2 PCB's in one stick - Possible?

[Toodles]

for bencao

[Kyle]

For B and Y, will I have to run a ground from the Xbox360 PCB B to the corresponding joystick button, and then run that to the corresponding Y button as well? And then for X and A, i’ll have to run another wire from the Xbox360 PCB ground to the X arcade button, and then run that to the A arcade button? And then so on for all of the other “pairs” of grounds?

Whereas with the newer Xbox360 controllers, you can share the ground among all the joystick buttons?

Sorry for the newb questions, I’m just not very educated about exactly how electronics and circuitry works

You’ll have two wires for each button/direction instead of just one and a single ground. See if this tutorial helps since he’s using the same controller.

[purbeast]

You’ll have two wires for each button/direction instead of just one and a single ground. See if this tutorial helps since he’s using the same controller.

LOL, that is the tutorial I wrote hahaha!

However when I did it I was doing sloppy w/the ground wiring and really don’t have electronics experience. I don’t think the way I wired that up in that tutorial is the ideal way.

That’s actually the exact case and inside of the controller I will be using lol, just adding the Cthulhu to it and a switch.

[Kyle]

LOL, that is the tutorial I wrote hahaha!

However when I did it I was doing sloppy w/the ground wiring and really don’t have electronics experience. I don’t think the way I wired that up in that tutorial is the ideal way.

That’s actually the exact case and inside of the controller I will be using lol, just adding the Cthulhu to it and a switch.

Haha, I’ll quit whoring it out then. I always just assumed that diagram was easier to make sense of than the one on Slagcoin.

You have the right idea thought. If it isn’t common ground each button gets a signal and a ground. With a common ground pad there’s just a single wire that daisy chains around to all of the buttons.

If you’re using a SFAC stick you can check this out. It’s using a common ground pad as its basis though.

[purbeast]

Haha, I’ll quit whoring it out then. I always just assumed that diagram was easier to make sense of than the one on Slagcoin.

You have the right idea thought. If it isn’t common ground each button gets a signal and a ground. With a common ground pad there’s just a single wire that daisy chains around to all of the buttons.

If you’re using a SFAC stick you can check this out. It’s using a common ground pad as its basis though.

Well that way I did in the tutorial DOES work, however I’m going to try and get this working with a Cthulhu board as well, where I think they should all be on the same ground.

I think I am following.

I think part of my problem and confusion is the wording. On the controller I have, the diagram shows like 6 or 7 different COMMON colors, but on the ones that look like you can daisy chain, while they all share a “common ground”, there is no COMMON label like the other pictures.

What I’m assuming from those diagrams with the colored COMMON labels, is that any of the points with a PINK COMMON can only be grounded by another button that also has a PINK COMMON color, and so on and so on for all of the other colors.

And if this is the case, can I connect say a ground from all 7 different COMMON colored points to 1 terminal point, and then daisy chain that around? Or is that not how it works?

Can anyone verify that my thoughts are correct or wrong?

[Kyle]

K, that should be your real question for Toodles then. Can his non-CG MS controller play nicely with a Cthulhu in a dual mod environment? I’m guessing it would need to be modified like he outlined in a few posts back. You’d probably have an easier time picking up a Mad Catz pad to use instead.

[Toodles]

K, that should be your real question for Toodles then. Can his non-CG MS controller play nicely with a Cthulhu in a dual mod environment? I’m guessing it would need to be modified like he outlined in a few posts back. You’d probably have an easier time picking up a Mad Catz pad to use instead.

Nope, dual modding anything requires all of the pcb’s to be common ground. That one pictured is not. It is possible to convert it to common ground using the chips I mentioned, but that’s more advanced than a regular dual mod is and isn’t recommended. Bencao’s done a lot of electrical work and can handle it easily.

pubeast, that pad won’t work. Hunt down a common ground MadCatz pad.

[purbeast]

Toodles thanks for the clarification. With that said, I’m going to go pick up this after work today.

http://www.gamestop.com/Catalog/ProductDetails.aspx?product_id=61832

So that one looks to have a common ground and is only $10 so it will do the job

Thanks for all the replies in this thread it’s helped me understand what is going on (although not full yet lol).

Oh one more quick question for now … are there any specific screws you recommend to screw down the PCB’s to the inside of the case, that aren’t thick enough to atually go all the way through the wood, but good enough to hold it down?

[Toodles]

The Cthulhu uses #4 sizes screws/bolts through the mounting holes. You can probably make a #6 size screw fit, but you’ll have to work it. Just go to a hardware store, look for a #4 or #6 size screw that will go into your material but isn’t long enough to poke out.

[purbeast]

Thanks for the replies toodles, this is making it easier for me so that I can have everything ready for when my parts hopefully arrive on saturday

[Kyle]

http://www.gamestop.com/Catalog/ProductDetails.aspx?product_id=61832

So that one looks to have a common ground and is only $10 so it will do the job

Get that one if you can. They’re a pleasure to work with. Otherwise you can get one of these for $25 new. It will probably be the 2008 edition.

[purbeast]

Get that one if you can. They’re a pleasure to work with. Otherwise you can get one of these for $25 new. It will probably be the 2008 edition.

It says they are in stock at all 4 gamestops i have w/in like 1 mile of my house so I should find one heh.

I noticed on slagcoin website with all the PCB diagrams that it lists that one as the LATE version and only shows that one.

Should I be worried that I may get an “early” version? Or are they all “late” versions?

[Kyle]

I haven’t seen any posts from people saying their Arcade didn’t match the diagram. I wouldn’t worry about it.

[purbeast]

Cool well I picked up one last night at gamestop brand new for $10. I haven’t ripped it apart yet but will this weekend. Wonder if these 3 XBLA game tokens still work cause it says they expired in 08 lol, but I’ll have to check them out this weekend too!

Thanks for the heads up on that controller!

[Kyle]

You are missing out on absolutely nothing if they did expire. Frogger and Timepilot are lame. The other game is like one you’d see on a Flash website and is fun for all of a minute or two. They should have stepped it up and bundled Pac-Man and Galaga.

[Shin_Kaz]

Hi everybody, I wanted to thank evryone who contributed here because this thread as been a great help in the triple pcb mod I just finished>

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/3840/dsc00066an4.th.jpg http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/3353/dsc00067ot9.th.jpg http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/9012/dsc00068wd2.th.jpg

it’s my first arcade stick mod so please be gentle in you comments ;p
(I didn’t bother about use fuses to be safe, but I might in the future)

I didn’t go the UPCB way because I had all the right pcb’s lying around, and didn’t care that much about SSBB.
I was much more work and time consuming than I though so if it’s your first mod and want more that dual systems support, I would strongly recommand UPCB.

I used :

• a madcatz arcade controller pcb (the atari looking one) and the trigger hack with 100Kohms worked perfect for me(I even managed to hack the old gen mic and guide btn from the HRAPEX to work) (for info, on the guide btn pcb: 1 is led1+, 3 is led1-, 6 is Guide+ and 7 Guide -)

• a GC DOL-003 (original controler) which turned out to be a bitch to hack START, B, A, Y, X point are actually quite small (those under the epoxy(?)), I didn’t the trigger to work either (solder L&R points from the slagcoin diagram but no luck… any ideas ?)

• a mayflash pre-assembled ps2/ps3 pcb.

360 and GC (just tried Tatsunoko vs capcom on Wii) work perfectly, but ps2/usb support is completely fucked up, on ps2 no direction (any ideas ?)
(so I guess that yes, VCCs and Gnds are wired correctly, plus nor the controller port of my ps2 nor my pc usb’s got fried so it must be something else)

I tested 360, ps2 and then GC alone first, all 3 were working perfectly.
thanks again.

[Toodles]

You even wired up the LEDs for the Xbox player number? That’s a very nice touch! I’m guessing you rewired the headset jack the same way. Great job.
As for your PS2 and USB problems, it most likely has to do with the mayflash pcb you’re using. Sadly, I’ve never used one before nor seen any detailed information on it, so I can’t really be of any help.

(Is this a bad time to mention you could replace two of those board with an MC Cthulhu?

[Shin_Kaz]

well not really, I just connected the Led1+ to VCC and the - to gnd, same with 6 and 7 for the actual X-guide btn press. (at least that was the led is on even when connected to GC/ps2)
I guess I could hack it for the actual player number, but I’m too lazy to find the right soldering points on the madcatz arcade controller… I was thinking about wiring the 4leds to the 4 stick directions, but the result would have been awkward looking as the 360 leds are diagonals not real vertical/horizontal.

As for the mic, i just cut the small cord between the main pcb and mic mini pcb, trimmed it(the mini pcb) to fit inside the HRAP housing, then soldered the connection on both sides.

Honestly, yeah, I think the mayflash pcb is at fault here… I mean even if it’s my first mod, I really checked everything every step of the way, and the result is that 360 and GC worked perfectly at the first try, so there’s really no reason I could think of why the mayflash is f*cking up that much… (I check with a multimeter, there so weird stuff going on, like so minus values on the ps2 pcb connection while ps3/usb is connected to the pc…)
could that be I used the wrong VCC ?(should I use the ps2 one?) I check when the pcb alone was connected to the ps2 or pc, both vcc’s (ps2 connection and usb connection) were +3 or 5, so I assume it wouldn’t matter if I’d solder VCC to either the ps2 or pc connection…

as for chtulhu, I’m really broke now haha, how much would one go for ? (mounted or not mounted. I’m in germany), what’s the point of chtulhu, again ? It would give me ps3 support and I’d have to add a ps1/2 only pcb, right ? what’s the chip on it for ?

Thing is, I really don’t need ps3 for now, and I really wanted ps2 support, so I could just use a diying ps2 controller or a ps1 gen1 controller I might find for 5-8?.
but I might reconsider about getting a chtulhu later. (or a upcb, as it sounds more interesting to me)

or is there a way I could hack the mayflash pcb for ps2 support only ?

[NewGen]

i used a dremel with cutting disc to make the hole for the switch and a 1/8" bit to make the holes for the small screws.

to make the hole for the switch really depends on the shape of the switch you buy. some are round, some are rectangular. the ones i use are called heavy duty dpdt slide switch from radioshack. the screws used are #4-40 x 3/8" round head slotted from home depot.

usually what i’ll do is cut the hole to mount the switch, then mount the switch and just use the screw holes from the switch as guides to drill the holes through the case.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n5/akuma001/PICT0748.jpg

thanks for the info akuma001, i’ve got the exact same toggle switch, did you get the home button to be the guide button as well? could you tell me where to solder onto the home button? and could you tell me which wires on the pcb are the positive charges? my friend is busy and i don’t have a multimeter but i have everything else to make this mod.

[VOLTECH]

Toodles sorry about being so thick headed about this but if I do this mod seen below (with your board and the madkatz board) where do I put the switch? I have a 2 way switch with 3 prongs sorta looks like this ( l|l ) I would assume that the long one in the middle is where I connect the power in and the prongs to the left and right are my 2 choices I can select from. Would this go between the red power cable seen in the pic and where do I even get a third cable or where does it go? I’m so confused :looney: