘blocks’ are representing the playstation and USB cables.
tried the mayflash pcb alone again and it works fine, tired it with the vcc from the ps2 connector,(with the oter pcbs) it still doesn’t…
is that possible that one other pcb is fine but 2 pcbs are drawing to much power from the ps2 pcb ? would a ps1 pcb work for sure?
Edit: okay, I played around to get what was the deal with the mayflash pcb… never got it so I hacked a first gen ps1 sony controller this afternoon and threw it in my modded HRAP EX, worked like a charm to hell with ps3 support \o/
thanks again everybody !
Perfectly clear.
I’m looking to wire up a PS3 pcb to my most recent mod, and I was told last week that it’s possible to have that and a 360 pcb running through a single USB cable.
Thanks for this info…
ok, so here are the pics of my dual pcb seimitsu with sanwa buttons stick…
i used a sony scph 1200 m pcb and a madcatz xbox360 arcade stick pcb and it works like a charm… with this setup and some converters i am able to use this stick (and am using it) on a ps1, ps2, ps3, gamecube, wii, pc and xbox360…
http://www.shrani.si/t/f/Kd/3fx9NAru/img2264.jpg
http://www.shrani.si/t/1/ni/1XZoLq1z/img2265.jpg
http://www.shrani.si/t/3w/lB/3MXdzVtq/img2266.jpg
http://www.shrani.si/t/l/2B/4nDp8Rt7/img2267.jpg
thnx for the info people :tup:
Looks great. What kind of case is that? I’m on the hunt for something cheap for a Seimitsu stick.
well its a “custom” made case… where custom means some pretty crappy cut out wood and then glued/screwed togheter, but hey it works - its the joystick/buttons parts that matter (to me taht is)
ok well thanks everybody i got around to dongi my project this weekend. i put new buttons and joystick in it and cthulhu and the mad catz joystick in there. here are some pics
i’m goint to fill in with the wood putty around the switch, ten paint it black and put a ps3 sticker on one side and an xbox360 sticker on the other. but so far it works, going to test it out in a fighter soon here.
thanks to everyone on these boards who helped point me in the right direction
Read through most of this thread as it seems to be the most valid place for input on what I am trying to do.
I am building an Arcade CP
2 players - 7 buttons each (1 start, 6 action)
Its going to my PC with a I-PAC Value via USB
I also really wanted to get back in on the MVC2 action as I used to play the hell out of that game on my Dreamcast, so I committed to also making this CP work for DC.
According to the beginning of this thread you pretty much just split the button signal & ground between the two different PCB’s and wire the PCB Grounds and Voltage together
It also says NEVER have them both plugged in at the same time. (without a switch or diodes)
Thats my issue, my computer connection will always be on and always be active, the Dreamcast will only be on when I turn on the system.
So what is the best method to be able to have them both plugged in?
Im guessing a switch, and if thats the case can somebody link me some nice switches for this kind of job? I do not like the idea of the big ol’ DB-25 switch but at least its simple to use. This is a stationary CP under my desk cover not a portable modular joysick like what most of you are building so its kind of a waist to go through the trouble of those neart project boxes with DB connectors on them. I just need something that can mount to the underside of a board easy and be cheap, easy, and effective.
I picked up pieces of info that make it look like I only need a small switch for the ground & voltage of the PCB’s and not an entire DB25 worth of connections for each PCB?
In reference to this pic
I am debating converting my existing 360 stick to multi system…
see here
Right so… Assuming i go the cthulu board route. Will I have to do any direct soldering between boards? Being that there are 4 lines in the USB cord (ground/5V/D+/D-) can I just split all 4 wires… run the red and ground to both boards respectively and take the D+ and D- and feed that into the switch to toggle between them? I have no problem cutting into the USB cord wires, but it would be much easier if i could avoid soldering anything else to my 360 gamepad.
Thanks
Nice diagram!!! I was looking for one of those too. I just did this mod to my stick last night but it was the other way around. PS3 to 360 with the Cthulhu and a Madcatz board. I don’t think you should have to solder the 360 board anymore just the switch and the Cthulhu usb connections. I did mine a little different but not sure if it makes any difference. I put all the data power and ground on the switch then connected the power and ground on the boards together through the terminal strip. I put it all in a project box it turned out pretty clean. I did all my testing on my old laptop just in case I screwed up. But everything worked perfect except I had my start and home buttons crossed on the Cthulhu board. I I’ll take pics and post tomorrow so people will have something to compare to. Once again thanks to everyone that helped out Toodles I couldn’t have done this with out you and your wonderful Cthulhu board - Much Respect
I gotta keep tabs on this thread since I’m still looking for a hrap3 + 360 pcb solution.
The Cthulhu board + 360 pcb would suffice, correct?
Here is a ghetto diagram I made since I had some confusion and had to look at 2-3 tutorials/diagrams to finally get mine. I used a mad catz xbox360 joystick and a cthulhu. Any questions in regards to my diagram I can answer since that is exactly the wiring schematic i did for mine, but other than that i may not be able to help since i’m not an elextrical engineer or anything 
Take a peek at some of the finished multi-pcb jobbers using the Cthulhu. I can’t help too much on this, but most folks connect the second 360 pcb to the Cthulhu using the smaller unlabelled holes on the end opposite of the Cthulhu, so the buttons and stick would go only to the screw terminals. Seems neater that way.
Is there a reason people use the switch do swap between both D+/D- lines? wouldn’t it be better to do it to the 5v/ground so there isn’t power running to the board you aren’t using?
Here is how I think it could work in mine… and still leave me easy ways to remove any of the buttons/boards/USB cable since they all run through junctions.
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/9061/ps3modwh4.jpg
This would also give me a good opportunity to add a longer USB cable
Icewilly, while I wondered the same thing as you, that’s not the case.
It seems that the PS3 and Xbox360 PCB’s don’t actually turn on unless they get both a power AND data signal. I did not realize this until I wired up my Xbox360 and PS3 controller and tried it out.
When I have the switch to the Xbox360 side and have it plugged into the Xbox360, the lights come on on the controller in the quadrants.
When I have the switch to the PS3 side and have it plugged into the Xbox360, no lights come on at all on the Xbox360 PCB.
On the other hand, I also put it on the Xbox360 side but plugged it into my PS3, and the Xbox360 PCB turns on but just keeps on blinking and never finds a quadrant.
So it seems that the PCB’s don’t actually turn on, even though they are always getting a power signal to them. It requires the power AND data in order to actual turn on and use power.
At least that is from my experience, but I’m also not anywhere near knowledgeable about this stuff as some others on this board are.
