I’ve used it successfully with this:
Not sure how the button config translates though, you might have to remap buttons in the games. I’m not 100% sure, but IIRC, I’ve used my DC converter (Total Control Plus) just fine with it too.
It works, yes… but what about the lag caused?
I just did a quick test to try compatibility, didn’t proper playtest. So, there’s lag out the ass then?
Try doing some combos in KoF or Guilty Gear and you tell me.
What we know:
-there’s a zero delay basic pcb that has PC-PS3 compatibility, no home button for PS3 but analog-digital toggle for PC and only 12 playable buttons
-there’s a revised zero delay PCB dubbed “rematch” unofficially by a seller in the past but other than him neither the company who made them nor the other sellers call it “rematch”. Most chinese sellers call it “100% zero delay” . Main upgrades are additional playable button, PS2 compatibility with according Y
usb-playstation2 cable and home button for PS3(same button as digital/analog port for PC)
What most probably do not know:
- both boards are often sold under the “chanki” brand name (all sorts of arcade hardware clones,variants & pcb encoders etc) who also offersanother version of “zero delay " PCB in between the basic pcb and the revised “rematch/100%” pcb. It’s a LED edition, with 3 pin ports for the led driven buttons(12) but no joystick lighting option apparently nor PS2 or PS3 compatibility, the encoder is actually printed with the label " USB led-joystick” and is around 17-18 bucks.
After looking for a while it seems there is also under “bao” (bao lian? ) and “timeharvest” (THT) brand names ( both known in the chinese arcade/ gaming industry) a USB/XBOX-360 encoder pcb for sale featuring a mic and headphone port, no PS3 compatibility …and offers also… a 360/PS3/USB board. This last pcb seems to be built on the exact same pcb basis as the other zero delay encoders with extra ports ( and xbox360 compat), the timeharvest version I saw had even a daughterboard plugged in and a switching cabling option, but the seller didn’t explain anything about this extra board extension nor anything about how the switching actually occurs.
The bad news:
-the ps3/xbox360/ usb encoders sold under timeharvest & bao brands are outrageously high in price for what they are, 60-70 bucks shipping included, for that price one could afford specialty “custom” multi console boards sold on arcade modding websites already.
Only if the price goes down to the 15-25 dollar range should this OEM encoder be worth the trouble . Same thing for the “x-360/USb joystick” encoder, way too high in price for what it is, not even worth mentioning the number.
anyone know what the extra “right” is for? have the one for .187 connections, so the non sanwa one.
Seems to be a redundant, I just ignored it.
So I ordered this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/261316847969?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 and it didn’t come with instructions or anything. So I plug it in and none of the buttons or motions are registering. Even my PC doesn’t recognize when I plug it in. Any help?
Also the blue middle light turns on when I plug it in either my PS2 or PC.
Look that item up from other sellers, most of them have a wiring guide in the item description.
If you can’t straighten it out from there, post pictures of your wiring.
I finally figured it out, thanks for your willingness to help Pres. Camacho!
No problem, I see that as the purpose of this board.
So where are people getting these from now a days? ebay?
Yeah
I’ve noticed that on the similar encoder for PC it has a 5 volt connection for LED push buttons so wondering has anyone figured a way to wire LED push buttons on 5 or 12 volts from the PCB/ encoder?
I’m getting phantom inputs on my No-Delay board 
Only seems to happen when I leave it at neutral.
Try using the individual direction cables rather than the 5-pin (or vice versa, depending on which you’re currently using). If you’re already using .187 connections, is there any chance the un-shielded disconnects are hitting ground somewhere?
It was giving me random button inputs (not direction inputs) after a few seconds of no inputs.
I’ve unplugged the PS2 connector and it seems to be okay now.
Weird, hopefully the problem stays away.
anyone know where i can just buy the ps2/ps3 cable for the zd encoder? Mine has frayed some exposing the wires underneath and although it still works perfectly i would like to have a backup just in case.