Can anybody point me to the DB25 connectors on digikey that have the easy to solder connections. The small ones that you can mount to a project box.
And I also need a good place for terminal strips (terminal blocks) and project boxes. Id like to get it all from one place.
Any ideas/links?
I think I have the setup figured out
Arcade CP wired to a DB25 Female connector that will be mounted to the under side of my CP.
A Male to Male cable will take it to the 4 way switch I got off monoprice.
The output from the switch will go to the project boxes that contain the encoder for that system, the Switch has all female DB25 connections so I will be using short 3ft Male to Male cables to connect to the project boxes that will be interfaced with a soldered female DB25 connector.
Currently one will be a I-Pac Value going out to my PC via a USB A-B cable.
The other will be two hacked dreamcast controllers going to the dreamcast. I have not decided yet if i want the cords sticking out of the project boxes, or if I will cut the cord short and just use the 6ft extension cables I got to interface them to the system instead (gives me a break point and makes it a bit nicer IMO.
So the questions I have are places & part#'s for the few remaining parts I need.
I read that the official DC pads have lag in the shoulder buttons and I just wanted to double check and see if that rumor was true. I had gotten 4 of them off ebay before I found any of the madcatz controllers and would rather put them to use and get some much needed soldering practice.
I was just wondering (sorry if its been answered before) but instead of soldering the voltage and grounds of each pcb directly to each other couldnāt you just connect them both to the terminal strip at the same point. like the 2 voltages to same point on the terminal strip and the 2 grounds to the same point on the strip. thanks
Sure, that should work fine, especially if going the PS3+Xbox360 route with the DPDT switch. If youāre using a configuration that has multiple cord coming out the back, Iād recommend that you connect a diode from the power line of each cable, and then connecting the āsafeā end of the diodes into the terminal strip, and the two wires going to power the boards from the terminal strip.
I just finished dualāing my HRAP 2: SA.
Iāll have pics tomorrow.
I just used the common ground off of the joystick since it was already grounded by the pcb and also just bridge the grounding so now I can play PS2/PS3 (with InPin) and Xbox 360.
Messy because I forgot t measure my wires and ended up having some shorter than they were supposed to beā¦
The common ground on the HRAP 2 SA is labeled as āCOMMā on the microswitches and the +5v is labeled as āONā or āNOā depending how you look at it. Going from what some people have said on this board and in this thread, the ground should be bridged, right? Thatās why I did this
After I soldered the common ground, bridged it with the common ground on my (MadCatz Arcade Joystick) Xbox 360 PCB, and soldered all the buttons, guide, and bumpers (left the triggers neutral no need for them in SF4āsee pic for directional and common ground on 360 PCB),
I soldered the directional button wire to the corresponding microswitches labeled"ON" or āNOā in order to get the signal of that direction to the 360 PCB. (Make sure you solder the CORRECT direction on the joystick to the SAME direction on the PCB or else you have to do it again until you get the right directions)
I just slid the corresponding button to the corresponding arcade stick button like so after tinning (adding a little solder to the tips of the wiresāit helped them stay in the crimped connecters)
Also donāt forget to turn the 360 on after you completed soldering all the buttons you are going to be using because if you donāt you might get an āAuto-Fireā connection going on. (You have to do this if you donāt have a multimeter and you accidentally connected the 360 PCP button to the ground of the arcade button)
Iām going to clean this up some, donāt worry, I just have to figure out how to get the Xbox 360 PCB USB cable out through somewhat close as the PS2 cable is because right now it sticks out from the top.
Sticks out like this:
And my button layout:
(The reason I have the back button to the one next to heavy kick is because I didnāt want to have a sensitive button be the guide or start because with a touch I could set it off. During a match, the Back button doesnāt do anything and I need it for when Iām in training mode and donāt know how to do a certain move and change the notation.)
1.- Can this dual-PCB mod be done with a MS wired 360 pad instead of a MadCatz? There arenāt MadCatz pads available here, only MS, which I can get for about $25 used.
2.- Whatās this stuff about leaving the triggers on āneutralā?
Iām trying to do a dual PCB mod on an Agetec with an XBox 360 common ground pad and the original Agetec PCB.
I canāt seem to find any diagrams for the Agetec PCB for the VCC. I also read on this post by fubarduck that there has to be a switch for the DC PCB to work? Why is that exactly and what would I have to do. Sorry, Iām a newbie to any sort of electronics work.
It can be done, itās just a little more in depth in terms of skill. Itās going to be annoying for you if you arenāt too great at soldering.
Leaving triggers on neutral basically means not in use. People do this because in some if not most fighters, those are not used or are BEHIND/UNDER the PCB when soldering to, so since you donāt NEED to use those (only 6 buttons are usually used) then the bumpers/L1-L2, RB-LB will do just as fine. Besides, you can map the buttons in controller config. within the game.
Ok, iāve read though the thread, and for the most part, i was lostā¦ iāve been considering building a custom stick, and if i did, i would want to put a cthulhu and some 360 pcb in it.
Im wondering though, what im considering doing is, and ill explain as best i can:
wire the buttons/joystick to a terminal. 2 wires from each terminal to corresponding points on the pcbs. put a usb b <> female usb b on the cthulhu, and let that be an external connection. then wire another usb<> female usb b, as a 2nd external connection.
so if i wanted to use it with my ps3, i could plug a usb cable into the one wired to the cthulhu. and just swap it for the 360.
is this something that would work? or is there a lot more involved than what im thinking?
thanks to anyone for any help, and sorry if there is some great technical explanation as to why this will/will not work, as i said, most of it is greek to me.
What are the extra steps required? Iām not great at soldering, but I donāt have a load of cash either, so Iād like to see if it would be easier going with the original pad route or importing another one.
Also, I have a SoulCalibur 2 Hori stick, already modded with its default PCB and Sanwa parts (JLF and buttons). I love the size and weight of it, but from the looks of it, it will be really hard to dual-pcb it, due to lack of space. Iāll post a couple pics of the empty shell and after that, with the stick and buttons mounted. Iāll appreciate every suggestion that you could give me. Iāve thought about removing the holed cylinders, but those give support to the overall frame of the stick.
To remove rust, well, that isnāt corroding anything, but rather just oxidizing out of metal particles in there, then just a simple soap and clothe āsponge bathā would do the trick if you could get the case clean first.
If the original stick PCB still works, you are going to have to put all the original wires were they were when you got the stick, if you canāt or donāt remember, and donāt want to solder/de-solder, then you might have to go the Chtulu + 360 PC route because I donāt know where you could find a schematic to find that specific Hori stickās PCB wiring diagrams.
If everything CAN go back to itās original way (wires where they need to go) then, you can do what I did and just somehow fit a 360 PCB in where there may be space or you might have to take those little cylindrical things (or just one) in order to fit it in there.
Let us know what you decide on doing or if you have anymore questions.
Oh, I used the original PCB (PS2 Hori) for a while, I just removed it yesterday, so I still have it, and I know where everything goes on it but there are a couple of problems there.
1.- Itās too big.
2.- It isnāt a documented PCB, so I donāt know where the common ground and voltage soldering points are, just as you say.
For the reasons above, Iām planning to replace it for a PS1 PCB, which is a lot smaller. The ideas has always been to have a dual PS1/360 stick, and buy a good adapter (Inpin/Pelican) to use it on PS3. it should work, after all. I donāt have currently a 360 stick, but Iād like to know why a MadCatz (which arenāt available here at all) is actually easier to work with than with a MS 360 wired pad PCB.
The reason that MadCatz controllers are easier to use is because they have better defined signal points, easier to solder onto without making mistakes, an isnāt as much an eyesore as compared to the official M 360 controllers. In those the points are really small and (I THINK) the controllers donāt share a common ground so that means that you would have to solder both a ground AND the signal piece to EACH button on the controller, which is an extensive and sometimes annoyingly frustrating process to undertake unless you are a good solderer.
My HRAP 2: SA wasnāt documented when I did mine (I couldnāt find a diagram for its PCB). SOOOOOO
I just looked at the joystick and saw that it had a common ground so the ground MUST be shared through all of its components. I stated where the common ground is up in the first picture. Although the PCBs are different they should all share somewhat the same characteristics. Just go by what I said up there and you should be fine in regards to the common ground and the signals.
